05 Flame Red TJ Build

[JMT]

Correct. MC springs are dumb in my opinion. Live and learn i guess. I had to rotate the front axle enough that the front collapsed part of the coil vibrates against the spring/shock bracket.

Yeah, the collapsed portion acts basically like a spacer till it starts to droop and then the coils open up a bit to keep it from unseating. I think I’d like a true progressive coil like JKS 3”, but that’s just more money.

Im going to be frustrated if this is too much angle for my front DS. But I may have a pretty pain free option I need to check into. Thanks for the heads up. I was hoping to start putting some money elsewhere. I guess it’s true, Just Empty Every Pocket.

 

[Vasq]

Yeah, the collapsed portion acts basically like a spacer till it starts to droop and then the coils open up a bit to keep it from unseating. I think I’d like a true progressive coil like JKS 3”, but that’s just more money.

Yeah I plan on replacing them with Savvy or JKS

Im going to be frustrated if this is too much angle for my front DS. But I may have a pretty pain free option I need to check into. Thanks for the heads up. I was hoping to start putting some money elsewhere. I guess it’s true, Just Empty Every Pocket.

Going to cannibalize the XJ already huh

 

[JMT]

Yeah I plan on replacing them with Savvy or JKS


Going to cannibalize the XJ already huh

Maybe. So far the TJ has been the donor for the XJ so I can justify getting new parts for the TJ. Wife even said, move the wheels over and get new ones for yours.

 

[JMT]

So, on the Savvy Aluminum skid plate, what do you all suggest for metal protector? Sadly I learned that we get a little salt up here in the winter.

1) Sharkhide ($$$$)
2) Amsoil MP ($$)
3) Cosmoline Military Rust Preventative ($$)
4) Sprayaway New Metal Parts Protector ($$)
5) CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor ($)
6) Other???

 

[jodomcfrodo]

I've run both my gas tank skid and under armor without a single protectant for years. The gas tank skid looks fine considering I've bashed it many times. It has been on there for something around 5 years now. The under armor has been on there for a year and looks like it did new minus a few scratches. It probably isn't worth the money or time putting any protectant on it.

 

[bobthetj03]

Your drive shafts are going to think you have a 6" lift after the TT. At the least you may need adjustable uppers for the front to make pinion angle adjustments. Hopefully it will be good and I'm just scaring you, lol!

 

[JMT]

Your drive shafts are going to think you have a 6" lift after the TT. At the least you may need adjustable uppers for the front to make pinion angle adjustments. Hopefully it will be good and I'm just scaring you, lol!

Yeah, I had not thought of it before, but you made me think, 3" + 3" = 6", that's a lot of lift. I have mixed feelings about that.

 

[bobthetj03]

Yeah, I had not thought of it before, but you made me think, 3" + 3" = 6", that's a lot of lift. I have mixed feelings about that.

Yep, and you won't be able to lower your TT skid either if you do get vibes. Not that you would want to lower it, cause what's the point after doing all that work, right?

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Yeah, I had not thought of it before, but you made me think, 3" + 3" = 6", that's a lot of lift. I have mixed feelings about that.

One of the many reasons to get all 8 arms, @jjvw is on 7.5” of effective lift I think.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

One of the nice things about doing this in stages is you can see if problems like vibes are an issue before ordering the other arms, you might get lucky!

 

[JMT]

One of the nice things about doing this in stages is you can see if problems like vibes are an issue before ordering the other arms, you might get lucky!

That has worked for me so far, very well actually. I have always only done one thing at a time so that if I have a problem, I at least have a reference point for the solution.

It's amazing in the grand scheme that this has fooled me twice.

Once I changed my spark plugs with iridium tipped, went out and the Jeep wouldn't start. $%^&*(#$? Of course, I thought spark plugs. It turned out to be the actuator that just happened to break between starts right after the spark plugs. At least I got it fixed and was able to make the wheelin trip that day thanks to @KCsTJ help!

More interesting was the Brown Dog MML. I did it without the BL and just moved my shroud up 1". That evening I got DW. I called Tim at Brown Dog. He swore up and down it was not the MML. After quite awhile trying to solve the DW, @mrblaine discussed change in frame rigidity due to the changed location of the motor relative to the frame. So, in effect, it was a result of the MML, but not in a direct sense. That's when I began to appreciate the finer nuances of building a rig, though I still consider myself a neophyte.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

That has worked for me so far, very well actually. I have always only done one thing at a time so that if I have a problem, I at least have a reference point for the solution.

