Re-gear vs supercharger vs engine swap for lack of power

Your engine or transmission may just be tired and worn, you said its fine on the flat, well hills sort out the men from the boys so to speak in relation to engines and power and always have.
Try to drive another TJ on a similar incline to compare. I do not believe for one moment that driving around at 4500RPM through every gear or holding an auto to that RPM is good for the engine despite so many saying it is! Well maybe for a perfectly running TJ it does no harm in the short term but if its fucked its fucking it more.
Maybe just get a manual gearbox that way you have more control over inclines?
 
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2005 here with a 4.0, 42rle, and 31" hybrid tires. Plans to go to to 33" some day. I'm new to Jeeps, and a shade tree mechanic at best. This is more to learn than anything. I've seen a lot of threads about all of these, but none that really address the pros and cons vs each other.

This post is mostly seeing if my logic is sound on my options. I'd like to make a fully loaded jeep actually able to go up a hill without downshifting to the point it is a 4500 rpm, and still slowing down. I went on a wheeling/camping trip in the Ozarks. Granted said hill was pretty steep, but still on a highway. Going 70 fully loaded and with a roof rack as well. I understand the Jeep is a brick on wheels, but starting to mill over options to get some more power out of it. I also assume there isn't a fix to getting 12 mpg fully loaded and going 70 in windy/hilly terrain.

Re-gear seems to be everyone's "cheap" go to for "getting power back". I totally agree the way theses are geared is horrible. I've also seen people say they get a 1-2 mpg increase after a re-gear. My argument for this situation is I was already at 3k rpm on said hill. While I do plan on re-gearing I don't assume it will fix an actual "lack of power". The engine was not bogged and shifted down to 2nd putting it at around 4500 and it was still losing speed. Perhaps my logic is flawed that 3k rpm in 3rd should have more acceleration than if it were 3k in 4th. If looking at just a "power" perspective. I don't doubt it will drive much better with a re-gear though I don't see it magically fixing this problem.

A super charger seems like the next cheapest/complicated thing on the list. I've seen some posts from Chris about the Magnum Powers super charger and I may message him. This seems like an actual fix to the "lack of power". Basically doubling WHP seems like a dream come true. It also appears to be something I could just bolt on myself, then have tuned. This is what I'm currently leaning to the most. It keeps the engine the same, and seems like a simi-simple bolt on process.

An engine swap seems by far the hardest and most expensive on this list. Though it would also possibly fix the horrid gas mileage. I'd prefer not to have a diesel though, and those seem like the best options for swapping. I really like the 4.0's Ease of working on, simplicity, and reliability. I also feel like a whole engine swap is going to add a lot of "grimlins" at some point to chase down.

Let me know if my logic is flawed on any of these. I'm sure everyone's experience is different as well, and everyone likes their Jeep to drive a different way. I've seen a guy on here that argues 3.73 is a good gearing for bigger tires. I'm only at 31" and I can already tell that isn't true. At least for me personally and how I want to have my Jeep to drive, and feel. That is a wonderful thing about them as a platform. You can make it into anything you want. Thanks ahead of time for all the info that hopefully comes out of this comparison.

TLDR of my though processes

Regear
Pros- "Cheap", better power band, possibly 1-2 mpg increase.
Cons- Not an actual fix to not having enough power

Super Charger
Pros- Actually addresses lack of power, relatively "easy" install, able to be upgraded for more power if wanted.
Cons- Loss of 1-2 mpg, perhaps engine heat, it costs as much as my Jeep did.

Engine Swap
Pros- Fixes power, fixes gas mileage
Cons- Expensive, complicated, I assume will have lots of grimlins to chase down, I don't want a diesel.
The 4.0L I-6 actually performs better at 3000-4000RPM than it does at 2500. I would not let a higher RPM rev be of much of a concern with the motor.
 
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The 4.0L I-6 actually performs better at 3000-4000RPM than it does at 2500. I would not let a higher RPM rev be of much of a concern with the motor.
Unless your motor is worn to all buggery! Not all 4.0L I-6 are equal to both New or Another's! 16 plus years on and it could be ready for a full re build or the knackers yard where as Joe Bloggs's 4.0 from 97 is still doing quite nicely thank you very much!

Struggling up an incline at 4500RPM in second and still loosing MPH is not a healthy 4.0L Engine or transmission else people would have dumped their TJ,s from new.

"feel the quality not the Width" is a true saying that seems to be lost in the internet world of looking up specs that are actually quite irrelevant to an older vehicle you have not owned driven and maintained from new.
 
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Regear and lose weight.
And take less stuff with you when you go so the jeep is lighter as well.

Here I have a '03 with a 4.0 and 42RLE on 33" tires. 5.13 gears work well. That's as deep as gears go on this setup. As far as the OD switch mod, I often switch the OD off its really not that hard to throw a switch. I switch OD off frequently even with 5.13s. Here in South Florida you can't buy s hill so all flatland as well.


I get 12 MPH around the mall. If i do longer rides thru the whole tank i can get almost 14 mpg going easy on the skinny pedal.
 
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If I harken back to what Rolls Royce used to say re: power, the 4.0 is adequate. I don't think it's particularly weak by any stretch. Good torque delivery where we need it. The typical killer on cars up to the 2010s is the transmission. Old-school slushbox automatics, especially early computer controlled ones like the 42RLE programmed for shiftpoints to 'maximize' economy (though we know it doesn't do crap for economy).

