Truetrac With Antirock

dsharp6855

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Just purchased a Revolution Gear S35 kit with Eaton E-Locker. Now I'm trying to figure out what to do with the front. I'm doing a gear change so I will have to change the carrier.

I Cant afford another selectable locker right now. I like all the characteristics of the Detroit truetrac except for when one wheel is off the ground. I'm just wondering if installing a Currie Antirock sway bar would help keep both wheels on the ground and help the truetrac stay hooked up.

I know it won't be a miracle worker in every situation but wonder if it would be enough to alleviate the truetrac's limitations a significant amount of the time. What are your thoughts? Am I overthinking it?
 
Kinda sorta. My feeling is that the AR starts to really shine in terrain where lockers are a good idea.

How does the AR shine in those situations? I've been debating whether or not it's worth it to pull the trigger on one for a while
 
Wouldn't the cost of a Truetrac and an Antirock be about the same as an e-locker?

You wouldn't need to make a "Super 30", and you could upgrade the shafts to chromoly at a later time, and install the sway bar later on
 
Wouldn't the cost of a Truetrac and an Antirock be about the same as an e-locker?

You wouldn't need to make a "Super 30", and you could upgrade the shafts to chromoly at a later time

I'm planning to go with a antirock anyway, just wondering how much it would help the truetrac.
 
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How does the AR shine in those situations? I've been debating whether or not it's worth it to pull the trigger on one for a while

The front AR combined with the factory rear (or rear AR) is going to help keep the body from flopping around as you roll through an obstacle by controlling weight transfer. Because a sway bar tries to keep the body parallel to it's respective axle, two sway bars on axles in opposing articulation will work to keep the body centered and balanced between them. This helps keep wheels on the ground and it increases overall stability and predictability.

To the point that the wheels stay on the ground, I'm sure the AR can compliment an LSD. After that, the lifted tire is just going to spin.
 
You could always do a Detroit locker up front. That would probably be close to the cost of the truetrac and would work better in any situation where one front tire was off the ground.

If that isn't going to be an issue for you you'll probably be really happy with the TrTr. I like the one in the back of my Jeep but someday I'd like to super 35 it and go with an ARB or E locker.
 
As much as I like Detroit Lockers, having run one in the rear of my previous TJ, they don't hold together well in a TJ's front Dana 44 or Dana 30.
 
Ive seen threads before on "usable/ useful flex" Running disconnected allows all the flex in the world but if your at the end of your spring and it starts to unseat you effectively have zero force from the vehicle on that tire ( with exception of the axle and tire weight). I say that because with my antirock I don't get that anymore. If anything I noticed that once I went with the Antirock I lift a tire more often (and that doesn't matter for the reasons just discussed)

Ive also run front and rear truetracs in the past. They are great at being limited slips. you can bring one into action on a lifted tire by applying some brake, but if your driving a manual as I was you're going to need a hand throttle. Not an ideal situation. Especially if your running the antirock.

The antirock is a killer upgrade. I love mine. Do it and don't hesitate. If you can't afford the selectable for the front go with a drop in Aussie or Spartan locker until you can. It shouldn't act up on the street as it will only engage when acted upon by the front driveshaft. ie in 4wd.
 
I like the way the truetrac handles in every other way, e.g. snow and ice. It doesn't snow a lot around here but I like getting the jeep out when it does, a locker isn't good in those conditions. I would have went with a truetrac in the back if they were offered for 30 spline shafts.
 
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Ive seen threads before on "usable/ useful flex" Running disconnected allows all the flex in the world but if your at the end of your spring and it starts to unseat you effectively have zero force from the vehicle on that tire ( with exception of the axle and tire weight). I say that because with my antirock I don't get that anymore. If anything I noticed that once I went with the Antirock I lift a tire more often (and that doesn't matter for the reasons just discussed)

....

I find the useable/useful flex explaination to be a little misguided. Useable travel is dictated by the shocks. If the springs are falling out at droop, then the shocks are too long or the springs are too short. Either one is creating useless travel. What the Antirock is doing is separate from that. And in my experience, the AR is not limiting travel on my 10.7" travel shocks even on the middle setting.
 
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I find the useable/useful flex explaination to be a little misguided. Useable travel is dictated by the shocks. If the springs are falling out at droop, then the shocks are too long or the springs are too short. Either one is creating useless travel. What the Antirock is doing is separate from that. And in my experience, the AR is not limiting travel on my 10.7" travel shocks even on the middle setting.

thats a good point.

if your springs and shocks are appropriately matched and still seated how do you know if the shock has enough pressure by itself to overcome the resistance of the antirock?

Would be an interesting experiment to pull both front springs on jack stands and check full one sided droop by measuring shocks with and without the antirock connected to test this theory definitively.
 
thats a good point.

if your springs and shocks are appropriately matched and still seated how do you know if the shock has enough pressure by itself to overcome the resistance of the antirock?

Would be an interesting experiment to pull both front springs on jack stands and check full one sided droop by measuring shocks with and without the antirock connected to test this theory definitively.

It takes a lot of shock travel before the AR will start to resist the useable shock travel. More travel than most of us will ever build into a TJ.
 
It takes a lot of shock travel before the AR will start to resist the useable shock travel. More travel than most of us will ever build into a TJ.

look im not trying to get into a pissing match and im sure you know what your talking about but if thats true then what's the point of running it? It does by design resist the movement caused by the axle rising and falling on opposite sides does it not? Im not saying it's a major contributing factor to the amount of droop or lack thereof as the factory bar is... only that necessarily by its function and purpose that it has to in some amount do just that.
 
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Don’t know what effect the antirock will have with the truetrac but I like my antirock. I run it in the middle setting and haven’t had to disconnect it yet. Even on the road it’s fine, off road does what I want ✌🏻
 
look im not trying to get into a pissing match and im sure you know what your talking about but if thats true then what's the point of running it? It does by design resist the movement caused by the axle rising and falling on opposite sides does it not? Im not saying it's a major contributing factor to the amount of droop or lack thereof as the factory bar is... only that necessarily by its function and purpose that it has to in some amount do just that.

If disconnected is unrestricted/uncontrolled and factory is too much restriction/heavily controlled, then the Antirock is somewhere in between those. It can certainly resist movement without restricting the usable movement.