Air lockers vs. electric lockers

[Wildman]

You run the AirRock system? Does it integrate any controls into it's system like it does for the swayloc?

Yes I have the AiRock system on my TJ and no it doesn't control the lockers at all just the suspension and the SwayLoc.

I don't have any personal experience with ARB lockers but I have two good friends that have both had issues with the seals leaking inside. Perhaps those are just one of the those normal maintenance type things? I have Eatons front & rear and have been really happy with them.

ARB use to recommend that you lock in your hubs (if you have them on the front axle) once a month for a few miles to lube the seals.

 

[Wildman]

A

What about other air lockers, Yukon, Ox?

Are you asking do they have seal issues also?

 

[Apparition]

Everytime I hear or read seal, I think of this



Back on topic though it seems that it’s really up to personal preference, price, availability on what you pick.

 

[Wildman]

Back on topic though it seems that it’s really up to personal preference, price, availability on what you pick.

More or less like everything else we do to our rigs. Of course there are those who seem to want to TELL us how to spend our money and such but that's just human nature.

 

[SvtLdr]

What about other air lockers, Yukon, Ox?

It's my understanding that the Yukon Zip locker is very similar to the design/ function of the ARB utilizing the same types of inner seals.
The OX is really a different animal though. The locker itself will always be operated mechanically with a cable. The shifting mechanism can be activated with an air solenoid (or electric) somewhere outside of the differential housing.
https://ox-usa.com/content/21-shifter-selection

 

[Sj's TJ]

I recently destroyed by ARB, not ARB's fault I bent up my housing, and the one thing I will say is that replacement parts can be had, but can be expensive. For example, I destroyed the splines on one of my spider gears and I can't buy one spider gear, I'd have to buy the whole set which is almost $600. Including new seals and washers and you are closing in on new locker price.

I have heard great things about the Yukon Zip locker. As mentioned above, its very similar in design to the ARB, but the availability of parts seems to be better and you can buy individual parts. In addition, they have a warranty card that covers a great deal. I don't personally have one as I'm going to be running a detroit. If I were you I would look into a Zip locker and compare to ARB if is air is the way you go.

 

[ErikOffroad]

I installed a super 35 rear with a Eaton e locker. I called 4lowparts and got everything from them. I like it, no complaints. I have a Yukon grizzly locker in the front and it works well too. It’s a auto locker. I don’t hear any noise from it driving on the street, and it locks right up when in 4wd. When I go to build my wife’s jl I will probably put eatons in front and rear.
The Eaton is simple. Drill one hole in the diff and run two wires through it and pop in the rubber grommet. No air lines or anything else to deal with. It came with a really nice harness for the switch, power and relay. I’d definitely recommend the e locker.

 

[B00mb00m]

They are BIG

Yup, this is my only complaint with the Ox. I too like that can be locked with bolt. I have the Ox in the rear, the air aspect of it is a very simple seal so that is nice. In the front I have the JK rubicon electric and the routing and setup is just so easy I'd do electric again for the future but I'd do an Eaton not rubi if it goes.

 

[B00mb00m]

What about other air lockers, Yukon, Ox?

The ox locker seal is just a 1" diameter or so piston in the diff cover, about as little sealing area as you can get IMO.

 

[Wildman]

Yup, this is my only complaint with the Ox. I too like that can be locked with bolt. I have the Ox in the rear, the air aspect of it is a very simple seal so that is nice. In the front I have the JK rubicon electric and the routing and setup is just so easy I'd do electric again for the future but I'd do an Eaton not rubi if it goes.

Nice to hear from someone who has an OX.

 

[WSS]

In 17-18 years of owning 3 different types of lockers I've never had a locker fail on the trail. That bolt crutch would not make me even consider an Ox. If their locking mechanisms were more reliable they wouldn't need to keep pushing that as a good thing.

It is pushed in case your air supply stops working. It is designed to correct failures up to the input port., cable and air. Yes the cable sucks. The air system is a winner though. So is their support. The cost to repair a OX is minimal. I recenty broke a cross shaft on my (12yr old) OX. Apparently, they thought all those problematic shafts were out of circulation. My previous owner never wheeled it once. did not even know how to work the T case. The fix was around $50 and some labor. Thanks to some very helpful "Jerry" tips, the process was simple. LOL

 

[WSS]

What about other air lockers, Yukon, Ox?

