Which is 100% anecdotal experiences are not of the value folks tend to believe. What I do to solve an issue may not and generally won't work. They are all different. You have a path, you just need to follow it.
Front shaft out, dial in the rear and don't stop until you are 100% happy with it.
Then install the front. Start adjusting pinion up and caster out until the vibes get acceptable or the steering goes to crap with fidgety response and loss of return to center. All predicated of course, on a known good front shaft.
At the point of crap steering due to loss of caster, you can then make the decision to live with no vibes and crap steering or go back to good steering and no vibes with the hub kit. That said, if the kit is the Yukon WU-07, be aware they are not always 100% out of the box and need lots of tweaking to install correctly.

Ok, regarding the hub kit and tweaking? what type of tweaking like missing parts or not fitting.
 
Yes, got one, actually got two, Digital and not so digital. Been looking at these numbers with no clue :p lol... well little bit of clue but just pretty confused since one side of the axle pumpkin at the rear flat spots will read .2 off and driver side caster will be way off from the passenger side, yet, the alignment shop did it and it was perfectly fine before the regear and all parts off to do so.

Shimmy is also less without the front DS but there.

Tires balance, sure but damn for conincidence lol... doing regear at the same time and no shimmy, all of the sudden done regear and shimmy. Than again, I don't think I jumped on the thruway for like a month so maaaaybe.

Stop with the numbers. Here's why, if I tell you it has to be a specific number and that doesn't solve the problem, then what? Are you going to stick to the numbers or change it until the problem is solved?
 
You could certainly go that route. I have a shimmy with the front end locked even with a new Tom Wood DS. But another guy in here, maybe @NOTNSUV iirc, went that route and avoided needing to do the kit. IMO he was fortunate since those balancers don’t appear to test up to the RPM range you’d be looking to stabilize in…this is info I’m just sharing from memory from reading his thread on the subject.
Yup, that was me that got horseshit lucky for once. My driveshaft guy balanced the front and cured my oscillations. Good enough that there was no discernable difference when driven with or w/o the front driveshaft, including with a buddy who'd never been in the LJ, whereas before it was very evident in the seat of the pants and a slight drone/hum to my deaf ears. After the balance (aftermarket DS but I don't recall the brand) it felt the same as when I had OEM 4.10 in it. Eric wanted to play with it some more thinking he could improve on it with rear DS angles but we never got together for that, so I still might pursue that one day, but it's so fine compared to the oscillation I never give it a thought.

P.S. I initially said he'd balanced above 3500rpm but corrected that in the thread at a later date. I was mistaken and Eric clarified for me.
 
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Ok, regarding the hub kit and tweaking? what type of tweaking like missing parts or not fitting.

Bad studs
Holes wrong size for studs.
Missing parts.
Too many parts of the wrong part number.
Bearing hubs machined out of true.

We've solved all of them and know how to do any of it. Do not contact Yukon if you expect them to fix anything, you'll just be sad.
 
What’s the shimmy like?

left right shimmy... start about 55mph and stronger, than 65 and vibrations come into play from driveshaft. I'm sure you guys saw my other post but heres how things sound in terms of the driveshaft vibrations, which I still can't identify as the harmonic vibes everyone that got them after regear or I'm just the dude with bad vibrations from unbalanced driveshaft or ujoints/cardan.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/hgq7...ited.mp4?rlkey=be5rf40orstn1u8pxhp2szuro&dl=0
 
Bad studs
Holes wrong size for studs.
Missing parts.
Too many parts of the wrong part number.
Bearing hubs machined out of true.

We've solved all of them and know how to do any of it. Do not contact Yukon if you expect them to fix anything, you'll just be sad.

Great, looking forward to that possible mess :)
 
Stop with the numbers. Here's why, if I tell you it has to be a specific number and that doesn't solve the problem, then what? Are you going to stick to the numbers or change it until the problem is solved?

Got it, so right... so I guess the best approach at this point would be to the following I do;

1. remove front driveshaft and see if vibes and shimmy is gone
2. if vibes are gone but not shimmy, mess around with caster till shimmy is gone unless its tires.
3. get a new, properly balanced DS for the front since no vibes with rear DS in and front DS out.
4. if vibes return with new DS, play with angles between DS and Pinion

If none of the above help at that point, hubs.
 
left right shimmy... start about 55mph and stronger, than 65 and vibrations come into play from driveshaft. I'm sure you guys saw my other post but heres how things sound in terms of the driveshaft vibrations, which I still can't identify as the harmonic vibes everyone that got them after regear or I'm just the dude with bad vibrations from unbalanced driveshaft or ujoints/cardan.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/hgq7...ited.mp4?rlkey=be5rf40orstn1u8pxhp2szuro&dl=0

Holy shit the profile pic change threw me off. I didn’t know you were same poster as yesterday 😂
 
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I wouldn’t judge being geared too low by the presence of vibes.

