Here let me just leave a link for him here to make it easier. The are even load range C.
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tires....GRX3RLV2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
These are the same ones I want. Come on, all the cool kids are doing it.
05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
Here let me just leave a link for him here to make it easier. The are even load range C.
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tires....GRX3RLV2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
These are the same ones I want. Come on, all the cool kids are doing it.
Here let me just leave a link for him here to make it easier. The are even load range C.
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tires....GRX3RLV2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
These are the same ones I want. Come on, all the cool kids are doing it.
That's not fair... Within a couple of days of me posting my plans to go to 35's here is a link to the tires I want. Not all of us can go full nutso like you did...I looked up the start of your build thread, Mike. You went from junky lift to savvy short arm to a midarm in a year! Lol
Here let me just leave a link for him here to make it easier. The are even load range C.
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tires....GRX3RLV2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes
These are the same ones I want. Come on, all the cool kids are doing it.
Tire Rack says it's a C load, but I can't find it on Generals specs.
https://generaltire.com/sites/default/files/tires/files/GT18_Grabber-X3_Tire_Spec_Pages.pdf
Hmmm might have to call and confirm they exist.
Here is a another interesting tire.
https://www.americastire.com/buy-tires/nitto-trail-grappler-m-t/p/36633
I like the Nitto TrailGrappler M/T and Falken WildPeak M/T. They both are good tires.
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OP
Parts getting all dressed up to go to a party!
OP
I'm pretty excited to get the TT underway, also a bit nervous. This mod is no joke. It not only costs $2K, but it also takes a lot of thinking through each step. I'm glad I have the XJ so the TJ won't be required for getting around. Any suggestions are appreciated. So far I'm taking steps to get a good set of Snap Ring Pliers, the M6x1.0 (2") 10.8 bolts to remove the harmonic balancer, a good magnetic angle finder for pinion, and a few other items I'm forgetting right now. I'll try to do the SYE on the Jeep to save some time and try to take it slow and easy so I don't get frustrated. As far as the Savvy crossmember and transmission mount, I will have to see it all for it to make sense to me. I know the layout, just have to get the old skid removed so I can really focus my attention on what I am doing exactly. The CA's I will do one at a time. They are all double adjustable, so I suppose I just adjust the pinion while the rig is on the ground? Lengthening the uppers and shortening the lowers to center the wheel as best I can in the wheel well while keeping the jounces on the spring perch and avoiding the diff crashing into the gas tank. Someone mentioned jacking up the pinion. Is that something you do to help adjust the CA's?
If you know the ride height you’re going to be at (not changing springs?) I would pull the springs and jack the diff up to where the height will be at ride, then adjust the arms so you can get it almost perfectly with no spring load fighting you. At this point you have the opportunity to cycle and check interferences and bumps. Once you put the spring back on you can confirm that your arms are correct and fine tune the adjustment by hand if needed, straps can take some load off if that is an issue.
OP
No, I'm not changing springs. Lift height will remain the same.
Are you saying, jack the rig up so that it's weight is supported at the frame by jack stands, remove the coil springs, then lift the diff up to ride height, then adjust the arms? If so, that sounds very reasonable.
Exactly. Removing the springs to do that also allows for checking axle at bump, which is critical. To make sure you don’t need to move the axle forward or backward for clearances. Cycling is fun
And I would wait until your have the TT and SYE done since you’ll need to point the pinion you at the TC. You can then also throw your tires and shocks on to check clearances and make sure nothing hits, all while the springs are off and nothing fights you.
The steps I would take:
(Pull springs at any point before step 3)
1. Get the belly at it’s final height (Tucked)
2. Install the SYE and driveshaft
3. Lengthen the upper arms until your pinion is approx in line with the TC at ride height (using the jack stand to get there)
4. Shorten the lower slightly if your diff hits the gas tank, then shorten the upper until the driveshaft angle is correct again. Lengthen both if you still have plenty of room.
5. Check full bump and side to side bump to make sure nothing hits, if you need to lengthen lowers, you’ll most likely want to lengthen uppers as well and vice versa. Add or subtract bumpstop as needed to prevent damage.
6. At this point the axle should be as far back as possible without hitting anything through the suspension travel, with the pinion pointed right at the TC output.
7. Reinstall springs, and check driveshaft angle again to make sure your ride height was correct when you were setting it up.
8. (Optional) Meet up with me and have me reweld the upper spring buckets to get rid of the bowed rear coil spring
The benefit of pushing the axle back as far as it can go without interference at full bump is that when the Jeep is at ride height the axles come forward, the farther back you can push it without contact, the more centered in the wheel well it will be at ride height.
Also added note - trim the spring buckets to make sure the shocks don’t get wrecked, rotating the pinion up for the tummy tuck will make them hit at droop.
(Pull springs at any point before step 3)
1. Get the belly at it’s final height (Tucked)
2. Install the SYE and driveshaft
3. Lengthen the upper arms until your pinion is approx in line with the TC at ride height (using the jack stand to get there)
4. Shorten the lower slightly if your diff hits the gas tank, then shorten the upper until the driveshaft angle is correct again. Lengthen both if you still have plenty of room.
5. Check full bump and side to side bump to make sure nothing hits, if you need to lengthen lowers, you’ll most likely want to lengthen uppers as well and vice versa. Add or subtract bumpstop as needed to prevent damage.
6. At this point the axle should be as far back as possible without hitting anything through the suspension travel, with the pinion pointed right at the TC output.
