Jeep Wrangler TJ Performance PCM Tuning

Front axle still off center

Nicholas

Nicholas

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Joined
Aug 14, 2017
Messages
726
Location
Tampa, FL, United States
So ever since I got my adjustable RC front track bar to attempt to quote on quote center my axle it didn’t make a difference with my lift because I guess I didn’t screw it out enough so after that when installing my 2.5 lift I tried turning it another like 5 times around, dropped the axle seemed straight and tightened it back up. Then after a couple months it seemed to just go back to where it was? Anyone have an idea of what it could be, what other aspects could contribute to an off center axle? It sits about a centimeter or two out. One once told me it has something to do with engine weight


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Nicholas said:
So ever since I got my adjustable RC front track bar to attempt to quote on quote center my axle it didn’t make a difference with my lift because I guess I didn’t screw it out enough so after that when installing my 2.5 lift I tried turning it another like 5 times around, dropped the axle seemed straight and tightened it back up. Then after a couple months it seemed to just go back to where it was? Anyone have an idea of what it could be, what other aspects could contribute to an off center axle? It sits about a centimeter or two out. One once told me it has something to do with engine weight


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Click to expand...
Spring sagging will effect axle center. As the springs settle down the distance from mount points will change.To what degree i have no idea. But 1cm does not sound like a huge change.
 
Adjusting the track bar so the axle is simpler than may be suspected. With the tires on the ground, disconnect the adjustable length track bar. Between the forces placed between the frame and axle by the springs and control arms, the axle will tend to self-center itself. You can assist it by standing on the bumper and using your weight to 'jounce' the frame up & down to further assist it so the axle can self-center itself.

Measuring from the fenders to the outer edges of the tires should confirm the axle is centered well enough. Then adjust the length of the track bar so its bolt holes align with the mounting brackets and insert the bolts. Tighten them and you're done.
 
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Boinked said:
Spring sagging will effect axle center. As the springs settle down the distance from mount points will change.To what degree i have no idea. But 1cm does not sound like a huge change.
Click to expand...

Yeah that sounds about right. And yeah I’d assume about a centimeter maybe one and a half bc it looks about 2 or so off one end so about a centimeter. I’ve always ignored it and never thought of it as a big deal just was seeing if I could get opinions



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Jerry Bransford said:
Adjusting the track bar so the axle is simpler than may be suspected. With the tires on the ground, disconnect the adjustable length track bar. Between the forces placed between the frame and axle by the springs and control arms, the axle will tend to self-center itself. You can assist it by standing on the bumper and using your weight to 'jounce' the frame up & down to further assist it so the axle can self-center itself.

Measuring from the fenders to the outer edges of the tires should confirm the axle is centered well enough. Then adjust the length of the track bar so its bolt holes align with the mounting brackets and insert the bolts. Tighten them and you're done.
Click to expand...

I’ve just payed so much for alignments I almost don’t want to touch it, if it bothered me more i guess I might as well, bc I assume even if u touch the track bar a tad you’d need to re align everything


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Nicholas said:
I’ve just payed so much for alignments I almost don’t want to touch it, if it bothered me more i guess I might as well, bc I assume even if u touch the track bar a tad you’d need to re align everything


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My Jeep has only been given tape measure alignments. It takes less than 15 minutes.
 
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Nicholas said:
I’ve just payed so much for alignments I almost don’t want to touch it, if it bothered me more i guess I might as well, bc I assume even if u touch the track bar a tad you’d need to re align everything


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Click to expand...

I feel you, I came from building a YJ. Just throw some leafs in and adjust toe and you're done. I agree these tj's are tedious, but once you get it close you will be happy. I think I am in the same boat. I put in new springs last year and I think they have settled as my front is over almost a 1/2 inch now and it was perfect using @Jerry Bransford's method he posted earlier. Now with some miles on the spring I think I need to try it again, and it will probably be good for a long time. Honestly a 1/2 inch isn't really noticeable with the eye, but I am trying to conquer a minor steering issue is the only reason I found it.
 
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How??
Click to expand...

I just used my Longacre plates tonight. They worked real nice. For a one man operation, they have a magnet on the one plate to hold the tape measures.

This thread an several others made me check my axle center. Sure enough it was not centered (maybe 1/2" off per my fender flairs. I've been driving it like this since the Zone lift kit was installed. It drove nice and steered well, but I couldn't leave well enough alone. After choosing my reference points and measuring twice, I'm within 1mm of center.

I bought a JKS adjustable track bar and installed it tonight. It took about 3 hours working slowly, this included readjusting my toe-in to 1/8" and re-centering the steering wheel. My biggest headache was getting the old track bar off. I didn't have a ball joint separating tool. $12 and a quick trip to the auto parts store took care of that problem.
 
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LukesfirstJeep said:
I just used my Longacre plates tonight. They worked real nice. For a one man operation, they have a magnet on the one plate to hold the tape measures.

This thread an several others made me check my axle center. Sure enough it was not centered (maybe 1/2" off per my fender flairs. I've been driving it like this since the Zone lift kit was installed. It drove nice and steered well, but I couldn't leave well enough alone. After choosing my reference points and measuring twice, I'm within 1mm of center.

I bought a JKS adjustable track bar and installed it tonight. It took about 3 hours working slowly, this included readjusting my toe-in to 1/8" and re-centering the steering wheel. My biggest headache was getting the old track bar off. I didn't have a ball joint separating tool. $12 and a quick trip to the auto parts store took care of that problem.
Click to expand...

A trick you can do if you don't want to buy the tool: The part of the joint that the threads go through are tapered, so what I do is take the nut off, and then screw it back on a few threads for two reasons; one to protect the treads and two to catch it when it falls. Then I get a 16lb ball peen hammer, and hit the joint. Not the one with the threads, but the one that the threads go through. It takes a few good whacks, and the joint will drop. Then you just unscrew the nut, and it doesn't hurt the rubber boot. It saves you 12 bucks, and it doesn't poke holes in your boots.

Future reference.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Adjusting the track bar so the axle is simpler than may be suspected. With the tires on the ground, disconnect the adjustable length track bar.
Click to expand...

The RC track bar doesn't need to be disconnected. It has an adjustment sleeve like the drag link, which can be adjusted with the track bar bolted on at both ends.
 
A trick you can do if you don't want to buy the tool: The part of the joint that the threads go through are tapered, so what I do is take the nut off, and then screw it back on a few threads for two reasons; one to protect the treads and two to catch it when it falls. Then I get a 16lb ball peen hammer, and hit the joint. Not the one with the threads, but the one that the threads go through. It takes a few good whacks, and the joint will drop. Then you just unscrew the nut, and it doesn't hurt the rubber boot. It saves you 12 bucks, and it doesn't poke holes in your boots.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I thought about using a bigger hammer, but I didn't have a lot of room to swing it, plus I always wanted a pickle fork tool :D
 
glwood said:
The RC track bar doesn't need to be disconnected. It has an adjustment sleeve like the drag link, which can be adjusted with the track bar bolted on at both ends.
Click to expand...
True but it's still a lot easier to disconnect its frame-end and let/help the axle self-center on its own, then adjust the track bar's length to match the mounting bolt hole's location. Using that adjustment link to move the frame side-to-side over the top of the axle is making for a tough adjustment.
 
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Centering the front axle in my lifted jeep and setting the toe made a great improvement In handling.
Also solved a bad bump steer situation that the previous owner and a so called "Jeep specialist off-road shop" could not figure out.
 

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