Frankenstein Control Arms

[2006TJ1]

I've been running a 2.5" lift on stock control arms for over a year now; I assume the control arms are original. The bushings are clearly shot by now: they are all cracked, I get some weird pops when the weight of the jeep shifts from accelerating, etc. It's time for new control arms. Due to being a college student with no money, and being completely out of work from ~Covid-19~ I really didn't have the money for a nice set of Savvy double adjustables like I'd love to have. I don't wheel all that much so I have been eyeing the Core Tier 2 arms for a while, but at $800-$900 they are still out of my price range.

A month or so ago I found full a set of Rough Country arms on FB Marketplace for $50 and decided I could probably restore them to be about as good as the Tier 2 arms. Here is what they looked like when I picked them up

I have since completely pulled all of the dog shit X-flex joints out and knocked all of the rubber bushings out of the ends. I essentially plan to reuse the tubing from the arms but make them far better quality, but I wanted some eyes on my plan before I order everything.

For the flex joints, I plan to replace those with Johnny Joints. I considered DDBs, but having seen some question as to the durability and longevity, I just don't have the money, time, or desire to find out how well they hold up. I have not verified the thread sizes yet, but after some research I believe the lowers are 1-1/4" and the uppers are 3/4". I believe the JJs I need are the CE-9114 for the lowers (x4) and the CE-9112N75-12 (I think?) for the uppers (x2). I will do the front upper JJ kit eventually but for now I'll leave the stock bushings. A couple questions regarding the JJ ends: can I reuse the stock hardware (bolts, flag nuts, etc) or do I need to get the JJs that come with the greasable bolts? Also Im assuming to only use the RJ/Currie grease with the JJs?

For the bushing end, I think I will end up having to use poly ends. I have looked and cannot find any companies that offer flanged split rubber bushings in the wide range of sizes that companies like Prothane and Energy offer poly bushings in. The ones I removed from the RC arms seem to be rubber and have part numbers printed on them, but I found nothing when I tried to look them up. The lower bushing has a 1.5" OD (not the flange side) and 1/2 is 1" long. I should be able to replace them with these from Prothane. For the upper bushing end, I'm struggling to find anything complete, the bushing itself has a 1.5" OD as well but it 7/8" long. It has MO2437 printed on it, and if I looked that up, I get linked to these poly bushings from Skyjacker. I would rather use better quality but it seems they might be my only option. They don't even come with a sleeve, so I will likely have to buy some 3/4" OD, .5" ID steel sleeve and cut to the length I need.
One thing I wasnt sure of was if I could just buy 1" long bushings and shave them down to 7/8" potentially? I couldn't find much info about this on the Internet.

My biggest question regarding the arms is if I am screwing myself by using a JJ with a poly end. I know the Tier 2 Core arms are recommended for those that don't wheel too much or too seriously, and I think that would be fine for me. I am perfectly acceptable knowing my setup may not articulate as well as a double-JJ arm would, but I don't want to waste my money on JJs for these RC arms if the poly end is going to ruin them or limit all of the flex.

Oh and to compare costs--
Core 4x4 Tier 2 arms with no hardware: $820

Frankenstein setup: $480
Arms- $50
JJs- 6 @ $60 - $360
Poly bushings- 6 @ ~$8 a piece- ~$50
Jam Nuts- Reuse from RC
Clean & Paint- ~$20

I'm really hoping for feedback, advices, and critiques before I drop some coin so please let me know what you think!

 

[Midtenn]

I understand the RC "X" flex joints looked bad, but were they actually bad? Seems like you could have saved some coin by trying to refurbish those joints versus going to straight to Savvy. I'm out an outlier on the forum in that I'm not so sure everyone needs $1,000 control arms.

 

[-T.]

With 2.5" of lift and not wheeling much, you could pick up new OEM control arms for a song and just use adjustable uppers in the back if you need to adjust the pinion a bit.

