Super 35 axle upgrade questions

starkey480

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Bought my Jeep with 33’s and a Dana 35 rear axle with 4.56 gears. I’m starting to do some hairy trails and want to put lockers in. If I upgrade my Dana 35 to a super 35, can I keep my same 4.56 gears I have? Also how do I check to see if the previous owner already upgraded the axle when they did 4.56 gearing? Thanks
 
You can keep the gears, yes.

If they upgraded it to a Super 35 already, you'd have 30 spline axle shafts as oppose to 27. You could always pull one of the rear axle shafts (which isn't that hard) and count the splines.

Also, if they upgraded it to a Super 35 already, they would have needed to install a 30 spline diff / locker as well. While they could put in some sort of diff, chances are in most cases they would have installed a locker at the same time, as it would be senseless to not install a locker while doing the Super 35 conversion.
 
You can keep the gears, yes.

If they upgraded it to a Super 35 already, you'd have 30 spline axle shafts as oppose to 27. You could always pull one of the rear axle shafts (which isn't that hard) and count the splines.

Also, if they upgraded it to a Super 35 already, they would have needed to install a 30 spline diff / locker as well. While they could put in some sort of diff, chances are in most cases they would have installed a locker at the same time, as it would be senseless to not install a locker while doing the Super 35 conversion.

Is this all I will need then besides a compressor to safely run a locker with 33’s?
https://www.4lowparts.com/shop/super-35-rear-axle-kit-arb-air-locker-Dana 35-30spl/
 
Is this all I will need then besides a compressor to safely run a locker with 33’s?
https://www.4lowparts.com/shop/super-35-rear-axle-kit-arb-air-locker-Dana 35-30spl/

Yes indeed! And with that you can safely run 35s as well.
 
Yes indeed! And with that you can safely run 35s as well.
Is it possible to run an E locker with a super 35? Any advice on E locker vs air locker in this situation? I’ve seen you suggest both. It’s my daily driver (Phoenix AZ) and want good road quality which is why I probably won’t go Detroit.
 
The Eaton E-locker is available separately for the Dana 35 housing and Super 35 30 spline axle shafts. Perhaps together with the RGA Super kit from a dealer like Ricky www.4lowparts.com

Don't fear the Detroit Locker. The rumors of poor on-road traits are either based on the previous poorly behaved version last sold 20 years ago, or from non-owners just repeating what they have heard. In reality the Detroit Locker is by far the best behaved automatic locker currently available. I had one in my previous TJ for over ten years and it was totally well behaved 99.9% of the time. That .1% it wasn't was just a quick minor lurch or unlocking noise. The secret to a well behaved Detroit Locker is nothing more than neutral throttle during turns. Accelerate or decelerate with throttle through a turn and it won't be able to unlock easily during the turn and a tire will chirp.

It will teach you how it likes to be driven within a day or two afterwards it becomes a non-issue. I loved my Detroit Locker and would still have it if that Jeep hadn't been stolen.

The only time I wouldn't recommend a Detroit Locker would be to someone who has to drive on icy/snow covered roads which you don't have in the Phoenix area.
 
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The Eaton E-locker is available separately for the Dana 35 housing and Super 35 30 spline axle shafts. Perhaps together with the RGA Super kit from a dealer like Ricky www.4lowparts.com

Don't fear the Detroit Locker. The rumors of poor on-road traits are either based on the previous poorly behaved version last sold 20 years ago, or from non-owners just repeating what they have heard. In reality the Detroit Locker is by far the best behaved automatic locker currently available. I had one in my previous TJ for over ten years and it was totally well behaved 99.9% of the time. That .1% it wasn't was just a quick minor lurch or unlocking noise. The secret to a well behaved Detroit Locker is nothing more than neutral throttle during turns. Accelerate or decelerate with throttle through a turn and it won't be able to unlock easily during the turn and a tire will chirp.

It will teach you how it likes to be driven within a day or two afterwards it becomes a non-issue. I loved my Detroit Locker and would still have it if that Jeep hadn't been stolen.

The only time I wouldn't recommend a Detroit Locker would be to someone who has to drive on icy/snow covered roads which you don't have in the Phoenix area.
Awesome thank you I may look into the Detroit locker instead then especially since it is more affordable. Thanks guys!
 
