Frame side track bar mount bent
- Thread starter Norcalplinker
- Start date
Go find a 10 cent fabricator that will heat and bend that properly. Then weld to the forged mount.
The OP just solidified my answer with his own response about the articulation limitation of his current TB. You can see the lack of misalignment there. It is a limiting factor in that position.
Not too hard to get the geometry right with a a DS mount either and cost a lot less than what you are implying.
The only limit is when the left side goes up and the right goes down or full droop. My bigger concern would be how it got that way. I suspect there was a front end collision of some sort that tagged the axle hard. I'd be more worried about the frame being shifted in that area than anything else.Yes very happy with my alignment and the way it rides now, the only real issue is the limited articulation with this thing at it's limit
This is exactly what happened, PO said the jeep got tagged right at the wheel which pushed the axle, had the jeep checked out at a few body shops and that's where the bending back idea came from but wanted to get some ideas from actual jeep folks. I'm not new to jeeps just to tj's but I'm learning! One of the shops said it's lucky that mount is so weak in that it stretched instead of breaking the welds or tweaking the frame.
Did they repair the axle or replace it? 99% of the time it folds the lower control arm mounts over, bends one inner C at least and then typically tweaks the long side axle tube.
Which is kinda unfortunate. If the track bar flexing could tweak it one way, that would sure be an easy way to bend it back.the jeep can flex this way all day the other way not so much
Mr. Blaine you're like a mind reader, so yes when I got this tj, the drivers side c was bent as well the upper balljoint, camber was like 2 degree's in. I've since replaced the whole axle with a mint stock one trussed, replaced the whole front end steering links, pitman arm, the whole shebang (before posting here I've been following you and Jerry Bransford's recommendations, spicer ball joints, wj steering upgrade, I'm usually not the smartest guy in the room but I recognize who is) going to do a build posting so I can get these 20 post out of the way
Nothing to do with reading minds, just seen the aftermath of a lot of traffic collisions.Mr. Blaine you're like a mind reader, so yes when I got this tj, the drivers side c was bent as well the upper balljoint, camber was like 2 degree's in. I've since replaced the whole axle with a mint stock one trussed, replaced the whole front end steering links, pitman arm, the whole shebang (before posting here I've been following you and Jerry Bransford's recommendations, spicer ball joints, wj steering upgrade, I'm usually not the smartest guy in the room but I recognize who is) going to do a build posting so I can get these 20 post out of the way
FYI, if you trussed it, you weren't following my advice.Mr. Blaine you're like a mind reader, so yes when I got this tj, the drivers side c was bent as well the upper balljoint, camber was like 2 degree's in. I've since replaced the whole axle with a mint stock one trussed, replaced the whole front end steering links, pitman arm, the whole shebang (before posting here I've been following you and Jerry Bransford's recommendations, spicer ball joints, wj steering upgrade, I'm usually not the smartest guy in the room but I recognize who is) going to do a build posting so I can get these 20 post out of the way
no I know, I looked at aftermarket axles and with availability they were all around $5000, I got a straight axle for free from a friend and all the labor to freshen it up was free (me)
Had one of the local offroad shops bend it back and box it in.
No, you want to increase the thickness of the damaged webs on either side.
No need to box anything. Just make the two 1/4" thick side plates, make them 3/16" wider than the mount side profile for a weld bead, curve to fit, clamp and weld them up after the mount is bent back.
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