 

[Ephry73]

Albeit, those control arms don't look too bad, specially if the bushings could be greased with zerk fittings

 

[2006TJ1]

I understand the RC "X" flex joints looked bad, but were they actually bad? Seems like you could have saved some coin by trying to refurbish those joints versus going to straight to Savvy. I'm out an outlier on the forum in that I'm not so sure everyone needs $1,000 control arms.

I've read nothing but horrible reviews so while I don't have first hand experience I have no desire to investigate how long they last. I'd spend almost as much money and way more time rebuilding them as I will buying Johnny Joints and there's a good chance I could go years without having to touch the JJs.

I totally understand not wanting to spend $1k+, as that's what I'm trying to avoid as well. But I do still want to build a quality set and I don't think the RC joints and quality belong in the same sentence.

 

[2006TJ1]

With 2.5" of lift and not wheeling much, you could pick up new OEM control arms for a song and just use adjustable uppers in the back if you need to adjust the pinion a bit.

I plan to do a tummy tuck so I need full adjustability.

 

[Chris]

I want to see the after photos

 

[2006TJ1]

Trying to get more eyes on this to get some feedback. Might have to tag some of the experts.

 

[jesseshoots]

If you want to throw on some JJ's on the adjustable end you'll get plenty of flex out of this setup. My only concern looking at the pic is how much shank is exposed on the rear uppers. With a 3/4" shank JJ there is about 2-1/8" of thread.

I'd run the rubber bushings that are already in there since there won't be any benefits gained by swapping to two piece poly bushings.

If you need any help and are still around Atlanta just let me know.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

I understand the RC "X" flex joints looked bad, but were they actually bad? Seems like you could have saved some coin by trying to refurbish those joints versus going to straight to Savvy. I'm out an outlier on the forum in that I'm not so sure everyone needs $1,000 control arms.

When new the preload felt similar to a JJ. Now, with 15,000 miles, and greased every 3k they have zero, and I do mean zero, preload left in them. As in, if I let the axle end loose and let it swing by the x-flex joint, it'll go like the pendulum on a grandfather clock. I expect in another year or less they'll have discernible slack. I've got 2 CE-9114 JJ's waiting to be put in the rear and once I've confirmed 100% they'll work I'll get two more for the front. RC was giving me different thread sizes and measurements depending on what day I contacted them, but they measure right with my calipers. The last thing I haven't confirmed is making sure I can match the same length I have with the RC joint. I have no reason to believe I can't, I just haven't checked.

My rubber bushings are still in good shape so I'll probably run those for a while. It seems like they shouldn't have as much rotation around the bolt axis being that they're on the axle end, so I think they'll probably give me a few years. When they do fail, I'll consider Core Tier 4's or Savvy's to match my uppers, or if I've built up enough welding skills to be confident by then I might cut the barrels off and weld JJ housings to that end, too.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

For the bushing end, I think I will end up having to use poly ends. I have looked and cannot find any companies that offer flanged split rubber bushings in the wide range of sizes that companies like Prothane and Energy offer poly bushings in.

have you contacted Rough Country about replacement rubber bushings? Say what you will about their product, but I've always found their customer service to be pretty decent. They've helped me multiple times with the sway bar disconnects that I didn't even buy (my TJ's previous owner did), even sending me replacement parts for free without any proof of purchase.

I would put new rubbers back in before I ever put a poly bushing in it.

 

[2006TJ1]

If you want to throw on some JJ's on the adjustable end you'll get plenty of flex out of this setup. My only concern looking at the pic is how much shank is exposed on the rear uppers. With a 3/4" shank JJ there is about 2-1/8" of thread.

I'd run the rubber bushings that are already in there since there won't be any benefits gained by swapping to two piece poly bushings.

If you need any help and are still around Atlanta just let me know.

I'll measure the links and see if they were just super extended for some reason. I saw online somewhere that the stock uppers are something like 13.5" so I'll see how long my upper would be with a JJ of that length.

