It’s a real bummer, it’s been about a year ago I had the shocks done. They aren’t going to help at all in sorting this out. Without charging me full price I mean.
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Could it be the springs?
- Thread starter TJScott
- Start date
Shocks are typically measured in 3 ways:
1. Extended length
2. Collapsed length
3. Travel
The shock body isn't necessarily longer or shorter, although they can be.
1. Extended length
2. Collapsed length
3. Travel
The shock body isn't necessarily longer or shorter, although they can be.
What you will need is a combination of added bump stop and a shorter travel shock. with 6.25" of available up travel back there, you could feasibly add 1.5" of added bump stop and a shock with 5" of available up travel.
To do it proper you should pull the springs/shocks and measure your shock mount to mount at full bump. That will give you your "collapsed shock length".
To do it proper you should pull the springs/shocks and measure your shock mount to mount at full bump. That will give you your "collapsed shock length".
Am I trying to find a shock with about 6.25” of travel then? Assuming that is I don’t change the bump stop at the bottom? Well, or top?
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So fully collapsed suspension, measure how much between the top and bottom shock mount and make sure the collapsed shock doesn’t exceed that value?
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Can you get a measurement between the shock mounts as it sits right now at normal ride height? Center of bolt to center of bolt, as close as you are able to.
Measure between the shock mounts as it sits at normal ride height. Expect this to be about 17-20".
Measure between the shock mounts at full compression. Expect this to be about 12.5" without bump stop extension.
Measure between the shock mounts and full droop. Expect this to be about 25".
Find several shock options with compressed and extended lengths that fit in between these measurements.
gorancho.com lists these measurements.
From those options, find one that will extend and compress similar amounts from your ride height. This will be about 4-5" each way. An option with a little more up is more comfortable than a slightly longer shock with more down.
Extend the bump stops to be slightly longer than the new compressed shock.
Measure between the shock mounts at full compression. Expect this to be about 12.5" without bump stop extension.
Measure between the shock mounts and full droop. Expect this to be about 25".
Find several shock options with compressed and extended lengths that fit in between these measurements.
gorancho.com lists these measurements.
From those options, find one that will extend and compress similar amounts from your ride height. This will be about 4-5" each way. An option with a little more up is more comfortable than a slightly longer shock with more down.
Extend the bump stops to be slightly longer than the new compressed shock.
He may or may not have some added bump in the rear, but it's hard to tell when they add the bump to the upper cup. I'm guessing there is no added bump at all. If it wasn't for the shocks acting as 3" bump stops, your tires would probably be hitting the inner wheel wells by now.
I'm nearly positive that there is no rear bump stop extension. Definitely check the front. The process is the same.
Something I've never known is when a 33 hits the rear wheel well. I didn't start paying close attention until after too many things weren't stock anymore.
I do know that 33s with a small body lift require at least 1.5" of bump stop extension.
I do know that 33s with a small body lift require at least 1.5" of bump stop extension.
This is slowly starting to sink in. Once the spring and shock are out and I’ve compressed the suspension. I should be looking to see what the tire is doing in the wheel well. If hitting it, add bump stop. If not find the right shock. I was going to take a measurement of the distance between shock mounts when fully extended and fully compressed, but also at ride height. Then try to find a shock that fits mainly the compressed needs? I’m about ready to try and find a competent 4wd shop and have them do it right. There aren’t any where I live apparently.
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I have about 6” of clearance between the top of my tire and the lowest part of the wheel wells. Front and back are within about a 1/4 to a 1/2” of each other. This is the front.
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Correct. When you compress the suspension, move the axle with tires everywhere it can go. The tire bump stop requirements show up at full flex and full steering lock. Track bar problems show to at full bump both sides. Add just enough bump stop to prevent all of this. Though I little tire rub on sheet metal is fine.
This is your minimum required bump stop extension. Base your shock measurements on this.
The up and down travels should be close to 50/50 from ride height.
For as often as your situation shows up, I don't know if there are very many competent 4wd shops. Once you go through this process, you'll be in better shape than most appear to be.
Full flex/full steering lock is different than full bump.
You do have some front bump stop extension, btw. The jounces look rotten. Crown sells stock replacements.
This is a good recent thread to read through a couple times. All of it relates to this. Starting at post 57, we figured out some bump stop requirements.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/track-bar-and-tie-rod-what-hits-what-doesnt.4665/post-280722
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/track-bar-and-tie-rod-what-hits-what-doesnt.4665/post-280722
I just found the receipt. He put in RS55255 and RS55256. I’m now going to go and see if I can find what lift those are designed for, I have 4”. He did it almost a year to the day ago. I don’t wheel hard trails obviously, that’s why it hasn’t reared its ugly head more frequently. But, I want my Jeep to work correctly.
The part that hangs down from the top, those are the bump stops and I assume they don’t fully compress into the cup. But, are rubber and stop the suspension travel. Shouldn’t the amount of travel needed by the shocks be equal to the air between the tip of the bump stop and the part at the bottom in the middle of the spring? I’ve read almost all of that other thread. It’s quite the process to get the desired result it seems. I guess I have to get into my head what the bump stops and suspension are doing during actual use. What happens when the suspension fully compresses to the bump stops. How far does the bump stop compress? I’ll start surfing for some of the answers. I’m still way to new to the 4 wheel world.
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The part that hangs down from the top, those are the bump stops and I assume they don’t fully compress into the cup. But, are rubber and stop the suspension travel. Shouldn’t the amount of travel needed by the shocks be equal to the air between the tip of the bump stop and the part at the bottom in the middle of the spring? I’ve read almost all of that other thread. It’s quite the process to get the desired result it seems. I guess I have to get into my head what the bump stops and suspension are doing during actual use. What happens when the suspension fully compresses to the bump stops. How far does the bump stop compress? I’ll start surfing for some of the answers. I’m still way to new to the 4 wheel world.
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Look at the thing in the vise from earlier. That is the squishy yellow rubber bumper inside the cup and is not intended to stop travel. All it does is slow the speed of travel.
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