I saw that too, and thought about asking if he was making a choo, choo train!
DylanM345 build
- Thread starter D M
- Start date
I saw that too, and thought about asking if he was making a choo, choo train!
My dad is a retired firefighter and he got his hands on two air horns from some decomissioned rigs. He put one in his F350, I was going with an air tank anyway for my lockers. Mine gets loud next!
Ended up doing the front midarm on @02GreenTJ instead, but was able to put in my front RJ3" and his old rear 2.5 OMEs, actually sits pretty level. The old ranchos had me at 4.5 front 5" rear lift, this is currently at around 3".
Looks pretty level to me, and now is no longer a monster truck lol
(Ignore the rocker
)
Looks pretty level to me, and now is no longer a monster truck lol
(Ignore the rocker
)
02GreenTJ
TJ Enthusiast
Ended up doing the front midarm on @02GreenTJ instead, but was able to put in my front RJ3" and his old rear 2.5 OMEs, actually sits pretty level. The old ranchos had me at 4.5 front 5" rear lift, this is currently at around 3".
Looks pretty level to me, and now is no longer a monster truck lol
View attachment 493315
(Ignore the rocker
Looks good no more skateboard stance. Thanks for the help.
02GreenTJ
TJ Enthusiast
Been on a hiatus with life, finally got a small break and was able to have a productive weekend.
HP30, new ball joints, new unit bearings, and the front midarm went in.
My front end is nearly perfect.
Just need to get my gears/lockers installed and some 35s. Wont be stretching the rear, just midarm/outboard 2.0 resi
More to come!
HP30, new ball joints, new unit bearings, and the front midarm went in.
My front end is nearly perfect.
Just need to get my gears/lockers installed and some 35s. Wont be stretching the rear, just midarm/outboard 2.0 resi
More to come!
looks good! and don't forget to weld in lower control arm bracket mini skids...
Nice dude! Looks like the JJs are offset from each other. I’d try to get them both neutral in the mounts, and also I would point that zerk up instead of down
Didnt notice that thanks for pointing that out! Do i need to remove the joint from the mounts or can i twist the arms to center them? And assuming this is to stop them from binding?
That is exactly why arms should NOT have wrench flats. If you don't have wrench flats, then you have to tighten the arms against the joints or scratch up the arms with a pipe wrench.
Assuming we don't want scratched up arms, we need to use another method.
Loosen the jam nuts, adjust the arm to the length needed. When that is done, use a prybar to rotate the joints in the mounts until they are turned all the way in the direction tightening will turn them. At that point, snug the jam nuts down. Alternate back and forth a little at at time until you can tighten one against the other without it coming loose. The joint will use the sides of the mount to stop it from turning. When you get them pretty tight, you can heave on the wrench without breaking the other side loose. That will also perfectly line them up with each other. No, it is not to stop them from binding, it is to stop them from breaking the jam nuts loose and ruining the threads in the arm.
Yep, you want the joints going the same direction. Sometimes it helps to stick a pry bar in there as your tighten the jamb nuts, as they will want to twist opposite directions when you tighten the jambs.
Many beers and a huge headache later...
Rear is done
Rear is done
Ill hopefully be going to an exhuast shop to have these installed. Way too loud with a cat and no muffler
Next on the list is regear, 35s, outboard and sliders
Next on the list is regear, 35s, outboard and sliders
Exhaust was done today. Was able to fit 2 of the glass pack style flowmasters. Its fairly loud outside the rig, but in the cab i can barely tell its there. Im very pleased with how it came out
In a trek to settle some idle/driving vibes, i was fortunate to find the thread @AndyG made on his lo-pro mount vibe fix. I did the 1/8 thick rubber washers in the frame rail, grinded the middle piece, and put the washers inbetween the transmission studs and the mount itself.
No more idle vibes! The jeep is getting more enjoyable to drive every day ever since the midarm with new joints, ball joints, unit bearings etc.
35 KO2s, and a regear will make this even better... they will be coming "soon"
No more idle vibes! The jeep is getting more enjoyable to drive every day ever since the midarm with new joints, ball joints, unit bearings etc.
35 KO2s, and a regear will make this even better... they will be coming "soon"
If I am seeing that correctly, how do you tighten the bolts onto the rubber washers enough to reach the proper torque value? Isn't this the JKS body lift problem?
Thats a great question that i actually dont have an answer to. Maybe andy knows? The bolts are rather small, i just tightened them to hand tight. Im sure ill report back if problems arise
This is exactly the JKS body lift problem. The bolts have a torque value to reach in order be tight and not let the transmission vibrate loose from the mount. The rubber washers prevent that from ever happening except for when they compress and extrude themselves away from the bolted connection. This means that the rubber washers cannot exist in the same place as the correctly tightened bolts at the same time.
Andy would know this if it weren't for his penchant for putting people who know how stuff works onto his ignore list.