Choosing the right lift?

MonkeyTrev

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Joined
Apr 27, 2019
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24
Location
Oklahoma
I installed a RC lift kit on my 05 TJ around 2 years ago, I am fed up with the lift. The ride is bumpy the kit said 3.25” of lift, but seems more like 2.5” lift. The springs seemed to sag right from the start. I am now in the market for a better lift kit. I am trying to decided between short arm or long arm? Brands? Heights? I do a lot of road trips in my Jeep so I want something that I can daily drive and then take out during the summer and winter to hit the trials. I am also planing for a roof rack and rooftop tent. On top of that I am saving for all the modifications needed to run 35” tires so I want a lift that is capable of that. I don’t mind running a set of metalcloak fenders to gain more clearance. Im nervous to go too high and have the weight of the tent be too much for the Jeep to feel sturdy and planted on the trials. I appreciate any responses.
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I love my OME lift from DPG Offroad. Call them up and tell them what you want/need and they will set you up with a lift that works. I’m only at 2.5” with 1.25” BL and 33s so I can’t speak on anything bigger.
 
When folks say, "the ride is bumpy", buy a good set of shocks before you ditch the whole system. You will have to pay a lot for a good set of shocks. Give the OME Nitrocharger sport shocks a try.

Do a lot of research and build your own system rather than buy a complete kit. The "value" kits usually compromise in certain areas. If you do go with a kit, the OME 2.5" lift is one of the best.

I know 35" sounds cool, but you'll need >4" lift to get full articulation unless you do a lot of body cutting. And with all the weight of a rack and tent, you're not doing your CG any favors. I went down that road (RTT), but finally decided against it. Instead, I'm keen on a trailer.

There's a great thread on this site titled, "what it takes to run 35s on a TJ". Read it. Believe it. You'll need to sink the price of another TJ into your ride to do it right.

I know there are a ton of videos showing Jeep dudes happily tooling around on 35s, RTT, kitchens, awnings, 72" TVs, but those are typically JKs/JLs. They can run 35s without too much updating. They have a wider track and can do a better job with all that junk on top. There are a few youtubers with TJs and RTT and lifts, but I bet their ride is not so fun. Definitely would not want that combo on ice/snow.
 
When folks say, "the ride is bumpy", buy a good set of shocks before you ditch the whole system. You will have to pay a lot for a good set of shocks. Give the OME Nitrocharger sport shocks a try.

Do a lot of research and build your own system rather than buy a complete kit. The "value" kits usually compromise in certain areas. If you do go with a kit, the OME 2.5" lift is one of the best.

I know 35" sounds cool, but you'll need >4" lift to get full articulation unless you do a lot of body cutting. And with all the weight of a rack and tent, you're not doing your CG any favors. I went down that road (RTT), but finally decided against it. Instead, I'm keen on a trailer.

There's a great thread on this site titled, "what it takes to run 35s on a TJ". Read it. Believe it. You'll need to sink the price of another TJ into your ride to do it right.

I know there are a ton of videos showing Jeep dudes happily tooling around on 35s, RTT, kitchens, awnings, 72" TVs, but those are typically JKs/JLs. They can run 35s without too much updating. They have a wider track and can do a better job with all that junk on top. There are a few youtubers with TJs and RTT and lifts, but I bet their ride is not so fun. Definitely would not want that combo on ice/snow.
I have been thinking about to idea of the roof top tent alot, I am not 100% set on getting one yet. I am just tired of having to set up my tent on the ground every night, but I would rather have a more capable rig to get me to my camping spot than a fancy tent on my roof. What is your opinion on body lifts inorder to do a tummy tuck ? I have considered doing a 3-4" suspension and adding a 1" body lift to get some extra clearance.
 
Not a fan of body lifts. Though I've never done one. Just rubs me the wrong way for some reason so it's possible I'm talking out of my ass.

Tummy tuck looks like a terrific idea, but I think it's one of those can of worms kind of things. Anything that messes with pinion angle in the extreme has the potential to cause headaches. And making adjustments for pinion angles has its own headaches (slip yoke eliminators, new drive shafts, engine mount lifts to angle the engine, etc). If you think you're going to see a lot of big, boulder-y rocky areas then a raised skid plate for the t-case is a good idea.

