All things welding

AirborneTexasRanger said:
I try to avoid the term "Heat" in reference to settings because it can be confusing. A cold weld means your settings in general are too low where a hot weld is the opposite. Also the type of machine (inverter based or transformer based) you have would help me understand better because they operate a bit differently

For the specific welds you posted, the shorter one looks really consistent while with the longer one you were just moving too fast. I wouldn't change the settings just adjust your travel speed. Learning to adjust the way you weld as opposed to the settings will make you a better welder. This will teach you how slight adjustments on your end can affect the weld in different ways, it will teach you to read the puddle & will really benefit you when your welding in awkward positions.
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I have a Lincoln 210MP. Thanks for the explaining on wire feed…your second paragraph stated something that I’ve noticed. I really struggle to get a concave bead. I’ve tried slow travel, fast travel, etc. the bead just piles up, if I move slow, it’s a fat bead, and if I move too fast, it’s thin and ropey.

I’m not consistent in my welds, so I’m not saying that it’s all machine. I just wonder if my feed might need to run a little faster to help out. Honestly, it’s been a bit frustrating, because no matter how often I try, I can’t get that concave shape that I want.
 
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Mike_H said:
I have a Lincoln 210MP. Thanks for the explaining on wire feed…your second paragraph stated something that I’ve noticed. I really struggle to get a concave bead. I’ve tried slow travel, fast travel, etc. the bead just piles up, if I move slow, it’s a fat bead, and if I move too fast, it’s thin and ropey.

I’m not consistent in my welds, so I’m not saying that it’s all machine. I just wonder if my feed might need to run a little faster to help out. Honestly, it’s been a bit frustrating, because no matter how often I try, I can’t get that concave shape that I want.
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Your machine is inverter based which has a more stable arc & constancy.

When you're inside the workable settings you should try to make small adjustments. It's important to only adjust 1 thing at a time volts OR wire feed (amps).
For example: If your weld is convex you can increase voltage by ½ a volt increments OR decrease WFS by 5-10 IPM increments
If your weld is concave you can decrease voltage by ½ a volt increments OR increase WFS by 5-10 IPM increments

Edit: There's nothing wrong with a slightly (1/16") convex or concave MIG weld.
 
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Mine are out there too. Both mine go to shade 13. I've seen conflicting reports of between 12 and 14 but most say 12. I also read that you should only be taking short looks. Might be a good idea to close your eyes till you're pointed at the sun to take care of any delay, and set your delay to the minimum if adjustable. Unless you're using a fixed lens.
 
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Is that really safe? Will the auto-darkening lens work?
We got a 10-pack of eclipse glasses for $10. I’m not sure which one I trust more!
 
I have to press the test button to darken the lens. I read 14 is required. I figure 13 plus my cataracts puts me at 14.🤣
 
Granite said:
Is that really safe? Will the auto-darkening lens work?
We got a 10-pack of eclipse glasses for $10. I’m not sure which one I trust more!
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Somehow I didn't even think about picking up the glasses till today. Still debating on whether or not I'll use the welding hood. If I do it'll just be a glance.
 
Granite said:
Is that really safe? Will the auto-darkening lens work?
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This was my concern.

Im not sure what my lincoln helmet shade is, I couldnt find that info anywhere on it. Though ACE Hardware near us though are selling eclipse glasses for $0.49.
 
IIRC we used some shade 14 passive lenses taped to some cardboard for the eclipse last year. I watched the whole thing & my eyes felt fine afterwards
 
Plasma cutters are becoming more readily available & I absolutely love mine. However, there's a few things I have learned & I think they should be considered for any would be buyers. First up, is you need an adequate air compressor typically 20 gallon & up. Each PC has a cubic feet per minute (CFM) requirement at 90 psi. You might be able to get away with a smaller one, but it will have to work harder to keep up. Second is you will need an air dryer which you can get from HF pretty cheap & some PCs come with a small one. Third is that they have consumables that need to be replaced: nozzle, shielding cup, swirl ring & electrodes. Also I recommend some type of stand off attachment because you can easily burn out the nozzle if your not careful. Most PCs come with a pilot arc feature, something to note about this is that the pilot arc does not need a ground clamp to be activated. This is important because if you don't have a good ground connection the pilot arc will still cut through thinner metals possibly gouge thicker metals, but this will eat your consumables almost immediately.