Chris had vibes in his rig after the auto swap with 4.88s and that’s not low enough.

I would run 5.38s with 33s without a second thought since under revving is a bigger issue than over revving.

The hubs essentially allow you to turn the front end off while on the road. I had the large hub kit installed during the regear. It was a great investment as it allows me to dial in caster and not have vibes from the pinion angle or DS balancing issues.

I haven’t had any issues in freezing temps but I haven’t spend much time in a frigid climate. I wouldn’t fear it though since the Redline Cv-2 grease I went with is rated down to -100*F.

I highly recommend the Yukon kit for eliminating vibes, just know that the small kit (5x4.5”) widens the front track width by about 3/4”-1” on each side. The larger kit (5x5.5”) doesn’t widen the front track width, but you’d need to change wheels. Pick your poison.

So regearing isn’t as simple as redoing the axles?

I have 4.88’s on the horizon, but I like shift on the fly as well.
 
Got it, so right... so I guess the best approach at this point would be to the following I do;

1. remove front driveshaft and see if vibes and shimmy is gone
2. if vibes are gone but not shimmy, mess around with caster till shimmy is gone unless its tires.
3. get a new, properly balanced DS for the front since no vibes with rear DS in and front DS out.
4. if vibes return with new DS, play with angles between DS and Pinion

If none of the above help at that point, hubs.
Adjusting your caster won’t solve the shimmy and you’ll end up chasing your tail trying to adjust it for two different problems anyways.
 
I would do something like this:
1) get tires balanced for the shimmy
Note: I’ve had to take my tires back to DT 3 times in a row to get them properly balanced before. They don’t always do a good job the first time.

2) You already know it’s vibe free with front driveshaft removed, so the rear is good ✅

3) check front shaft joints. If any are bad then replace

4) get driveshaft balanced

5) you can adjust your pinion a little bit but you’re already basically in line with the driveshaft so you’re not far off from where it should be happy. Supposedly pinion 1* higher than the driveshaft is where it is the happiest, but try 1* low, 0*, and 1* high.

6) if it still vibes then throw a hub kit at it

7) if it doesn’t vibe and your steering is shit, throw a hub kit at it and dial back in as much caster as you want.
 
I would do something like this:
1) get tires balanced for the shimmy
Note: I’ve had to take my tires back to DT 3 times in a row to get them properly balanced before. They don’t always do a good job the first time.

2) You already know it’s vibe free with front driveshaft removed, so the rear is good ✅

3) check front shaft joints. If any are bad then replace

4) get driveshaft balanced

5) you can adjust your pinion a little bit but you’re already basically in line with the driveshaft so you’re not far off from where it should be happy. Supposedly pinion 1* higher than the driveshaft is where it is the happiest, but try 1* low, 0*, and 1* high.

6) if it still vibes then throw a hub kit at it

7) if it doesn’t vibe and your steering is shit, throw a hub kit at it and dial back in as much caster as you want.

So here is my thought so far;

I got the front driveshaft off. I will have a good drive with it getting my son from school, I can get it up to 65 no problem. I'll see if the vibes are gone and if the shimmy is gone. If vibes are gone again, than its driveshaft for the vibes. If the shimmy is gone than its driveshaft as well causing that. If vibes gone, but shimmy there, I'll head over to get tires balanced tomorrow and maybe alignment done for caster, toe, etc.. just to make sure those two are out of my way, and shimmy is gone. I'll than order a driveshaft and when it comes in see if vibes are back, if they are then I guess I'll play with pinion / driveshaft angles.

At that point I should have balanced tires, proper angels or close enough, and balanced driveshaft. Unless the balanced driveshaft isn't balanced. I think I'll go with local shop vs Tom or Adam, just so I can easily bring it in and pick it up if needs extra balancing if not done right.
 
Okay... so new update.

Driveshaft off at the front... 55mph no shimmy, other than uneven road. 60mph no shimmy and no vibration. 65mph, no shimmy and no vibration. I guess tires could be slightly better balanced but I think it's the road then anything I'm feeling.

I guess, next step.... new, stronger, built new, balanced driveshaft.

Thoughts?
 
Okay... so new update.

Driveshaft off at the front... 55mph no shimmy, other than uneven road. 60mph no shimmy and no vibration. 65mph, no shimmy and no vibration. I guess tires could be slightly better balanced but I think it's the road then anything I'm feeling.

I guess, next step.... new, stronger, built new, balanced driveshaft.

Thoughts?

Why not have your shaft checked and balanced. With 2” lift a new shaft may not be needed. My $0.02
 
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Why not have your shaft checked and balanced. With 2” lift a new shaft may not be needed. My $0.02

Thought about that, but it's not smooth, little rough from weather lol. I don't think it's bent either or anything I guess I can try and if they see an issue with it, hopefully they'd tell me