Dana 44 upgrade recommendations

Justemptyeverypocket

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Hi my 2002 Sahara was totaled and my new Jeep has a 44 under it so I don't plan on swapping in the 8.8 I got for the Sahara just wondering what you all recommend for 35s on a 44 ie axle shafts locker
 
Gears: 4.88 with a Manual and 35's is recommended but 4.56 is more than close enough, common manufacturers are Revolution Gear and Axle, Motive Gear, Yukon, and Nitro Gear. As far as I know, manufacturer isn't super critical. Bearing quality is important - Timken for example is a brand to go with. Above all, use an experienced gear installer and conventional (not synthetic) gear oil.

Locker: For selectable lockers you have Eaton E-Lockers, ARB air lockers Yukon Zip lockers, and OX Lockers. Ox lockers have issues with the engaging mechanism, ARB is the most expensive, and can have failures due to improper installation (same with Zip lockers because they are also air powered), Eaton lockers (my personal choice) are straightforward because they use and electrical engagement. All three of these brands are reputable and the lockers themselves are strong units, but the engagement types vary. For a non-selectable locker, you have a lot more options, you have Limited slip diffs which are good for road manners but wont keep your wheels spinning if they are off the ground. An lunchbox locker like the PowerTrax LockRite replaces your spider gears and stays locked when not turning (great budget option). A locker such as the Eaton Detriot or Yukon Grizzly locker essentially functions the same as the Lockrite, but replaces the entire carrier.

Shafts: 4340 Chromoly shafts, USA made. As far as I know Revolution is the only one making their shafts in the USA. I'm not 100% positive.

As for accessories
Tube sleeves - Don't add any benifit really
Trusses - you dont need them unless your using a custom control arm set up like a 4-link
 
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10-4. If you're already springing for gear install new r&p sets plus master install kits only @ $600. I'm sure you know. Just sayin 😜
 
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I
Gears: 4.88 with a Manual and 35's is recommended but 4.56 is more than close enough, common manufacturers are Revolution Gear and Axle, Motive Gear, Yukon, and Nitro Gear. As far as I know, manufacturer isn't super critical. Bearing quality is important - Timken for example is a brand to go with. Above all, use an experienced gear installer and conventional (not synthetic) gear oil.

Locker: For selectable lockers you have Eaton E-Lockers, ARB air lockers Yukon Zip lockers, and OX Lockers. Ox lockers have issues with the engaging mechanism, ARB is the most expensive, and can have failures due to improper installation (same with Zip lockers because they are also air powered), Eaton lockers (my personal choice) are straightforward because they use and electrical engagement. All three of these brands are reputable and the lockers themselves are strong units, but the engagement types vary. For a non-selectable locker, you have a lot more options, you have Limited slip diffs which are good for road manners but wont keep your wheels spinning if they are off the ground. An lunchbox locker like the PowerTrax LockRite replaces your spider gears and stays locked when not turning (great budget option). A locker such as the Eaton Detriot or Yukon Grizzly locker essentially functions the same as the Lockrite, but replaces the entire carrier.

Shafts: 4340 Chromoly shafts, USA made. As far as I know Revolution is the only one making their shafts in the USA. I'm not 100% positive.

As for accessories
Tube sleeves - Don't add any benifit really
Trusses - you dont need them unless your using a custom control arm set up like a 4-link
Thank you for the info this helps a lot
 
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I no longer have the 32 already automatic now I have a five-speed transmission I think is the ax 15
Oh sorry I misunderstood. With 35's and 5-speed the above advice to go 4.88 or 5.13 is right on. Since you already have to pay to regear one axle I'd bite the bullet and do what it takes to do the other axle. Sell blood plasma if you have to lol.

I had a similar undergeared issue when running 4.10 and 33's when I still had a 5-speed. It sucked having to downshift so much for even the gentlest of grades.
 
Oh sorry I misunderstood. With 35's and 5-speed the above advice to go 4.88 or 5.13. Since you already have to pay to regear one axle I'd bite the bullet and do what it takes to do the other axle. Sell blood plasma if you have to lol.

I had a similar undergeared issue when running 4.10 and 33's when I still had a 5-speed. It sucked having to downshift so much for even the gentlest of grades.
I don't suppose you know what tranny a 97 manual tj is?
 
I have 4.56 with my nv3550 on 35's and hate it. Definitely going with 5.13 when I put lockers in
 
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