Never used the skip proof but you don't need a pilot at all for pre-drilled holes in armor. Turn the cutter slow and it self centers which is what makes it a thing of beauty.
You are supposed to use the center punch in the middle of the spot weld first. If the cutter skips out, then the tension on the spring loaded plunger is too low, center punch is too shallow or the cutter isn't hitting the surface square.
I bought the center punch style also. I'll experiment a little first, before the real application!
I use high speed to start and then slow down. My helper uses low speed since he struggles to keep a drill square. I use high speed, light pressure and watch the cut line to square up the drill and then slow down when it is cutting a complete circle and has a ridge cut so the cutter will stay put.
Good to know! After that night of drilling out almost 100 spot welds we both swore it off lol
Too bad, there are few tools that work as well for drilling holes in sheet metal as that one. My favorite use is when I have to offset a hole that lands halfway on an existing hole. We have a piece of 1/4" strap that we drilled a 17/32 hole in. I center that over the new hole from drilling through the armor and clamp or screw it in place. The rotabroach will drill a perfect round hole without skipping, sliding or tearing up the sheetmetal.
I may just have to go back on my word and give the tool another try. I'm sure it was just inexperience making it tough... and knowing my friend he probably bought a cheap bit.
Sounded like you were using the Blair stuff. If not sure, give it a try, it is an outstanding way to drill round holes in sheet metal.
I'd much rather sound stupid than make another simple mistake. Sometimes the obvious is!
My help spends a lot of time trying to line up the bit in the center of the countersink. I get it close, start it spinning and go in. He hasn't figured out that you could spend a very long time trying to drill off center on purpose and countersink will funnel it right to the center of the hole every single time. Also be aware that the hole in Savvy armor is slightly under 3/8" so the bit will cut the aluminum slightly.
Well here's an interesting problem with the JKS disconnects. Where I'm at now I don't want to spend the extra money on an Antirock or Swayloc, and I already had the JKS disconnects in mind. JKS has two different sets, one is for 0-2" of lift and the other is for 2.5-6" of lift. My bet is on the 0-2" set, but for people wanting to upgrade further down the road I'm wondering if the longer set could work for this application
Do you notice and fuel mileage gains or anything like that? Or more of a general peace of mind and reduced wear thing?
To a measurable degree? Prob not. But it does help eliminate vibes when re gearing deep along with lifting.
As @Fouledplugs said, it's more of a cure for drive-line related vibrations. There is no gas mileage improvements and it actually introduces more complexity and maintenance, because you now have to clean and repack bearings routinely. I do mine on an annual basis, or ad-hoc, if needed.
