I think you should take up the offer on the free spring spacers to see if you want/ need that much height before forking out the money on new springs and such.
She did PM me and when July comes around and she gets started in springs we are going to work it outI think you should take up the offer on the free spring spacers to see if you want/ need that much height before forking out the money on new springs and such.
I think you should take up the offer on the free spring spacers to see if you want/ need that much height before forking out the money on new springs and such.
Mine had two inch BB when I bought it and nothing else...it works fine, your tires won't be in a straight line front to back, your right front will rub a bit in a hard parking lot turn, but I'm sure my TJ was driven for years like this. You don't have to change shocks. Then, if you feel good w/ the lift, buy your springs, an adjustable front track, and a rear relocation bracket. Then you could add better shocks and other goodies later.Yes, I may take that offer, but the only thing I am not sure on is, if I use the spacers to raise it the 2 inches, don't I need to still add the other stuff too (arms, shocks, brackets and so on)? If so, I am spending money on that stuff, so if I didn't like the lift, I would still be out the money for all that stuff. Yes I could sell it, but I wouldn't get what I paid for it.
I have some time to still think on things. I am going to for sure put the jeep up on stands once I get the BL and climb in and out a few times to see how I am going to do on that part of it. That will also tell me what it is going to look like as far as tire gap and all too.
That would work. You just want to make sure you can bolt through the inside of the tub to secure it on the face. To check you can measure up the side and see where it will be on the inside. I made a pair of sliders for a friend of mine and all we did was make a “rub rail” for the bottom. You could potentially integrate a step but I don’t know if I would trust only that much to holding the weight leveraged out. If it were me I would get a piece that covered the bottom entirely (7-9 inches) and then came up with a 2-3” lip.What about just some decent thickness of angle iron ran like the bottom pic in my post above? I wouldn't mind only 2 inches going up the side, but don't like the look of the 4 inches.
Why not just go with a normal slider/step combo and then paint it white so you don’t notice? And maybe the step purple?
I've found that most steps on sliders are fairly useless and grab bars are much more helpful. I would bet with a 2" lift it would still be easier to get into than most 1/2ton trucks made today.That is what I might end up doing? I need to lift it first to see how much I may end up using a step.Right now with it being stock, the step actually got in my way. I didn't need to use it to get in and out and my pant leg would always rub on it.
I've found that most steps on sliders are fairly useless and grab bars are much more helpful. I would bet with a 2" lift it would still be easier to get into than most 1/2ton trucks made today.
An extremely quick and easy way to test it out would be to drive onto a 2x4 and get out.
You should join on the deer creek and or slickrock run. June 27-28
You should be fine installing without the track bars. The axle will be about .25" pushed over but it will drive fine.
You're right on the edge of needing adjustable rear sway bar end links. Did you already pick up 2" bump stops?
Also, you could save some money and just get a rear track bar relocation bracket. I ran one for years with both my 3.5" RE and 4" currie springs until I swapped it out.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005TTZA5W/?tag=wranglerorg-20
You should join on the deer creek and or slickrock run. June 27-28
You should be fine installing without the track bars. The axle will be about .25" pushed over but it will drive fine.