Think a lot about where you want to overland. There are a lot of people here who do a lot of fun stuff with 0-2" of lift.
 
Not a fan of body lifts. Though I've never done one. Just rubs me the wrong way for some reason so it's possible I'm talking out of my ass.

Tummy tuck looks like a terrific idea, but I think it's one of those can of worms kind of things. Anything that messes with pinion angle in the extreme has the potential to cause headaches. And making adjustments for pinion angles has its own headaches (slip yoke eliminators, new drive shafts, engine mount lifts to angle the engine, etc). If you think you're going to see a lot of big, boulder-y rocky areas then a raised skid plate for the t-case is a good idea.

Think a lot about where you want to overland. There are a lot of people here who do a lot of fun stuff with 0-2" of lift.
Well, my idea with the build is to be able to go anywhere in the United States. Anywhere fine Washington State to Florida. I have lots of trip ideas planned to go all over. I have heard body lifts are not good, and it’s better to go full suspension.
 
Well, my idea with the build is to be able to go anywhere in the United States. Anywhere fine Washington State to Florida. I have lots of trip ideas planned to go all over. I have heard body lifts are not good, and it’s better to go full suspension.

You can definitely go anywhere in the United States with your rig. They built these things called "roads" and they'll take you pretty much anywhere :)

I'd suggest saving your bucks. Try some new shocks first. RC stuff isn't junk but it's not Icon. Shoot for something in between. Your setup will work for you and if you find it needs to do more, you can always update it later. Instead, focus on maintenance stuff like janky sway bar links, loose ball joints, wonky steering linkage, leaky axle seals, leaky oil pan/RMS, leaky PS hoses, bad u-joints...pretty much any of the stock suspension stuff. Make sure that's sorted and your rig will take you anywhere you want to go.

A 3" lift with 33" tires on some stock offset rims will be a good setup for your overlanding adventures. Watch the overlanding videos on youtube. Check out their gear. Most are pretty mild. BFG K/O 2s seem to be the most popular tire out there. 2"-3" lifts are common. You won't find too many RTT on TJs. Watch some videos on trailers. You can buy/build some very capable off-road trailers.
 
Well, my idea with the build is to be able to go anywhere in the United States. Anywhere fine Washington State to Florida. I have lots of trip ideas planned to go all over. I have heard body lifts are not good, and it’s better to go full suspension.
A combination suspension + body lift is a great way to go as long as the BLdoesn’t exceed 1.25”. Paired with a 1” Motor mount lift will set you up for a TTuck. To run 35’s you’ll need a 4” + 1.25”. But with all that extra weight via roof rack you better aim high.

The BL also does other things. More room for tires, space for gas tank tuck, more room for larger spare, et al. Best bang for buck mod. The MML raises the oil pan and decreases rear driveshaft angles.

A lesser 33” build could get you just about anywhere you want to go in the US.
 
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If you want to go 35's you will need a 4" lift and a 1" BL. If you want top quality look at Currie and Savvy kits. I am running the Currie 4" kit and love it, it handles off road and on road very well. You will need several other items to run 35's well I know, I am running 35's

Yea roof top tents, actually any heavy weight up high is not a good thing. Look a the Coleman Insta-tent
https://www.coleman.com/6-person-in...cgid=coleman-tentsandshelters-instant#start=6
They have several to pick from and set up in one minue
 
A lesser 33” build could get you just about anywhere you want to go in the US.
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You don't have to listen to me, but I agree with above. I have approximately a 4" lift and 33's. If I went higher, I'd scrape the sprinkler system pipes in my parking garage. There would be places I couldn't go due to excessive height. I am not a worldly experienced off roader. I am adept in the desert, have no desire to go mudding, but wouldn't mind trying milder rock climbing on the tamer trails. I do like to camp, and regular tent camping is easy without having all the bling on my roof. I'd wager if I learned from the veteran crawlers, I could go almost anywhere the guys with monster builds go, with a few exceptions. I have no desire to beat or roll my rig and often drive around obstacles I know I could conquer. If you want to run in the 48 contiguous states, stock to 33" is not a bad platform. I personally am more envious of people with stock or mild rigs. You can travel 5-star for the cost of doing things wrong or over done.
 
