If these things could bolt on like the AEV brackets for the JK I'd have them already. But I can't weld and I have a fear of making mods I can't undo. So I might be a little slow to adopt these brackets. Even though I think they are beneficial.
Dave Kishpaugh's (Jeep West) geometry correction brackets are now available
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I talked with @David Kishpaugh about this a while ago and there are some hurdles that need to be addressed to go bolt on. One is the upper axle brackets on both sides need to have additional welds added or other reinforcements made to prevent the brackets from tearing from the axle tube. That is why Dave just went with the completely weld on path.
The Nth brackets I have may be mostly simple to install but the driver side is an erector set (something that Jim Frens was often criticized for when he introduced the line) with a fair amount of fasteners that do require occasional inspection and maintenance.
@starkey480 ran 9 hours to moab, several trail days, and home keeping the fronts as SA. He has spoken highly of how it performed.
If you all spent half the time focusing on your driving skills instead of what is better, you'd all be better. 
I have not. Not sure I want to post my thoughts here, based on this discussion.
If you all spent half the time focusing on your driving skills instead of what is better, you'd all be better.
12" outboards matched to a 2" bumpstop extension without geometry correction, the axle will not hang at the bottom of both shocks unless the drivers side upper control arm bolt is removed. There is a massive amount of rear steer under articulation and the suspension binds under articulation before it hits the bumpstop extension. I have a rig with geometry correction on 14" travel. The problem is the suspension binds before full droop but still easily flexes out to the Bottom of the shocks. Same as a 24" extended shock in stock mounts. The binding is what tears up bushings and rips brackets off.
The only way to put 14" travel under a tj rubicon is with a 5" stretch. Having a tj rubicon a guy intends to build, there's no advantage at all by running an unstable long or mid arm under it.
Running geometry correction, there's no cutting whatsoever that needs to be done to stuff a 35" tire in the factory fender opening. Geometry correction also fixes the over extension problem the arms have that drags the axle under the body.
My normal set up with a 2" drop skid and geometry correction is 15.5-15.75" lower arms. It's not necessary to run them 16" or more, all that does is create clearance issues.
As far as the shock and frame contact with 12-14" travel shock, I solved that issue as well with the shock towers I build and specic positions. I can run a 14" travel shocks on stock axles without flipping the brake calipers and still clear the frame.
At what point does the driveshaft bind? Unless you're running a dropped belly, my experience is that it happens well before that point.
Edit: Nvm -you said you use a 2" lower belly.
Why does this matter (flipping calipers)? It’s a minor change, so I’m not following why this is something I should consider.
12s using bushings? Why?
14s on short arms? Why?
Unstable mid arm? Not mine.
And I keep asking people to explain how exactly rear steer affects anything.
And I haven't seen an outboard where the tire contacts the frame.
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Jim Frens brought out the original HIK (handling improvement kit) as he knew that adjusting the rear control arm geometry gave the biggest bang for the buck. Add to that there is no fix for the front that does not require serious (ie cutting and welding) modifications. Warn also knew this when they developed their "long arm" which was just a rear mid arm four link.
Your response applies to Rasband's caliper question too.
I would, but I haven't done or seen an outboard without a caliper flip. I'm just not sure why one wouldn't flip the caliper since it makes the job a bit easier.
From the comments here from those who have this, this is a bang for buck solution*, and it costs more to flip the calipers (or rather parking brake).
Unless I'm still missing something?
* solution for if you struggle with your jeep lifting a tire.
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Well roll steer or more correctly roll induced wheelbase change makes for crappy handling if you like driving hard on winding roads.
Shock outboard without a caliper flip https://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/rearshock/rearshock-4.htm done by Blaine himself. Caliper flip was an improvement on the process that Blaine came up with later.
Man I was out there yesterday in 100 degrees wheelin. I’m workin on it!If you all spent half the time focusing on your driving skills instead of what is better, you'd all be better.
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