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The Eaton E-locker is available separately for the Dana 35 housing and Super 35 30 spline axle shafts. Perhaps together with the RGA Super kit from a dealer like Ricky www.4lowparts.com

Don't fear the Detroit Locker. The rumors of poor on-road traits are either based on the previous poorly behaved version last sold 20 years ago, or from non-owners just repeating what they have heard. In reality the Detroit Locker is by far the best behaved automatic locker currently available. I had one in my previous TJ for over ten years and it was totally well behaved 99.9% of the time. That .1% it wasn't was just a quick minor lurch or unlocking noise. The secret to a well behaved Detroit Locker is nothing more than neutral throttle during turns. Accelerate or decelerate with throttle through a turn and it won't be able to unlock easily during the turn and a tire will chirp.

It will teach you how it likes to be driven within a day or two afterwards it becomes a non-issue. I loved my Detroit Locker and would still have it if that Jeep hadn't been stolen.

The only time I wouldn't recommend a Detroit Locker would be to someone who has to drive on icy/snow covered roads which you don't have in the Phoenix area.
How difficult is putting in a super 35 kit myself?
 
How difficult is putting in a super 35 kit myself?
You just have to shim the new carrier left/right to get the correct backlash between the ring & pinion gears. It requires a dial indicator and a set of shims. Which means you don't have to set the gears up, so long as you're not changing the ratio, but you do have to insure the backlash is correct. Easy enough but not a simple bolt-in either. The rest of it is pretty much bolt-in.
 
The Eaton E-locker is available separately for the Dana 35 housing and Super 35 30 spline axle shafts. Perhaps together with the RGA Super kit from a dealer like Ricky www.4lowparts.com

Don't fear the Detroit Locker. The rumors of poor on-road traits are either based on the previous poorly behaved version last sold 20 years ago, or from non-owners just repeating what they have heard. In reality the Detroit Locker is by far the best behaved automatic locker currently available. I had one in my previous TJ for over ten years and it was totally well behaved 99.9% of the time. That .1% it wasn't was just a quick minor lurch or unlocking noise. The secret to a well behaved Detroit Locker is nothing more than neutral throttle during turns. Accelerate or decelerate with throttle through a turn and it won't be able to unlock easily during the turn and a tire will chirp.

It will teach you how it likes to be driven within a day or two afterwards it becomes a non-issue. I loved my Detroit Locker and would still have it if that Jeep hadn't been stolen.

The only time I wouldn't recommend a Detroit Locker would be to someone who has to drive on icy/snow covered roads which you don't have in the Phoenix area.
If I went with a no slip lunchbox in the front and a Detroit in the rear, would I not be able to drive on ice at all? Or is it one of those things where you just don’t want to do it all the time. Because I may occasionally drive a few hours north where it can snow. But probably like once a year.
 
If I went with a no slip lunchbox in the front and a Detroit in the rear, would I not be able to drive on ice at all? Or is it one of those things where you just don’t want to do it all the time. Because I may occasionally drive a few hours north where it can snow. But probably like once a year.
That's a tough question to answer. People with Detroits in the rear live where it snows/gets icy and they just learn to slow down and be extra-careful. In 2wd the front No-Slip should be ok but it could give problems on ice if you are in 4Hi or 4Lo on an icy surface.
 
That's a tough question to answer. People with Detroits in the rear live where it snows/gets icy and they just learn to slow down and be extra-careful. In 2wd the front No-Slip should be ok but it could give problems on ice if you are in 4Hi or 4Lo on an icy surface.
So I found an alloy USA super 35 kit with a Detroit locker on Craigslist for $400. Pretty good deal. I’m hearing I may also need an install kit with bearings and seals? Is this something I need or would that involve pulling apart the ring and pinion and gears and stuff? If I need an install kit do you have an recommendations?
 
So I found an alloy USA super 35 kit with a Detroit locker on Craigslist for $400. Pretty good deal. I’m hearing I may also need an install kit with bearings and seals? Is this something I need or would that involve pulling apart the ring and pinion and gears and stuff? If I need an install kit do you have an recommendations?
You won't need a master install kit but just a carrier install kit. It's not a bad idea to replace the carrier bearings, if you're not intending to change gear ratios (leave the pinion installed) then you shouldn't have to replace the pinion seal or bearings. You'll also need carrier shims for setting the backlash.
 
