4.0 lifter replacement questions

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BlueFl.Wrangler

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Looking for some tech info on lifter replacement, Who on here has changed out the lifters or re- installed them after a head removal.

I have a lifter draining down, when I first got the jeep last year , it would drain down if the jeep was not run for a few days straight. Now its draining down overnight every night. I have been putting this off but now am probably gonna deal with it. I have experience with adjusting hydraulic lifters in small & big block chevys. But I saw a YT video where this guy who always seems pretty good with his jeep-- he states that adjusting the 4.0 is way different than the typical GM engines. He "snugs" all of them down , then goes over them with a torque wrench to 19 #ft torque-- all in the same position with out rotating the cam to adjust them on the bottom side of the cam lobe. To me, with them being @ all different positions on the lobe, just doest make sense to me--the ones on the bottom would be tight & the ones on the high end of the cam lobe would be loose compared to each other.

Does his way sound correct? Is that the correct way to adjust them?— Would really like to hear from you fellas that have done it

Check out the video- only 1:15 minutes is important- from 16:45 to the 18 minute mark and tell me what you guys think

 
You can’t adjust the valves on a 4.0. They are adjusted via the installed height method when the cylinder head was assembled. If you have lifter bleed down, check to make sure the oil filter you use has an anti-drain back valve.
 
How do I do that- I have one of those black mopar filters
So I have to find the installed height method?
 
How do I do that- I have one of those black mopar filters
So I have to find the installed height method?
The valve grinder who rebuilds the head would do it when he’s done. He checks the height of the valve stem and grinds the end down on a precision machine to get the height within spec. It’s a gamble to replace lifters without replacing the cam.
 
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Lifter noise is common on the 4.0. Changing brands or types of oil can help to keep them quiet. For example if you are running Valvoline switch to Quaker State or from Synthetic to Conventional. The startup tick isn't going to hurt anything. I get it every time I wait a little too long to change the oil, it's a good reminder.
 
As stated above there is no valve adjustment on our 4.0's. The hydraulic lifters do the adjusting for the valves.
I was not asking about valve adjustment
And I understand how hydraulic lifters work
Thanks anyway
 
The valve grinder who rebuilds the head would do it when he’s done. He checks the height of the valve stem and grinds the end down on a precision machine to get the height within spec. It’s a gamble to replace lifters without replacing the cam.
So is what you are saying that my head has to be rebuilt to change the lifters?:confused:
 
So is what you are saying that my head has to be rebuilt to change the lifters?:confused:
No, if you want to adjust the valves you’ll need to have the head rebuilt or just have the installed height checked. I don’t recommend replacing lifters without changing the cam, like I said it’s a gamble. If you’re a gambling man, by all means, replace the lifters and torque the rocker arms to spec and see what happens. Seems like a lot of labor for the risk to me.
 
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I think the way you titled the thread and asked your question might have thrown people off. As stated, there is no adjustability in the stock valve train. If you are asking about the proper procedure to torque down the rocker arms, yes, the procedure you mentioned works fine.
 
Another vote to only change lifters if also changing cam. I've seen them eat each other in way less than 1,000 miles. Lifter tick on startup is 'normal' on a 4.0. Actually its pretty normal on any straight 6 engine.
 
To address your concern about turning the engine while torquing down the rockers, the 4.0 is not an interference engine. Meaning that the valves will not hit the pistons at normal cam lift.
 
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To address your concern about turning the engine while torquing down the rockers, the 4.0 is not an interference engine. Meaning that the valves will not hit the pistons at normal cam lift.
My concern was if they are all torqued in one position-- ( meaning not rotating the cam so they are all set @ the same spot on the cam lobe ) some would be over tight and some would be under tight
 
Don’t be concerned, just torque them down.

I'm following the OP's concern...if you're on top of a lobe you'll be torqueing against a valve spring as the rock arm pushes the valve open. Do the hydraulic lifters collapse sufficiently during the assembly process that you can be at the top of a lobe without opening a valve?
 
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I'm following the OP's concern...if you're on top of a lobe you'll be torqueing against a valve spring as the rock arm pushes the valve open. Do the hydraulic lifters collapse sufficiently during the assembly process that you can be at the top of a lobe without opening a valve?
It’s not going to hurt a thing torquing down the rocker arms while on a cam lobe. Sure, it’ll open the valve, isn’t that what it’s supposed to do?
 
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