Doing rear drum brakes? A must read!

I know it’s been over 25 years since I’ve done drums but I’m a pretty good wrench turner - and I follow pics well. Lol.
Here are the two different setups. Top two go together and bottom two together. Maybe someone can see what I’ve got wrong.

DBD70F17-5922-4E59-8266-4265FB9E19CB.jpeg2BD53534-3C36-4CE0-8AAE-BDFC8DE570F4.jpegA15B6C47-FA85-4E96-B08C-5F93675A9181.jpegD83869C8-5E80-443C-9B82-B84A0FB76DBC.jpeg
 
It seems by placing the top of the cable on the anchor post it takes up the 1/8” (or so) slack you have when placing it on the more narrow part of the same post.
 
Yes, but the first two pics have the cable connection behind the retainer on the anchor post in conflict with all images and instructions I have seen and so the last pic seems to not allow the adjuster to function. It certainly doesn’t keep the star wheel from turning on its own.
 
The first pic of it being mounted incorrectly (cable end being behind the large winged retainer) is netting the results of the second pic, where the adjustment arm is correctly placed against the star wheel?
 
Wow. I'm curious, are the new cables that came with your kit the same length as the ones you removed? Also, are the shoes properly seated up at the top post, and placed as far back toward the backing plate as they're supposed to be?
 
I believe all that is correct. On the cables being the same as the old, while I didn’t compare them, the old allowed the adjusting lever to be out of contact with the star wheel similar to the 3rd pic.
 
Well, it would seem something is amiss, for sure (like you didn't already know that). You should never have to assemble something incorrectly to get it to fit. Sure makes you wonder what the hell is going on to create this issue. It's either the wrong parts for this application (shoes and/or hardware kit), or something simple that you've missed in the reassembly process. Please understand, I'm not questioning your abilities at all, as we all are capable of making mistakes, and likely have made a number of them along the way. I just don't know what else it could be if not one of those two possibilities...
 
Is this the problem you had? The lever would not pull up to fully contact the star adjuster dial?

I am doing a full rebuild on the rear drums and seem to be running into the same issue. I tried to follow your picture, as well as several vidoes on YouTube.

I tried the new lever and spring, the old lever and spring. The cable is in the track. It seems as though no combination will pull that level up to the star wheel. Any ideas what I am missing?

Brake1.jpg


brake2.jpg
 
Cash, that is exactly the problem I’m having. The only fix I found is to put the cable upper end on the anchor post behind the retainer thus taking up the slack they you otherwise get no placing it on the smaller diameter part of the anchor post just behind the springs
 
You guys working on drum brakes are braver than me, I can barely spell drum. I've replaced a few shoes and adjusted them years ago but luck has always been on my side that, thankfully, nothing more complex was ever needed.
 
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I just went through this, and I didn’t read every post so if it’s already been said then disregard. My experience- IF THE CABLE GUIDE ISN’T SEATED ALL THE WAY IN THE BACKING PLATE the lever will not catch. That was my main issue on both sides. It may seem to be seated but it may not be. I had to use 2 hands and 3 thumbs to hold it down while I popped the springs back on with a screw driver.
Edit- seated in the part of the shoe that is called the web. Not the backing plate [emoji1474]

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@LHC30, I think I have found a solution. At least, I did find a solution that worked for me.

I think it is exactly what @Jay P is describing above. I found that the plate that guides the cable was being held in place by the white retainer spring, and was not fully seated in the shoe.

The hole on the cable guide plate is extended out in the back, so it can seat into the hole in the brake shoe. This puts the guide plate much higher and further out that it was when being only retained by the white spring. It is now so high up, that the cable barely fits between the shoe and guide.

After setting it up this way, my cable had enough retention to pull the adjusting lever into position. I also found it easier to take the lever off, hook it into the green spring, and then put it in place and position the other retainer spring on the lever after.

I also found that the adjusters that came in the OMIX-ADA Overhaul Kit set didn't really fit and still could barely reach the aftermarket or original levers. I ended up just cleaning up my original adjuster parts with steel wool and using the original adjuster and lever. I also had the wrong adjuster so the grooves in the click wheel where going the wrong direction (they are specific for each side).

Now, it all seems to be working.

Please see the picture below (my old take-off parts) to reference what I am saying about fully seating the plate to the shoe. I wouldn't be surprised if this may also fix your problem.

brake3.jpg
 
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@Jay P and @cash, this is a perfect example of having the right parts, assembled in the proper order, but just not...quite...right... @cash, your statement about the cable barely being able to fit between the cable guide and the shoe/lining table (when the guide is properly seated) is spot on. The cable guide has to be seated completely against the part of the shoe that's called the "web" (pretty sure that's what @Jay P was calling the backing plate). The only way for that to happen is for the protrusion at the back of the cable guide to drop completely into its designated hole in the web, and then to have the hook section of the return spring hold it firmly in place.

I think you guys nailed it! :thumbsup:
 
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Squatch said:
@Jay P and @cash, this is a perfect example of having the right parts, assembled in the proper order, but just not...quite...right... @cash, your statement about the cable barely being able to fit between the cable guide and the shoe/lining table (when the guide is properly seated) is spot on. The cable guide has to be seated completely against the part of the shoe that's called the "web" (pretty sure that's what @Jay P was calling the backing plate). The only way for that to happen is for the protrusion at the back of the cable guide to drop completely into its designated hole in the web, and then to have the hook section of the return spring hold it firmly in place.

I think you guys nailed it! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Haha you are 100% correct. It was not the backing plate but I’m glad that you caught that. It has been a few weeks and my memory failed to realize that it was in the shoe or “web” as you say it is called. I’m just glad I could finally help with something rather than always asking this one time [emoji854]


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Jay P said:
Haha you are 100% correct. It was not the backing plate but I’m glad that you caught that. It has been a few weeks and my memory failed to realize that it was in the shoe or “web” as you say it is called. I’m just glad I could finally help with something rather than always asking this one time [emoji854]


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Click to expand...
Ya done good! :thumbsup:
 
Also, if you are replacing wheel cylinders, this may be helpful.

I ordered these OMIX-ADA 16723.11 Rear Driver or Passenger Side Wheel Cylinder, which say "driver or passenger side".

Fortunately, I also ordered these Dorman W37862 Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder, as a backup.

The OMIX-ADA fit great on the driver side but simply would not fit on the passenger side. The Dorman fit great on the passenger side.

The problem is that it was contacting the metal plate that surrounds the top stud that the 2 white springs and parking brake cable hold onto.

Maybe that is just my Jeep? Not sure, it is a 1997 SE.
 
I know this thread is old but I tackled the drum brakes after work and I said the most bad words I have said in a very long time. This is absolute stupidity that they would make it so difficult to work on. I did it in about 2 hours but I did notice that on of the adjusters wasn't contacting the star. The next morning I drove about 300 yards and took off the wheel that seems to have the problem and noticed what had been mentioned in this thread where the cable guide wasn't in the hole in the shoe. It's hard to believe that this is held in by just the spring. I got it though but don't feel great about it.
 
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