It's amazing in the grand scheme that this has fooled me twice.

Once I changed my spark plugs with iridium tipped, went out and the Jeep wouldn't start. $%^&*(#$? Of course, I thought spark plugs. It turned out to be the actuator that just happened to break between starts right after the spark plugs. At least I got it fixed and was able to make the wheelin trip that day thanks to @KCsTJ help!

More interesting was the Brown Dog MML. I did it without the BL and just moved my shroud up 1". That evening I got DW. I called Tim at Brown Dog. He swore up and down it was not the MML. After quite awhile trying to solve the DW, @mrblaine discussed change in frame rigidity due to the changed location of the motor relative to the frame. So, in effect, it was a result of the MML, but not in a direct sense. That's when I began to appreciate the finer nuances of building a rig, though I still consider myself a neophyte.

It’s been covered on here before, but the same goes for long arm vs short arm debate - when only one factor is changed in that equation the differences are tiny. But often times when people put on a “long arm” lift they are also doing shocks, tires, joints, and springs. Then saying the long arms are the reason the ride is so good. Blaine has said many times he can take someone for a test drive in a short arm or mid arm and they feel no different on the road all factors being equal in other components. You isolating each factor to see the changes helps to build that understanding Looking forward to seeing the progress!

 

[Fouledplugs]

I do wonder, was it just killing you having those Savvy parts in raw? You just had to paint them, didn't you?

Most would do mock up in raw and then once they know everything fits, take it all apart, paint it, and then put it all back together painted.

 

[JMT]

I do wonder, was it just killing you having those Savvy parts in raw? You just had to paint them, didn't you?

Most would do mock up in raw and then once they know everything fits, take it all apart, paint it, and then put it all back together painted.

Well, not everything you see here is everything. I actually got the Savvy MUA in January. The white primer underneath is so hard I can’t beat it off with a rock. I kind of wish I had top-coated it with silver, but here we are! The skid will remain silver. It mocks up, though I did not mock up hardware, yet! But that’s next.

 

[DuncLJ]

You got a nice pile of parts there. Looking forward to seeing it all come together.

 

[JMT]

Got the rear upper CA’s installed. Now that that is accomplished, I can start installing the Savvy MUA this Thursday. Once I get the crossmember installed, I’ll remove the rear driveshaft and take a drive to see if I have vibes with just the front DS.

 

[bobthetj03]

Maybe it's the angle of your pic, does it looks like one of the joints is cockeyed? Sometimes you have to jamb a large screwdriver in the between joint and the inside of the mount bracket when you tighten the jamb nut, otherwise you put a preload on the bushing and it sits cockeyed.

 

[JMT]

Maybe it's the angle of your pic, does it looks like one of the joints is cockeyed? Sometimes you have to jamb a large screwdriver in the between joint and the inside of the mount bracket when you tighten the jamb nut, otherwise you put a preload on the bushing and it sits cockeyed.

Thanks for the heads up. I just checked and they were all centered.

 

[JMT]

Here’s where I am with the Savvy MUA. If I can get the outer C’s on. This is not tight, this is insane. Someone should do something about this.

TCase is hitting the crossmember

Removing the body mounts to slip the outer C on.

removing the OEM Skid for the last time

whoever first called it a”shovel” wasn’t kidding.

exhaust hanger bushing came out easy.

goes in easy too. I wish the outer C’s were this easy. Geez, another 1/8” wide and they’d be fine.

Rear DS.

Front DS

close up of Front DS

where things are headed.

 

[Alex01]

Here’s where I am with the Savvy MUA. If I can get the outer C’s on. This is not tight, this is insane. Someone should do something about this.

TCase is hitting the crossmember

Removing the body mounts to slip the outer C on.
View attachment 157569

removing the OEM Skid for the last timeView attachment 157571

whoever first called it a”shovel” wasn’t kidding.
View attachment 157570

exhaust hanger bushing came out easy.View attachment 157572

goes in easy too. I wish the outer C’s were this easy. Geez, another 1/8” wide and they’d be fine.View attachment 157573
Rear DS.
View attachment 157574
Front DSView attachment 157575
close up of Front DS
View attachment 157576
where things are headed.
View attachment 157577

That rear DS picture is gold.