All things welding

AirborneTexasRanger said:
Plasma cutters are becoming more readily available & I absolutely love mine. However, there's a few things I have learned & I think they should be considered for any would be buyers. First up, is you need an adequate air compressor typically 20 gallon & up. Each PC has a cubic feet per minute (CFM) requirement at 90 psi. You might be able to get away with a smaller one, but it will have to work harder to keep up. Second is you will need an air dryer which you can get from HF pretty cheap & some PCs come with a small one. Third is that they have consumables that need to be replaced: nozzle, shielding cup, swirl ring & electrodes. Also I recommend some type of stand off attachment because you can easily burn out the nozzle if your not careful. Most PCs come with a pilot arc feature, something to note about this is that the pilot arc does not need a ground clamp to be activated. This is important because if you don't have a good ground connection the pilot arc will still cut through thinner metals possibly gouge thicker metals, but this will eat your consumables almost immediately.

Cutting with a PC is simple. Aim, Squeeze, Drag. I recommend using the grind feature on your hood or a shade 5 lens. If your torch angle (90°) is off, your travel speed is too slow/fast or your amps aren't right, then it will cut like shit. The molten metal can actually re-fuse back together & you'll have to cut it again. There will be an excessive amount of dross (different from slag) which can usually be chipped off with a chipping hammer or cold chisel. I like to use a straight edge or a guide to slide the torch along so I can focus on cutting speed & less on where I'm cutting.

Once you've got a clean cut you will need to do some prep work before welding. PCs leave a nitride layer that case hardens the edge. It's typically only a few thousandths thick so a quick hit with a flap disc & you're good to go. If not removed this will reek havoc on your welds with porosity even if on the surface the weld looks good. When cutting off brackets say on a frame or axle sometime gouges can be left by the PC. I've found that using a band file works to remove the nitride layer without grinding away too much of the base metal.

Hopefully this doesn't dissuade anyone from getting a plasma cutter because they're extremely useful if used correctly.
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What’s the difference between dross and slag?
 
In welding:

Slag is impurities that boil to the top of the weld & is easily scraped away

Dross is molten metal that was not blown away by the compressed air when cutting & clings to the cut edge. It can be difficult to chip away & sometimes tough to grind

Chemically they're quite different but they look similar
 
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I love my plasma cutter. Blaine is right though. Some brackets are tougher to remove than others.
 
Woodrow said:

Plasma Cutter, CUT50 50 Amp 110V/220V Dual Voltage IGBT Cutting Machine for $169​

(https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Cutting-Machine-Display-Accessories/dp/B07GB3T4KG/?tag=wranglerorg-20)​

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I have one of these. I bought it on impulse to kind of play with. It does a good job on cutting brackets off and quick rough cuts to heavier steel. It is fast and efficient. I find i really need to watch where the plasma spray is directed more than sparks from a cut off wheel. I don't know if its my skill level or the machine but I don't get as precise a cut as I would like. For any precision cutting my go to is still the cut off wheel.
 
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What I like to do is put a piece of tape on the top of the welder to help keep track of settings once I get them dialed in. This helps especially if I'm moving from one project to another where I need to adjust the machine. Admittedly sometimes I have to replace the tape because it can get full of old settings from past projects which I did yesterday & I thought I'd share.

PXL_20240409_225114521.jpg
 
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A lot of folks ask if the Amazon welders are worth it. For welding capabilities probably, but you don't get the customer service that you would get from an American company. In my case, Everlast that's based out of California.

I recently ordered a new 25' rotating Tig torch & it came with unadvertised extras that I had already planned on buying but now I don't have to. They sent a few consumables, always nice to have extras. A 25' on/off trigger with zip ties. The best part is that it also came with a denim sleeve to protect it from damage.

PXL_20240412_000711025.jpg
 
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I have an 80s Syncrowave 250. Its way more than I need. I need to downsize just because its huge.

At KOH we had to tig weld a couple brackets for the first aid kit to the rear of the chassis.

Predator generator and an Everlast tig machine. I had low expectations, but it 100% didn't look like it was done it the desert with a machine I would never consider and a Chinese neighbor hater generator.

At some point I will most likely sell my big Miller and get an Everlast.
 
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I'm very pleased with my machines. Only problem I've had was my error. I was having trouble with AC TIG so I called them up & talked to one of their techs in Cali. Turns out I didn't realize the AC balance is reversed on their machines.
 
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First and FOREMOST go to Youtube and Watch Pipeline Pierce Lincoln Parody
Second You can be good at Welding or Good at grinding and the the first is a lot easier
Third "Ohh goddamn that hot" never forget number three
 
One of the things I really pushed on everyone I have taught to weld is learn to be ambidextrous and get proficient at welding out of position.

They all didn't get it and ignored me. Until they realized you are not always going to always be able weld strong hand all comfy.

You really get it when your half laying down, holding yourself up with your strong hand, helmet on sideways, welding with your weak hand around a corner 😃
 
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CMBD said:
One of the things I really pushed on everyone I have taught to weld is learn to be ambidextrous and get proficient at welding out of position.

They all didn't get it and ignored me. Until they realized you are not always going to always be able weld strong hand all comfy.

You really get it when your half laying down, holding yourself up with your strong hand, helmet on sideways, welding with your weak hand around a corner 😃
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Well I am not there yet most of my welds 85% look like a roll of dimes buttttttttt then there are those days I am going to be a good grinder
When its good it usually really good when its bad theres a lot of cussing or see rule 3 above
Welding Vertical welds is my kryptonite
 
Gunnersmate said:
Well I am not there yet most of my welds 85% look like a roll of dimes buttttttttt then there are those days I am going to be a good grinder
When its good it usually really good when its bad theres a lot of cussing or see rule 3 above
Welding Vertical welds is my kryptonite
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It takes time. Lots of time. I started welding in the 80s and every day isn't my day either. But more are than not.
 
CMBD said:
One of the things I really pushed on everyone I have taught to weld is learn to be ambidextrous and get proficient at welding out of position.

They all didn't get it and ignored me. Until they realized you are not always going to always be able weld strong hand all comfy.

You really get it when your half laying down, holding yourself up with your strong hand, helmet on sideways, welding with your weak hand around a corner 😃
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I only have one arm I lost the other in a welding accident
 
Gunnersmate said:
I only have one arm I lost the other in a welding accident
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My father is a Marine and lost his left arm in 68.

He used to be able to lay down machine looking welds I could not ever duplicate.

But he is right handed. So he had that going for him.
 
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