Cutting with a PC is simple. Aim, Squeeze, Drag. I recommend using the grind feature on your hood or a shade 5 lens. If your torch angle (90°) is off, your travel speed is too slow/fast or your amps aren't right, then it will cut like shit. The molten metal can actually re-fuse back together & you'll have to cut it again. There will be an excessive amount of dross (different from slag) which can usually be chipped off with a chipping hammer or cold chisel. I like to use a straight edge or a guide to slide the torch along so I can focus on cutting speed & less on where I'm cutting.

Once you've got a clean cut you will need to do some prep work before welding. PCs leave a nitride layer that case hardens the edge. It's typically only a few thousandths thick so a quick hit with a flap disc & you're good to go. If not removed this will reek havoc on your welds with porosity even if on the surface the weld looks good. When cutting off brackets say on a frame or axle sometime gouges can be left by the PC. I've found that using a band file works to remove the nitride layer without grinding away too much of the base metal.

Hopefully this doesn't dissuade anyone from getting a plasma cutter because they're extremely useful if used correctly.
 
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AirborneTexasRanger said:
Plasma cutters are becoming more readily available & I absolutely love mine. However, there's a few things I have learned & I think they should be considered for any would be buyers. First up, is you need an adequate air compressor typically 20 gallon & up. Each PC has a cubic feet per minute (CFM) requirement at 90 psi. You might be able to get away with a smaller one, but it will have to work harder to keep up. Second is you will need an air dryer which you can get from HF pretty cheap & some PCs come with a small one. Third is that they have consumables that need to be replaced: nozzle, shielding cup, swirl ring & electrodes. Also I recommend some type of stand off attachment because you can easily burn out the nozzle if your not careful. Most PCs come with a pilot arc feature, something to note about this is that the pilot arc does not need a ground clamp to be activated. This is important because if you don't have a good ground connection the pilot arc will still cut through thinner metals possibly gouge thicker metals, but this will eat your consumables almost immediately.

Cutting with a PC is simple. Aim, Squeeze, Drag. I recommend using the grind feature on your hood or a shade 5 lens. If your torch angle (90°) is off, your travel speed is too slow/fast or your amps aren't right, then it will cut like shit. The molten metal can actually re-fuse back together & you'll have to cut it again. There will be an excessive amount of dross (different from slag) which can usually be chipped off with a chipping hammer or cold chisel. I like to use a straight edge or a guide to slide the torch along so I can focus on cutting speed & less on where I'm cutting.

Once you've got a clean cut you will need to do some prep work before welding. PCs leave a nitride layer that case hardens the edge. It's typically only a few thousandths thick so a quick hit with a flap disc & you're good to go. If not removed this will reek havoc on your welds with porosity even if on the surface the weld looks good. When cutting off brackets say on a frame or axle sometime gouges can be left by the PC. I've found that using a band file works to remove the nitride layer without grinding away too much of the base metal.

Hopefully this doesn't dissuade anyone from getting a plasma cutter because they're extremely useful if used correctly.
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I've been planning to get a plasma cutter and, like so much of this thread, this is very helpful. Thank you!
I wouldn't cut much thicker than 3/8" mild steel (probably 1/4" or less most commonly). I've looked at a few plasma cutters and, just like welders, there is a huge price differential.

I looked at this 27amp MIller:

Miller SPECTRUM 375 X-TREME 12FT XT30 for $1829​

(https://www.weldersupply.com/C/124/MillerPlasmaCutting-14Ca)


and then there is this 50 amp machine is on Amzon:

Plasma Cutter, CUT50 50 Amp 110V/220V Dual Voltage IGBT Cutting Machine for $169​

(https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Cutting-Machine-Display-Accessories/dp/B07GB3T4KG/?tag=wranglerorg-20)​


What's so good about the Miller or so bad about the Amazon special?
 
Woodrow said:
I've been planning to get a plasma cutter and, like so much of this thread, this is very helpful. Thank you!
I wouldn't cut much thicker than 3/8" mild steel (probably 1/4" or less most commonly). I've looked at a few plasma cutters and, just like welders, there is a huge price differential.

