Ride quality: 15" vs 17" wheels with 31" tires

[Moab]

For those that have run both. Assuming the tires are relatively the same - say 31" tires. How much ride quality difference is there between 15" and 17" wheels?

I'm trying to decide between the two. And in theory it seems like the 15's would have more sidewall. Thus more flex. Thus a softer ride.

I'm always trying to improve the ride quality of my TJ. And don't want to miss out on an advantage the next time I buy tires. I currently run 17" JK Moabs and 31" tires.

 

[Chris]

I don't think you'll notice any difference whatsoever, as long as they are both the same load rating.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

For those that have run both. Assuming the tires are relatively the same - say 31" tires. How much ride quality difference is there between 15" and 17" wheels?

I'm trying to decide between the two. And in theory it seems like the 15's would have more sidewall. Thus more flex. Thus a softer ride.

I'm always trying to improve the ride quality of my TJ. And don't want to miss out on an advantage the next time I buy tires. I currently run 17" JK Moabs and 31" tires.

A softer ride will be most influenced by tire pressure (should be running around 30) and load range C tires.

 

[Rick Flair]

I have not a clue why you’d run 17” wheels with 31’s on a TJ.....

 

[Goatman]

The rule of thumb (stupid name) is the rim should be no more than 1/2 the tire. So a 15" rim for a 30" tire, 16" rim for 32" tire, etc. Obviously that is a dumb rule as that makes pretty much every OEM rim too big for the tire.
The odds of actually noticing a difference is slim at best. I think rim width is more important to ride quality. Too wide a rom makes the sidewall run straight, losing flex.

 

[Plumber1]

The rule of thumb (stupid name) is the rim should be no more than 1/2 the tire. So a 15" rim for a 30" tire, 16" rim for 32" tire, etc. Obviously that is a dumb rule as that makes pretty much every OEM rim too big for the tire.
The odds of actually noticing a difference is slim at best. I think rim width is more important to ride quality. Too wide a rom makes the sidewall run straight, losing flex.

Well hell now I have to buy new wheels and tires. I have been running 35's on 15' wheels for the last 6 years and now I know I need to be running 17" wheels. LOL

 

[mrblaine]

I have not a clue why you’d run 17” wheels with 31’s on a TJ.....

Tires are cheap, rims are cheap as shit for high quality OEM 17's. Ride quality is astounding on some of the tires. Other than that, nary a clue.

 

[Moto Mike]

Went from 17 to 15 because there is more of a selection of load range C in 15's. Whole new jeep now at 28psi and 15's. 17's were load D and 10 ply. Great off road but TOTALLY sucked any other time.

 

[Rick Flair]

Tires are cheap, rims are cheap as shit for high quality OEM 17's. Ride quality is astounding on some of the tires. Other than that, nary a clue.

You maybe right! Maybe I’m stuck in the past. I wouldn’t personally run OEM wheels but understand why some would.

tire cost, I guess I can’t agree with you on that, 15’s maybe disappearing as 17’s become the standard but my 33’s cost me $500 for 5 brand new....and in a proper load range for the TJ.....C. Now maybe they offer 17” in a C range as I haven’t looked, both my trucks that have 17’s have E and D range (1 ton and 1/2 ton).

but again, you might be right and I’ll stay in my lane. Personally I think 17’s just look too big unless you run 35”+ tires, but personal preference.

 

[mrblaine]

You maybe right! Maybe I’m stuck in the past. I wouldn’t personally run OEM wheels but understand why some would.

tire cost, I guess I can’t agree with you on that, 15’s maybe disappearing as 17’s become the standard but my 33’s cost me $500 for 5 brand new....and in a proper load range for the TJ.....C. Now maybe they offer 17” in a C range as I haven’t looked, both my trucks that have 17’s have E and D range (1 ton and 1/2 ton).

but again, you might be right and I’ll stay in my lane. Personally I think 17’s just look too big unless you run 35”+ tires, but personal preference.

I've bought a few sets of JK OEM take-offs with brand new tires for 400ish a set. That is tires and rims. OEM wheels are some of the higher quality rims out there.

 

[Rick Flair]

I've bought a few sets of JK OEM take-offs with brand new tires for 400ish a set. That is tires and rims. OEM wheels are some of the higher quality rims out there.

No I got where you were going for sure. I run beadlocks so OEM is not an option for me.

 

[Fouledplugs]

I have not a clue why you’d run 17” wheels with 31’s on a TJ.....

Cheaper JK takeoffs, big brakes, aesthetics, wheel choice (example being a true American made beadlock wheel)

 

[mrblaine]

No I got where you were going for sure. I run beadlocks so OEM is not an option for me.

Friend runs a set of OMF converted bead lock Moab rims on his XJ.

 

[MutantNinjaTJ]

Depends on if you're crawling Rocks or Malls, I prefer a little more side wall when crawling Rocks.

 

[mrblaine]

Depends on if you're crawling Rocks or Malls, I prefer a little more side wall when crawling Rocks.

Old school of thought. With today's tire technology, that isn't nearly as accurate as it used to be.

 

[MutantNinjaTJ]

You know I was just having some fun on a Sunday morning. Better go jump in the Jeep before we all get locked down, get out and have some fun.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Old school of thought. With today's tire technology, that isn't nearly as accurate as it used to be.

But it's not entirely inaccurate either.

 

[mrblaine]

But it's not entirely inaccurate either.

I was blown away by 35-17" MTRs working just as well as the 15 and 16" versions in JV. What level of accurate is that?

 

[pagrey]

I was blown away by 35-17" MTRs working just as well as the 15 and 16" versions in JV. What level of accurate is that?

Just as accurate as saying 31s are 35s I guess.

 

[Rick Flair]

Friend runs a set of OMF converted bead lock Moab rims on his XJ.

well, now you are putting major money into OEM wheels that most of the time, the offset doesn’t jive with wider tires. Then throw on wheel spacers to conver the bolt pattern and increase the scrub radius...all on cast wheels. If I was dropping money on OMF conversion, wheel adapters, on cast wheels, it doesn’t add up. Just start with a solid forged beadlock, like Walker Evans, in the correct backspacing and bolt pattern for less money in the end. Now you started off with a set of $400 wheels for the guy who will run them as a cheap take off, you made a point there. OMF conversation.....better forced options than the cast OEM if you go down that road.

again, it might work for some but I don’t see it being an option for me.