I have both. When I bought this TJ, it had OX on both ends (30 on the front). I converted the rear to air (about $150ish) and the front got a new Currie 44. I spec'd it out with a ARB (My CJ had ARB front and back, always liked them) It was recommended that I go with a Yukon air locker (Grizzly??) form two reasons,1) cheaper, 2) no hassle warranty. Third I will add from observation of the "cars" running KOH, lots of yukons on that race.

 

[tworley]

Love my ARBs. The airline is not some cheap, flimsy plastic line. It is a hardened poly that can take some serious abuse. My ARBs have been in for 5 years and the line has never broke on me. I did have an issue with the pressure switch on the compressor, but a $5 dollar replacement got me back up and running. I also had a journal oring break on the seal housing but I cannot blame ARB for that as this locker has been regeared so many times that the locker has been in and out.

 

[Mr. Bills]

considering your dislike for gadgetry, you might prefer a cable operated Ox locker.

Considering his dislike for gadgetry, what @Zorba would surely prefer is a Detroit.




Note to @Zorba : Go Eaton. You'll thank me later.

 

[someguysjeep]

I laid my OX cover down flat next the stock cover and the furthest point out was similar the OX just has more material out that far, a bigger face IIRC.

 

[Nickgsjeep]

Hey @Zorba , I’m not an expert on lockers at all, or really on anything for that matter when deciding between an ARB and an Eaton eLocker I went with the eLocker. All reviews were comparable, mostly all good things said about both. So when I called the drivetrain specialists in my area they too said both are fantastic lockers however, installing the Eaton is faster and cheaper and the same if some something goes wrong inside. Fixing is also faster and cheaper, just what they told me. Again I’m not an expert. If both lockers are fantastic pieces of gear then yes I chose the most cost effective route.

 

[jjvw]

Considering his dislike for gadgetry, what @Zorba would surely prefer is a Detroit.




....

Why not a spool?

 

[jjvw]

I laid my OX cover down flat next the stock cover and the furthest point out was similar the OX just has more material out that far, a bigger face IIRC.

The material on the upper half of the cover is what matters.

 

[Andy-WhiteTJ]

I think this might be what you were talking about.


I thought I would add this information to the thread:



This hyperlink will take you right to 5:52



.... at 5:52 you can see the elocker unlocks and re-lock after backing up. I’m not saying that is necessarily a bad thing because you might want it to unlock after backing up to relieve binding. You just have to be mindful of this when you back up. There are 3 evenly spaced pins on ramps that engage the locker so if you back up more than a third revolution of the tire, it will unlock so you may want to back up even farther to give it a chance to re-lock before you get to the obstacle. Also know that if you are trying to power out of a mud hole, remember that this is happening and you are engaging the locker under high torque.

​

I thought I had discussed this on this board before, but I can't find it now. So I'll add it to this thread as well. My Eaton Differentials Owner's Manual says about ELockers "Several designs of ELocker differentials are in production..." and it goes on to talk about three: I don't know if all three designs are still in production, but the collar-style sounds like what Jeff has experience with. And the pin-style sounds like it would work more like an ARB or Ox that simply stay engaged until you disengage them (I haven't figured out the Directing-acting version). So I'm not sure how helpful this is. Maybe you can only get the collar-style now in which case everything said above still always applies. But if you can get the pin-style it might be different. (Looking at the Eaton web site this morning I don't see anything about multiple designs being available)

Having been with a couple of my buddies that have the e-locker that unlocks and re-locks after backing up even just an 1", it has cost them the line that they were on in the big rocks. Had it been an ARB, they would have been able make the obstacle. Both of them pulled out the e-lockers and replaced them with ARBs.

 

[WSS]

Having been with a couple of my buddies that have the e-locker that unlocks and re-locks after backing up even just an 1", it has cost them the line that they were on in the big rocks. Had it been an ARB, they would have been able make the obstacle. Both of them pulled out the e-lockers and replaced them with ARBs.

What is happening? Does it unlock when backing up and then slip? Or is it just a instant? what is the "E" mechanism? Is it a solenoid (piston inside magneto)?