I looked at this 27amp MIller:

Miller SPECTRUM 375 X-TREME 12FT XT30 for $1829​

(https://www.weldersupply.com/C/124/MillerPlasmaCutting-14Ca)


and then there is this 50 amp machine is on Amzon:

Plasma Cutter, CUT50 50 Amp 110V/220V Dual Voltage IGBT Cutting Machine for $169​

(https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Cutting-Machine-Display-Accessories/dp/B07GB3T4KG/?tag=wranglerorg-20)​


What's so good about the Miller or so bad about the Amazon special?
Click to expand...

As with welding machines, you're paying for the R&D done by the big boys (Lincoln, Miller, Esab, etc.) It's also most likely backed up by warranties & customer support which can be expensive. The cheap amazon ones will most likely work fine for moderate use so I don't think they're garbage. Make sure the amp rating they advertise will work for your electrical connection. 50 amps might need 220v instead of 110v

I think a lot of people also consider HTP, Hypertherm or Thermal Dynamics but they're not cheap either. Take a look at ESAB, Everlast or Hobart.

If you decide to drop $1K+ on a plasma cutter look for one that can also to TIG. Sometimes they are comparatively priced if not a couple of extra bucks more.

I bought the 250amp TIG/Stick/Plasma from Everlast & I'm very pleased after 3 years.

Edit: For 3/8" steel, 40 amps will work just fine.
Also I forgot to mention earlier that the consumables you buy need to match the power rating of the PC. 30 amp consumables wont last on a 50 amp machine
 
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Woodrow said:
I've been planning to get a plasma cutter and, like so much of this thread, this is very helpful. Thank you!
I wouldn't cut much thicker than 3/8" mild steel (probably 1/4" or less most commonly). I've looked at a few plasma cutters and, just like welders, there is a huge price differential.

I looked at this 27amp MIller:

Miller SPECTRUM 375 X-TREME 12FT XT30 for $1829​

(https://www.weldersupply.com/C/124/MillerPlasmaCutting-14Ca)


and then there is this 50 amp machine is on Amzon:

Plasma Cutter, CUT50 50 Amp 110V/220V Dual Voltage IGBT Cutting Machine for $169​

(https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Cutting-Machine-Display-Accessories/dp/B07GB3T4KG/?tag=wranglerorg-20)​


What's so good about the Miller or so bad about the Amazon special?
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Ouch price went up from when I bought mine a couple years ago almost 30%

https://bakersgas.com/products/hypertherm-088079?variant=28854894002229
 
Apparition said:
Ouch price went up from when I bought mine a couple years ago almost 30%

https://bakersgas.com/products/hypertherm-088079?variant=28854894002229
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1712678995089.png
 
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AirborneTexasRanger said:
As with welding machines, you're paying for the R&D done by the big boys (Lincoln, Miller, Esab, etc.) It's also most likely backed up by warranties & customer support which can be expensive. The cheap amazon ones will most likely work fine for moderate use so I don't think they're garbage. Make sure the amp rating they advertise will work for your electrical connection. 50 amps might need 220v instead of 110v

I think a lot of people also consider HTP, Hypertherm or Thermal Dynamics but they're not cheap either. Take a look at ESAB, Everlast or Hobart.

If you decide to drop $1K+ on a plasma cutter look for one that can also to TIG. Sometimes they are comparatively priced if not a couple of extra bucks more.

I bought the 250amp TIG/Stick/Plasma from Everlast & I'm very pleased after 3 years.
Click to expand...

I have a Miller multimatic 220 which can do TIG (though I can't, yet). I do need a bigger compressor and an air drier, so they are on the list. Is the air drier pre- or post- compressor?
 
Woodrow said:
I have a Miller multimatic 220 which can do TIG (though I can't, yet). I do need a bigger compressor and an air drier, so they are on the list. Is the air drier pre- or post- compressor?
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I have mine post then going directly to the PC because of condensation in the tank

Edit: Don't forget to drain the bowl periodically
 
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Be aware, very aware that not all torches are drag style and them that aren't will short circuit the plasma arc. I sold a small Hypertherm that I loved to get the next size up. After a few times of having the float the torch tip, I was about ready to throw the thing in the trash and go get my old one back.
Also be aware that as functional as a plasma can be, there are many times and places a good ole cutting torch with a scarfing tip will absolutely blow one away. In particular are cutting mounts off of axles. The plasma works, it only works marginally better than grinders, saws, and cut-off discs. That is unless you get one you can put the extended tip on but at 150 bucks a pop, not always economical.
 
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