If you want more power, you want more power. Not sure I could justify it rightly by calling the 4.0 weak...it isn't. I love hp as much as the next guy. I've spent tens of thousands modifying vehicles over the past 20 years much to the detriment of my wallet......but the only justification I could come up with for doing a motor swap in my TJ is "just because". the amount of money and work versus gearing......nah.

Gearing. Absolutely gearing. Maximize the powerband available in the 4.0 and trans gearing.
YMMV
 
Fishtaco is correct. There is something wrong with your engine. My folks have a place in the Ozarks and we drive up every summer in a 2006 LJ Rubi with stock sized tires (KO2) and wheels. I go up and down those hills with no problem, in sixth gear. The only time I ever had to downshift was when I was towing my brothers 24' fishing boat, filled with all of his fishing junk. Admittedly, she only has about 40,000 miles, but she is still over 15 years old.
 
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I'm having it checked out in a bit with a re-gear. It did fine even way over loaded at around 55-60. It just wouldn't stay 70+ so I assume I'm just expecting too much out of it. It sounds like @Chris you were against any supercharger really doing good? I saw another post of the Eaton M90 supercharger kits you were talking about as well. I'm not looking for a race car. Just a bit more go from her on the highway.
 
I'm having it checked out in a bit with a re-gear. It did fine even way over loaded at around 55-60. It just wouldn't stay 70+ so I assume I'm just expecting too much out of it. It sounds like @Chris you were against any supercharger really doing good? I saw another post of the Eaton M90 supercharger kits you were talking about as well. I'm not looking for a race car. Just a bit more go from her on the highway.
I think that you’ll get a solid 50 HP from the supercharger. You’ll feel it and it will be an improvement, but just ask @Flyin' Ryan Performance about tuning these garbage Boosted Tech supercharger setups. The Split Second controller they include with it is of the utmost garbage.
 
I think that you’ll get a solid 50 HP from the supercharger. You’ll feel it and it will be an improvement, but just ask @Flyin' Ryan Performance about tuning these garbage Boosted Tech supercharger setups. The Split Second controller they include with it is of the utmost garbage.
Fair enough. I'm not sure 50 hp is worth I would assume around 3k ish, lol. I'll have to noodle it over. It does sound like you've tried all the superchargers and they all were mostly a let down.

I guess one other thing to ask. There is a local shop that does Jeep stuff that a wheeling group recommended. I see everyone saying gear 5.13 even for 33's. Is that long highway use too. He really tried to talk to me back to 4.88 at least, if not 4.56. Mostly due to people getting driveline vibrations with those gear sizes and smaller tires.
 
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Fair enough. I'm not sure 50 hp is worth I would assume around 3k ish, lol. I'll have to noodle it over. It does sound like you've tried all the superchargers and they all were mostly a let down.

I guess one other thing to ask. There is a local shop that does Jeep stuff that a wheeling group recommended. I see everyone saying gear 5.13 even for 33's. Is that long highway use too. He really tried to talk to me back to 4.88 at least, if not 4.56. Mostly due to people getting driveline vibrations with those gear sizes and smaller tires.
It’s not worth 4K plus (which is what you’ll be at after you tune it, get larger injectors, methanol injection, etc.

If you want to do it, a turbo kit is a FAR better option.
 
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It’s not worth 4K plus (which is what you’ll be at after you tune it, get larger injectors, methanol injection, etc.

If you want to do it, a turbo kit is a FAR better option.
I had the Banks turbo on my previous LJR and I was not impressed. The ECU begins to pull timing under load even with the programming that Banks provided. So when you were laying into it and expecting to feel that turbo magic, the ECU would tone things back down. So if investing into a turbo make sure the programming is spot on.

Jack
 
I had the Banks turbo on my previous LJR and I was not impressed. The ECU begins to pull timing under load even with the programming that Banks provided. So when you were laying into it and expecting to feel that turbo magic, the ECU would tone things back down. So if investing into a turbo make sure the programming is spot on.

Jack
That’s something @Flyin' Ryan Performance would be able to solve.
 
It’s not worth 4K plus (which is what you’ll be at after you tune it, get larger injectors, methanol injection, etc.

If you want to do it, a turbo kit is a FAR better option.
Might be an option too. I felt fine the whole time I was wheeling. No lack of power ever. The only time I feel it is when I hit that skinny pedal on the highway. That is when a turbo works best. I'll have a look. Any suggestions on a good turbo kit?
 
I went to 5.13's per the advice here and on 33's.

Zero issues with a 1000mi round trip, including an off road rally this past weekend.

Makes it feel like stock again.

On the dirt the 5.13's REALLY shine.
 
I went to 5.13's per the advice here and on 33's.

Zero issues with a 1000mi round trip, including an off road rally this past weekend.

Makes it feel like stock again.

On the dirt the 5.13's REALLY shine.
What year, trans, and any other mods to drivetrain. I just read that 37 page "vibration after gearing." thread. I'm now terrified to re-gear this thing. I'm in the 03-06 range with a 42rle. The ones that seem to get it most.
 
What year, trans, and any other mods to drivetrain. I just read that 37 page "vibration after gearing." thread. I'm now terrified to re-gear this thing. I'm in the 03-06 range with a 42rle. The ones that seem to get it most.

2004 LJ
42RLE
5.13's and ARB's
SYE
33x10.5 Maxxis Razr's

No issues with gearing or locker install, used a great shop.

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