MCE flat fender install—Part one

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TJ Enthusiast
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Dec 9, 2018
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112
Location
St. Augustine, Florida
So, after extensive poring over photos and crunching the numbers, weight, ease of install (or lack of), and aesthetics, I went with the 4.5" MCE plastic fender set. I started on the rear just to get my bearings and instant gratification. I was introduced to an inner flange that screws to the body (not thrilled about using self tapping sheetmetal screws- going to Plan B on that) and an outer fender that is held to the inner flange with a strange rubber grommet/spacer system that, if I read somewhere correctly, allows you to take the fender off the inner flange if you are dragging trees, rocks, and earth along the side of your rig. I immediately thought of someone stealing the fenders for no other reason that they would be easily removed. I changed out the hardware to hurricane bolts with heads big enough to prevent just popping the fenders off. Anyway, the hardware package had 10-24 bolts and #8 spacers so I had to change the hardware anyway. The instructions are simplistic (borderline vague) and let's you make up stuff as you go along. I got the fenders on and honestly, they're only marginally better than the OEM flares. I am looking forward to the front fenders to set the look so stay tuned...

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Ooooo after seeing you an @jjvw put these on this week I’m starting to feel the urge 😂 do you have any more pics? I think you’ll find the most benefit comes from the front fender’s clearance.
 
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Ooooo after seeing you an @jjve put these on this week I’m starting to feel the urge 😂 do you have any more pics? I think you’ll find the most benefit comes from the front fender’s clearance.
That's what I was hoping for- a tad more clearance without buying mega expensive high lines. That's it for pics so far.
 
That's what I was hoping for- a tad more clearance without buying mega expensive high lines. That's it for pics so far.

The rear is the exact same opening size as stock. There will be no change, unless the body is trimmed. The fronts will only create useable clearance if the top of the factory outer fender is in the way before the rear wall.
 
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The rear is the exact same opening size as stock. There will be no change, unless the body is trimmed. The fronts will only create useable clearance if the top of the factory outer fender is in the way before the rear wall.
Truly, I wanted the look of a flat fender. If I meet or exceed stock clearance, great. I bent the stock fenders flexing with 35s without massive articulation so, I'm not expecting a miracle.
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Truly, I wanted the look of a flat fender. If I meet or exceed stock clearance, great. I bent the stock fenders flexing with 35s without massive articulation so, I'm not expecting a miracle. View attachment 136183
If you are smashing fenders with your tires, you need to set up your bump stops correctly.
 
Fully cycle the axles without springs using a floor jack. Longer shocks with the appropriate length bump stop extension will solve several issues.
 
Yeah looking at some other pics it seems you don’t have any bumpstop extension. Those are a safe bet in keeping your fenders from getting messed up!
Right. Honestly, I didnt realize they were missing until recently. The jeep has been getting rebuilt over the last year since I bought it used and the 35s obviously changed the clearances
 
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I have finally joined the ranks of the flat fender! These are the 4.5" MCE fenders and even with vague instructions, more or less useless hardware, and +/- fitting on my somewhat tweaked TJ, I got the fenders on and I am fairly satisfied with the end product. They are light, pliable, and not wavy which are definite pluses. I contacted MCE about the crappy hardware (#10 machine screws with #8 bushings, self tapping screws instead of using existing holes, tiny washers) and was told they'd send me a new package and it never showed up. Suffice to say, I bought $30+ of new stainless hardware and attached the fenders to my specs. I have seen this fender kit for considerably more money than I paid through Suspension Connection and I probably would have been disappointed had I paid more than I did. Anyway, here it is for better or worse.

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The standoffs on mine were also too small. I just drilled them out with a 3/16" bit.
 
So, after extensive poring over photos and crunching the numbers, weight, ease of install (or lack of), and aesthetics, I went with the 4.5" MCE plastic fender set. I started on the rear just to get my bearings and instant gratification. I was introduced to an inner flange that screws to the body (not thrilled about using self tapping sheetmetal screws- going to Plan B on that) and an outer fender that is held to the inner flange with a strange rubber grommet/spacer system that, if I read somewhere correctly, allows you to take the fender off the inner flange if you are dragging trees, rocks, and earth along the side of your rig. I immediately thought of someone stealing the fenders for no other reason that they would be easily removed. I changed out the hardware to hurricane bolts with heads big enough to prevent just popping the fenders off. Anyway, the hardware package had 10-24 bolts and #8 spacers so I had to change the hardware anyway. The instructions are simplistic (borderline vague) and let's you make up stuff as you go along. I got the fenders on and honestly, they're only marginally better than the OEM flares. I am looking forward to the front fenders to set the look so stay tuned...

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I can’t say Im’ overly excited yet about my MCE’s. I’m looking at installing the rear’s now, and with my wheel well to wheel well sliders, I will have to do something creative to make that work. I don’t like at all that they have this inner and outer for the rear that attaches via four grommet’s with cylinders and a bolt, not excited. Why couldn’t they have just made one piece? Oh, this way you can remove it. Totally useless. I thought that was the point of them getting bashed and not suffering terminal damage. Ok, enough bashing them myself.
 
I can’t say Im’ overly excited yet about my MCE’s. I’m looking at installing the rear’s now, and with my wheel well to wheel well sliders, I will have to do something creative to make that work. I don’t like at all that they have this inner and outer for the rear that attaches via four grommet’s with cylinders and a bolt, not excited. Why couldn’t they have just made one piece? Oh, this way you can remove it. Totally useless. I thought that was the point of them getting bashed and not suffering terminal damage. Ok, enough bashing them myself.
My rears are sitting in the shed. I shaved my (rear) factories, but the mud that is thrown is crazy.
So I bucked up and bought the MCE rears. Can't bring myself to install them. It just doesn't look right to me, no state laws to mandate tire coverage, so they're staying off.
 
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My rears are sitting in the shed. I shaved my (rear) factories, but the mud that is thrown is crazy.
So I bucked up and bought the MCE rears. Can't bring myself to install them. It just doesn't look right to me, no state laws to mandate tire coverage, so they're staying off.
I’d go no rears, but WA does have coverage laws. I think I can make it work. I’ll post pics IF they turn out good. 🤣
 
I have finally joined the ranks of the flat fender! These are the 4.5" MCE fenders and even with vague instructions, more or less useless hardware, and +/- fitting on my somewhat tweaked TJ, I got the fenders on and I am fairly satisfied with the end product. They are light, pliable, and not wavy which are definite pluses. I contacted MCE about the crappy hardware (#10 machine screws with #8 bushings, self tapping screws instead of using existing holes, tiny washers) and was told they'd send me a new package and it never showed up. Suffice to say, I bought $30+ of new stainless hardware and attached the fenders to my specs. I have seen this fender kit for considerably more money than I paid through Suspension Connection and I probably would have been disappointed had I paid more than I did. Anyway, here it is for better or worse.

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What bumper is this? love it TIA