The sleeves in the bushings were destroyed so I could reuse them but they'd need new sleeves for sure. They are already split half-bushings though, so maybe they aren't even rubber? I don't know for sure, they just feel like rubber rather than poly.

I'm currently OTP but by August I'll be in my new place in Midtown, if I have an any trouble I'll reach out!

 

[2006TJ1]

have you contacted Rough Country about replacement rubber bushings? Say what you will about their product, but I've always found their customer service to be pretty decent. They've helped me multiple times with the sway bar disconnects that I didn't even buy (my TJ's previous owner did), even sending me replacement parts for free without any proof of purchase.

I would put new rubbers back in before I ever put a poly bushing in it.

I reached out a while ago when I first picked up the arms, but they only were able to find the bushings for the lowers. They are $13 a piece + the tech wasn't sure if they came with new sleeves or not. And I really need the sleeves the most.

I've heard nothing but bad things about poly on here, but I'm questioning whether I have a choice. I will not mix and match rubber and poly with the uppers and lowers, so all poly might be my only choice. With the JJs on one end, the stiffness of the poly may not be an issue?

 

[freedom_in_4low]

I reached out a while ago when I first picked up the arms, but they only were able to find the bushings for the lowers. They are $13 a piece + the tech wasn't sure if they came with new sleeves or not. And I really need the sleeves the most.

What came in mine (bought new in 2017) is a "clevite" style bonded rubber bushing, so it has to have inner and outer sleeves because the rubber is bonded to them.

I don't have part numbers for you but with some research I would think they'd be available. My first look would be at the stock bushings used in stock control arms, because if I was Rough Country that's what I would use because there's already a billion of them out there and they would be cheap.

What you have looks like a polyurethane bushing. It does come in different stiffnesses (referred to as durometer hardness) so maybe they're just on the softer side and that's why they feel like rubber.

I positively mentioned RC's customer service earlier...and while it is true that they'll usually do what they can to help you out, sometimes you get someone who doesn't seem like they've ever actually laid their hands on the part they're trying to help with.

 

[2006TJ1]

What came in mine (bought new in 2017) is a "clevite" style bonded rubber bushing, so it has to have inner and outer sleeves because the rubber is bonded to them.

View attachment 170908

I don't have part numbers for you but with some research I would think they'd be available. My first look would be at the stock bushings used in stock control arms, because if I was Rough Country that's what I would use because there's already a billion of them out there and they would be cheap.

What you have looks like a polyurethane bushing. It does come in different stiffnesses (referred to as durometer hardness) so maybe they're just on the softer side and that's why they feel like rubber.

I positively mentioned RC's customer service earlier...and while it is true that they'll usually do what they can to help you out, sometimes you get someone who doesn't seem like they've ever actually laid their hands on the part they're trying to help with.

Yeah, obviously mine look nothing like that. Both of the half-bushings have part numbers on them but when I look them up there's nothing worthwhile. I've found several old forum discussions but none of the links work. I'm guessing these arms are pretty old, or at least a few iterations back from RCs current TJ arms. Given that mine have no outer sleeve they likely are poly.

If you had a quality flex joint on one end that has enough misalignment for full travel, what would stop you from running a poly bushing?

 

[freedom_in_4low]

If you had a quality flex joint on one end that has enough misalignment for full travel, what would stop you from running a poly bushing?

Obviously the arm swinging around the axis of the bolt - not a problem.
Twisting of the arm around the axis of the arm body, probably also not a problem with a good flex joint at the opposite end.
My concern, and I'm admittedly spitballing a bit here because I haven't actually measured this, but when the axle shifts side to side following the arc of the track bar, the arms want to swing around an axis perpendicular to the other two and that's an area where poly bushings aren't ideal.

Not saying it's for sure a problem, I would just want to make sure it wasn't before I expected decent flex out of my suspension.