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You won't need a master install kit, but just a carrier kit. It's not a bad idea to replace the carrier bearings, if you're not intending to change gear ratios (leave the pinion installed) then you shouldn't have to replace the pinion seal or bearings. You'll also need a shim kit for the carrier.
Ok definitely not planning on changing gear ratio as I already have 4.56. So what I’m hearing is no install kit but I do need carrier bearings and a shim kit?
 
Ok definitely not planning on changing gear ratio as I already have 4.56. So what I’m hearing is no install kit but I do need carrier bearings and a shim kit?
Yep, that's correct! Just be sure the bearings will fit the Detroit carrier. When I installed a 30-spline e-locker into my Dana 35 the required carrier bearings were a larger I.D. than standard ones.
 
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X2 The Detroit soft locker is awesome if you don’t drive it on ice and snow. You set it and forget it.

I ran Detroit’s front and rear in my CJ for ten years with no issues and loved them, but I also had locking hubs. Let off the gas in turns and it will unlock. When on the gas you are fully locked.

I never had bangs quirks or changing lanes which was the word when I got them. I installed the gears and lockers with a buddy having never done them before. It wasn’t that bad but again it wasn’t my daily so it could be down until it was right. Make a set of setup bearings. The shims ride inside the bearing races for backlash and this lets you fine tune install when you are young and dumb as I was😀

I had the ARB lockers installed by a shop in my TJ so my wife could still drive it and it was still a daily at the time of install. Warning! Shops can fuck up installs! They screwed up both front and rear installs that I had to have addressed later on. Let the shop decide parts if you are paying to have it down. That way warranty’s are covered.

If I was building my tj now that’s it’s not a daily I would go Detroit locker in the rear and selectable up front or do a hub conversion and run a Detroit up front as well, but that’s just me.

It’s easy to spend your money so check and see if what you got first. You have 4.56 gears so previous owner had to address the carrier and most people do not install open carriers because that is dumb.
 
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X2 The Detroit soft locker is awesome if you don’t drive it on ice and snow. You set it and forget it.

I ran Detroit’s front and rear in my CJ for ten years with no issues and loved them, but I also had locking hubs. Let off the gas in turns and it will unlock. When on the gas you are fully locked.

I never had bangs quirks or changing lanes which was the word when I got them. I installed the gears and lockers with a buddy having never done them before. It wasn’t that bad but again it wasn’t my daily so it could be down until it was right. Make a set of setup bearings. The shims ride inside the bearing races for backlash and this lets you fine tune install when you are young and dumb as I was😀

I had the ARB lockers installed by a shop in my TJ so my wife could still drive it and it was still a daily at the time of install. Warning! Shops can fuck up installs! They screwed up both front and rear installs that I had to have addressed later on. Let the shop decide parts if you are paying to have it down. That way warranty’s are covered.

If I was building my tj now that’s it’s not a daily I would go Detroit locker in the rear and selectable up front or do a hub conversion and run a Detroit up front as well, but that’s just me.

It’s easy to spend your money so check and see if what you got first. You have 4.56 gears so previous owner had to address the carrier and most people do not install open carriers because that is dumb.
Awesome thanks for the input! It’s my daily driver but I’m in Arizona so no ice or snow for me. Probably going to do a lunchbox in the front. Definitely going to install everything myself I hate paying for labor. It’s definitely strange that the previous owner installed 4.56 gears and kept an open carrier but who knows. Does anyone have experience with alloy USA axle shafts?
 
I ran alloy USA brand front and rear in my CJ with 35’s. I had no issues but that was 10 years ago. I believe with the Dana 35 you want the revolution axles there was a debate about which alloy to use. @Jerry Bransford could probably point you in the right direction.
 
There isn't really a debate about which shafts to use. If the bearings ride directly on the axle shaft, then the shaft needs to be case hardened. 1541H is what to look for.
 
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There isn't really a debate about which shafts to use. If the bearings ride directly on the axle shaft, then the shaft needs to be case hardened. 1541H is what to look for.
Looks like it’s 4340 chromoly...