Most will push for removing the RTT. Makes sense to me. If you want to camp, great, but now you have to put your tent away if you want to go explore. Id find a trailer to use, or maybe even look into a cot to get you off the ground.

As far as 35s go, I also suggest you read the "what it takes to run 35s" thread. Its a load of information. TLDR--4" suspension lift, and a 1.25" body lift and the proper bumpstops. You want to at least keep the stock 4" of uptravel, its better if you can add more. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a 1" or 1.25" body lift. They can open up travel and solve several issues. This is also a good thread in an attempt to sway you from a LA setup
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/long-arm-lifts-vs-short-arm-lifts.13319/
 
I really appreciate everyone’s replies. Any brand suggestions for a new set of shocks to pair with my RC lift ? The lift came with the N2.0 nitrogen shocks. Also, the kit included the transfer drop kit should I look into purchasing SYE kit and new control arms? I’m not sure if 3” of lift is enough to need to worry about a SYE.
 
I really appreciate everyone’s replies. Any brand suggestions for a new set of shocks to pair with my RC lift ? The lift came with the N2.0 nitrogen shocks. Also, the kit included the transfer drop kit should I look into purchasing SYE kit and new control arms? I’m not sure if 3” of lift is enough to need to worry about a SYE.
Rancho 5000x shocks (55239/55241)
At 3” you are definitely in SYE/DC territory. Your dropped TCase is telling you that. You could get rid of it and restore some clearance with the SYE...
 
Rancho 5000x shocks (55239/55241)
At 3” you are definitely in SYE/DC territory. Your dropped TCase is telling you that. You could get rid of it and restore some clearance with the SYE...
Okay, I’ll look into the rancho shocks and a SYE and new driveshaft. Would it be smart to throw a new skid plate under the Jeep and get rid of the factory skid plate ?
 
Okay, I’ll look into the rancho shocks and a SYE and new driveshaft. Would it be smart to throw a new skid plate under the Jeep and get rid of the factory skid plate ?
It depends on your future plans for the rig. If you never plan to do a Tummy Tuck, a smooth skid with the stock drop is nice to have. If you do plan a Tummy Tuck in the future, it is better to wait till you have your body lift, motor mount lift, rear CA's and SYE. Then lift the TCase up toward the tub, take your measurements for the DC and add a flat skid with more clearance.
 
You can definitely go anywhere in the United States with your rig. They built these things called "roads" and they'll take you pretty much anywhere :)

I'd suggest saving your bucks. Try some new shocks first. RC stuff isn't junk but it's not Icon. Shoot for something in between. Your setup will work for you and if you find it needs to do more, you can always update it later. Instead, focus on maintenance stuff like janky sway bar links, loose ball joints, wonky steering linkage, leaky axle seals, leaky oil pan/RMS, leaky PS hoses, bad u-joints...pretty much any of the stock suspension stuff. Make sure that's sorted and your rig will take you anywhere you want to go.

A 3" lift with 33" tires on some stock offset rims will be a good setup for your overlanding adventures. Watch the overlanding videos on youtube. Check out their gear. Most are pretty mild. BFG K/O 2s seem to be the most popular tire out there. 2"-3" lifts are common. You won't find too many RTT on TJs. Watch some videos on trailers. You can buy/build some very capable off-road trailers.
I am going to try a new set of shocks on my jeep first, if that does not make me happy. I will look into a new lift completely. I appreciate your advice, I will run a 33" tire and not deal with the headache and price of running 35".
 
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Measure your springs at ride height. Don't include the upper rubber isolator. Curious to see how much they have sagged, if any.
 
Measure your springs at ride height. Don't include the upper rubber isolator. Curious to see how much they have sagged, if any.
Yes, I can when I get home in a week. I am currently going to college in a different town. The reason I believe they are sagging is because I purchased an adjustable track bar that was for 3-4" lift. On the smallest setting of the track bar it was still too long, so I am assuming the springs sagged.
 
Well for 35’s you need a 4” lift, 1.25” body lift, 1” Motor mount lift , SYE(JB SS SYE), adjustable control arms, new gears with lockers, Front and rear trac bars, rear trackbar relocation bracket, rear double Cardan drive shaft...someone fill in if I missed anything

It wouldn’t hurt to get a SYE and new rear drive shaft to Eliminate the transfer case drop but then you’ll need rear adjustable control arms..