TJ Rubicon turning radius

[TurboTJ]

I have a 2006 TJR with a 2 inch OME lift and Currie control arms. Tires are 31.5 by 10.5 inch on Moabs and I have no rubbing. I have read about using washers under the steering stops to prevent rubbing when going to larger tires. I intend to stick with the tires I have so I got to thinking, could I actually decrease my turning radius (which of course is already excellent) by turning in the stops? So I removed the existing stops with the welded on stop nuts and replaced them with grade-8 bolts and nuts. I turned the wheels sideways left and right as far as I could until they hit some other stop, then backed out the bolts until they became the limit and torqued down the stop nuts. I estimate that I have reduced the left turn diameter by a good foot and the right turn by maybe half a foot. There is still no tire rubbing or binding in the steering linkage or universals that I can detect. I would say this was pretty darn successful. Any reason why I shouldn't have done this?

 

[Brianj5600]

I use my LCAs as steering stops. I would not do it with stock arms though.

 

[Goatman]

And that is good until in 4wd you turn a hard left and pop a front ujoint due to turning it past where the load can handle. I would "suffer" the 6 inch wider turn radius to prolong ujoint life.

 

[TurboTJ]

And that is good until in 4wd you turn a hard left and pop a front ujoint due to turning it past where the load can handle. I would "suffer" the 6 inch wider turn radius to prolong ujoint life.

There is no binding in the U-joints at full lock.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

And that is good until in 4wd you turn a hard left and pop a front ujoint due to turning it past where the load can handle. I would "suffer" the 6 inch wider turn radius to prolong ujoint life.

X2. Adding a couple washers under each of the two steering stop bolts doesn't increase the turning radius enough to worry about. I didn't even bother to remove my extra washers after installing wheels that pushed the tires out enough so they were no longer needed. And the more the turning wheel can be turned, the more stress it places on the axle shaft ears and the u-joints they hold. Add to that a little extra gas while in 4Lo with the steering wheel cranked hard over is the perfect recipe for a busted axle shaft ear as happened to my TJ on Sledgehammer in Johnson Valley years back.

Also, there's no need to replace the steering stop bolts with the welded washers, the washers are simply added under the bolt's welded washer.

 

[Brianj5600]

And that is good until in 4wd you turn a hard left and pop a front ujoint due to turning it past where the load can handle. I would "suffer" the 6 inch wider turn radius to prolong ujoint life.

Are you saying that the stock steering stops will allow the U-joints to bind?

 

[xxdabroxx]

I wouldn't reduce my stock steering stops any. I doubt you'd gain that much and U joints aren't the biggest fans of tight steering angles.

 

[pagrey]

There is still no tire rubbing or binding in the steering linkage or universals that I can detect. I would say this was pretty darn successful. Any reason why I shouldn't have done this?

I've always wondered if you could get a little more out of the stock setup. The load on the joint goes up allot at those angles but just use some common sense and carry a spare joint. You probably don't want to climb a boulder locked and in 4LO but making a turn on the trail, no big deal.

I see why people use the washer but personally I just let off when it starts to rub. I'd rather have the option of completing a tight turn with a little rubbing. The way people talk about it you'd think somebody was forcing them to lock the wheel.

 

[Brianj5600]

Also, there's no need to replace the steering stop bolts with the welded washers, the washers are simply added under the bolt's welded washer.

Do you have a picture handy?

 

[Brianj5600]

Found pics through search. I thought the stops were adjustable, but now I see the apparent jam nut is welded.