7. Reinstall springs, and check driveshaft angle again to make sure your ride height was correct when you were setting it up.
8. (Optional) Meet up with me and have me reweld the upper spring buckets to get rid of the bowed rear coil spring
The benefit of pushing the axle back as far as it can go without interference at full bump is that when the Jeep is at ride height the axles come forward, the farther back you can push it without contact, the more centered in the wheel well it will be at ride height.
Also added note - trim the spring buckets to make sure the shocks don’t get wrecked, rotating the pinion up for the tummy tuck will make them hit at droop.
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Keep in mind, the pinion angle relationship in the front is going to change with your TT. That could, or could not present some vibe issues of your front DS. Although not as critical due to a longer front DS, the pinion still likes to be close to same angle as the DS, just like the rear. Just wanted to put that out there in case you develop vibes and want to immediately blame the rear DS.
OP
This is gold ^^^The steps I would take:
(Pull springs at any point before step 3)
1. Get the belly at it’s final height (Tucked)
2. Install the SYE and driveshaft
3. Lengthen the upper arms until your pinion is approx in line with the TC at ride height (using the jack stand to get there)
4. Shorten the lower slightly if your diff hits the gas tank, then shorten the upper until the driveshaft angle is correct again. Lengthen both if you still have plenty of room.
5. Check full bump and side to side bump to make sure nothing hits, if you need to lengthen lowers, you’ll most likely want to lengthen uppers as well and vice versa. Add or subtract bumpstop as needed to prevent damage.
6. At this point the axle should be as far back as possible without hitting anything through the suspension travel, with the pinion pointed right at the TC output.
7. Reinstall springs, and check driveshaft angle again to make sure your ride height was correct when you were setting it up.
8. (Optional) Meet up with me and have me reweld the upper spring buckets to get rid of the bowed rear coil spring
The benefit of pushing the axle back as far as it can go without interference at full bump is that when the Jeep is at ride height the axles come forward, the farther back you can push it without contact, the more centered in the wheel well it will be at ride height.
Also added note - trim the spring buckets to make sure the shocks don’t get wrecked, rotating the pinion up for the tummy tuck will make them hit at droop.
It has changed my order of install.
With the crossmember installed it will give me more space to work underneath!
question:
Should I go ahead and put my arms on in advance? I could just set them stock and install them one by one.
I already have some shock relocation brackets installed, so my shock body should still clear with the pinion tilted.
No harm in putting the arms on now, just set them the same length as the ones taking off and change out one by one like you said. You shouldn’t need to pull spring to do that part or jack the Jeep up, just throw them on! Crossmember with no skid will make it all easier and give some nice room when you get thereThis is gold ^^^
It has changed my order of install.
With the crossmember installed it will give me more space to work underneath!
question:
Should I go ahead and put my arms on in advance? I could just set them stock and install them one by one.
I already have some shock relocation brackets installed, so my shock body should still clear with the pinion tilted.
I didn’t realize you have shock relocation brackets, that makes it easy!
Lose the relocation brackets and trim the lower perch when the time comes. You're losing shock travel with those brackets.
OP
You're just in Corvallis. I could make my way over some time for a re-weld of the rear perches to avoid the spring bow! Only 434 miles.No harm in putting the arms on now, just set them the same length as the ones taking off and change out one by one like you said. You shouldn’t need to pull spring to do that part or jack the Jeep up, just throw them on! Crossmember with no skid will make it all easier and give some nice room when you get there
Great help by the way, super helpful in getting my thoughts together.
Interesting you're saying to push the axle back as far as possible. I've always heard to line up the bumpstops and not worry about how far the axle is pushed back.The steps I would take:
(Pull springs at any point before step 3)
1. Get the belly at it’s final height (Tucked)
2. Install the SYE and driveshaft
3. Lengthen the upper arms until your pinion is approx in line with the TC at ride height (using the jack stand to get there)
4. Shorten the lower slightly if your diff hits the gas tank, then shorten the upper until the driveshaft angle is correct again. Lengthen both if you still have plenty of room.
5. Check full bump and side to side bump to make sure nothing hits, if you need to lengthen lowers, you’ll most likely want to lengthen uppers as well and vice versa. Add or subtract bumpstop as needed to prevent damage.
6. At this point the axle should be as far back as possible without hitting anything through the suspension travel, with the pinion pointed right at the TC output.
7. Reinstall springs, and check driveshaft angle again to make sure your ride height was correct when you were setting it up.
8. (Optional) Meet up with me and have me reweld the upper spring buckets to get rid of the bowed rear coil spring
The benefit of pushing the axle back as far as it can go without interference at full bump is that when the Jeep is at ride height the axles come forward, the farther back you can push it without contact, the more centered in the wheel well it will be at ride height.
Also added note - trim the spring buckets to make sure the shocks don’t get wrecked, rotating the pinion up for the tummy tuck will make them hit at droop.
I like more driveshaft length if possible, on a lift with an extreme TT it helps. I would relocate the upper spring perch- so yes, the bumps would line up. Preferences
Also if my bumps were in line in stock location, my tires would hit the front of the wheel well at bump. They will only line up if you are on stock length arms. That’s the only way. Also having his pinion rotated up to that amount, the lower spring perch is going to be nowhere near in line with the stock upper perch. More vertical. And pushing it back to the gas tank skid limit is not the really that much more than normal.