Work from home LJ

finished tearing down front drive shaft and centering yoke looked pretty rough. So ordered replacement that’ll be here in few days.

Switched over to t case and sure enough, was no where near correctly positioned. Adjusted cable and now have free movement at the shift lever.

Once the yoke gets here I’ll throw the front shaft back in and try again
 
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Got Jeep back together and drove around neighborhood. Not perfect yet but no loud grinding noise anymore.

Now to regear the Dana 44

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Trying to tear down Dana 44. Pinion nut wouldn’t come off. No matter how much heat or torque put on it.

Cut through with angle grinder (making sure to not knick yoke) and it popped right off.

Will run first pattern in morning. The existing set up had .04 thou in it so that’ll be my starting point unless someone has a better recommendation

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Interesting problem I just solved. My 5.13 pinion has a tiny rib as you press the inner bearing on. My press was bottoming out trying to put the new bearing on.

I had been through 2 separate bearings with the cage cut off (koyo and timken) to try to figure out why I couldn’t press the last bit.

10 seconds with a dremmel opening up the ID of the bearing with cage cut off and the new bearing was now fully seated. Others might know to do this but I spent half an hour trying to figure out what I was doing wrong


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took the last week to finally get organized. This is first time I’ve been able to close my toolbox since I bought it 2 years ago.

Helps a ton. I’ll probably redo a few more times before I’m happy with organization but previously I had loose sockets everywhere.

Posted 4 pics of regear for rear 44. First 2 we’re my initial setup at .055 tho (counting the slinger).

Went all the way up to .065 and now am dialing back in. The second two pics are .060. Intentionally doing this the long way and bracketing at different ranges to see patterns. I think this will force me to remember how to read these in the future.

This is 100x easier the second time around

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These are at .05. Coming along. Slowly. The blur/lighting doesn’t do justice but the pattern is improving.

You can tell on drive side tooth furthest from screen. Starting to get the rounded shape we want with a tiny bit of paint left at top of tooth.

This is not ideal bc of the harsh line on bottom of tooth. Thinking I’ll pull a few more thou and be pretty close.

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kameronkales said:
TLDR for anyone doing gears: spend extra 15-20 bucks and buy more shims. I’ve spent more time fighting the limited stack I had than setting my gears up.

I bought more for the Dana 30 in the front but forgot for the rear. It makes the job WAY easier.
Click to expand...

Word.

🙂
 
NashvilleTJ said:
Not the shims, but rather that “Golden [pinion] Seal” which I could only get from Dynatrac for about 70 clams. Good memory.
Click to expand...

My Currie seal is about $50 before shipping. Replaced mine a couple weeks ago and accidentally overdrove it in with no good way to pull it back out. Ended up installing another $50 seal last weekend. :(
 
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Here’s a good run with .048 PD. BL is around 8.

can you take a look @hosejockey61.

This is looking better but usually 44s are in the .055-.065 PD range. The .055 I started with was ok, but going up from there looked like crap.

Note to self: I’ll spend the extra money on revolution gears next time. Both sets of these standard gears have been a PITA to set up

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this is about as close as I can get. lesson learned to buy better quality gears next time. The below is at .036 after slowly working my way down. Theres still a bit more of a harsh line than I would prefer, but its not straight across like the .038 is.

None of these look great tbh

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here is the .033

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here is the .038

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FYI - Ive been working on this over the course of a few weeks and some of the paint at the root is dried, which makes it a bit harder to see what is actually going on. Ill clean gears off as I work in the future.

There wasnt much change at .043 so I didnt include those. I love the coast at .038 but am prioritizing the drive side here. The below is that .038 coast.
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Photo dump coming. I pulled the .033 slinger today and went down to .020. I was being dumb and thought the slinger was required (which led to best I can comments).

I started at .020. Those are first 2 attached.

Then went to .025. Second 2.

Then went to .030. third set of 2.

Then tried .028. Fourth set of pictures.

it looks like something between .30 and .032 above would be my best bet. I don’t love how even the .030 seems to be wiping off edge of tooth.

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Before doing anything else, make sure your bearings (carrier and pinion both) are pressed on all the way. Does your shim math include a baffle? Does it even have a baffle? Shim stack in the 30's doesn't sound right....
 
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hosejockey61 said:
Before doing anything else, make sure your bearings (carrier and pinion both) are pressed on all the way. Does your shim math include a baffle? Does it even have a baffle? Shim stack in the 30's doesn't sound right....
Click to expand...

Pinion is 100% pressed on all the way. Carriers are set up bearings and are on.

Shin math doesn’t include a baffle. I pulled the .033 slinger that was under the inner bearing.

I agree it doesn’t sound right but I’ve bracketed out and if you look it’s deep even at .038. it’s definitely shallow at .020. So stepping back up there isn’t great pattern option. .030 is best I’ve seen so far

These are new us standard gears but we’re made during Covid. Think that caused issue?
 
Typical set up is around .042. This is .043. It’s deep. so then go to something like .030.

But .030 also looks like crap. You can see .028 and lower above.

I’m using a 3.73 and down carrier break Eaton e locker and 5.13 thick gears. That is the right setup. Gears are brand new (although been in box for 18+ months).

I can take everything apart tomorrow and clean and confirm everything is seated but I did this with the front Dana 30 and didn’t have issues like this at all.

All the patterns look like crap.

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