What weak points should I upgrade?

[Shazbot]

I have a 2003 Rubicon. Ive done a 3.5 inch lift, 285 tires, double carden driveshaft, reinforced tailgate hinges, bumper and winch. It wheels great, two summers so far problem free.

What Im wondering is what parts are most likely to break on the trail and is it worth it to upgrade ahead of time rather than wait till they break?

I've been told the U Joints can be a problem and I should upgrade to RCVs. Also that i should think about upgrading the tie rod.

Thoughts?

 

[Feralkid]

Definitely swap in a v8 zj tierod.

Front lower control arm axle brackets will get boogered eventually. Weld on skids are easier to install before the boogering happens.

33 inch tires dont need rcv axles.

 

[pagrey]

If you've wheeled for years problem free you're good to go. Just maintain it. I only did the ZJ tie rod after I bent the stock one a few times. Let your damage be your guide.

 

[Daryl]

If you've wheeled for years problem free you're good to go. Just maintain it. I only did the ZJ tie rod after I bent the stock one a few times. Let your damage be your guide.

This right here. Drive it & enjoy it. Just do your normal preventative maintenance. When something wears out, it’ll let you know.

 

[billiebob]

The most likely parts to break are the parts not properly maintained. Taller tires and lifts add stress making driveline maintenance even more important.

 

[Shazbot]

If you've wheeled for years problem free you're good to go. Just maintain it. I only did the ZJ tie rod after I bent the stock one a few times. Let your damage be your guide.

Thanks for your response. Im guessing it'll be pretty obvious when my tie rod is bent?

As im getting into more hardcore stuff I just want to make sure I'm not stuck out on a trail somewhere. If something breaks but I can still limp home, that's ok.

 

[Daryl]

Thanks for your response. Im guessing it'll be pretty obvious when my tie rod is bent?

As im getting into more hardcore stuff I just want to make sure I'm not stuck out on a trail somewhere. If something breaks but I can still limp home, that's ok.

Rule number one, never wheel alone.

 

[Shazbot]

The most likely parts to break are the parts not properly maintained. Taller tires and lifts add stress making driveline maintenance even more important.

Can you clarify? When I bring it to the shop for servicing, what do I need to focus on other than the usual oil, diffs etc?

 

[Shazbot]

Rule number one, never wheel alone.

Oh I'm always in a group

 

[pagrey]

Im guessing it'll be pretty obvious when my tie rod is bent?

Ya, and normally easy to bend back on the trail. You could buy a spare u-joint to carry, that's good insurance for your front axle if you are concerned about those. I wouldn't replace them in advance.

 

[Shazbot]

Ya, and normally easy to bend back on the trail. You could buy a spare u-joint to carry, that's good insurance for your front axle if you are concerned about those. I wouldn't replace them in advance.

When U Joints fail, what does everyone recommend for an upgrade?

 

[Daryl]

When U Joints fail, what does everyone recommend for an upgrade?

The non-greasable spicers.

 

[AMS417]

Upgrade the front u joints at least. I broke a stock axle on 33’s recently but believe it was a u joint failure that caused it. I’d say chromoly front axles with u joints if you want. RCV are probably overkill, but you pretty much 100% won’t break them on 33’s.

 

[Chris]

Upgrade the axle shafts front and rear, preferably Revolution shafts in the rear and either Revolution in the front or RCV in the front.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Upgrade the axle shafts front and rear, preferably Revolution shafts in the rear and either Revolution in the front or RCV in the front.

I wonder why RCV makes a front and rear shaft for Jk but only front for the tj. Probably market.

 

[Chris]

I wonder why RCV makes a front and rear shaft for Jk but only front for the tj. Probably market.

I suspect that's correct.

Plus what is RCV hoping to solve with rear shafts? Their whole premise is that CV joints are better than u-joints. Well, there's no u-joints on the rear shafts

 

[Shazbot]

Upgrade the axle shafts front and rear, preferably Revolution shafts in the rear and either Revolution in the front or RCV in the front.

Do you think it's worth doing this ahead of time? Or wait till something fails then upgrade? As mentioned, I have 285s on it now so not a huge tire.

 

[BuildBreakRepeat]

Do you think it's worth doing this ahead of time? Or wait till something fails then upgrade? As mentioned, I have 285s on it now so not a huge tire.

I’d run it, if it brakes - then upgrade.

 

[AndyG]

Definitely swap in a v8 zj tierod.

Front lower control arm axle brackets will get boogered eventually. Weld on skids are easier to install before the boogering happens.

33 inch tires dont need rcv axles.

I lean towards this ...beef up the axle end track bar bolt /bushing if possible, ZJ tie rod, and keep a lower right control arm bracket on the shelf or beef it up if you wheel in rocks are all good moves...at the same time, they are pretty tough stock.

I like scaling components larger for the big tires.

 

[DWR]

The non-greasable spicers.

Why the non-greasable ones? I would think greasable would be the better option