What makes RockJock better than JKS or BDS? OR Auto VS Man Pt37

TerryD said:
That isn't a viable option for family trips though. LOL.

Anyways. Thanks for all the insights and everyone showing off their "Not A Jeep" rigs.

Can anyone comment on the longevity of the Johnny Joints in DD use?

As to the single/double adjustable, I've always held to using single for a couple reasons. Firstly, I can't see myself adjusting it regularly once I get it set. It's a bit of a pain, I'll admit, but not impossible.
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You say that now until you wind up with one of those that requires endless minute adjustments to dial out vibes. We'll do 30-40 minute adjustments in a couple of days of test driving and that would lower dramatically in the same time frame for single adjustable and take out what we can do in a day or two and extend it out to several days to do the same thing. But hey, you do you.
TerryD said:
Secondly, if a single adjustment comes loose, the link can't adjust itself going down the road. It's held pretty much in place thanks to not being able to rotate.
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There are 100's of connections on your rig that should NEVER be allowed to come loose. If you aren't mechanically inclined and adept enough to tighten stuff appropriately, dig your phone out of your purse so you can call someone who is.
TerryD said:
Third, it's one less screwed mechanical connection that could wear/strip/fail on each link.
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A properly tightened jam nut on a control arm threaded shank does not wear, strip, or fail or allow the threaded section to wear, strip, or fail.
TerryD said:
Are the second two reasons likely? Probably not and I know this. But I also deal regularly with similar double adjustable connections at work that come loose and wreak havoc on equipment so it's a personal bias.
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You are starting to sound like the guy who despises any control arm joint that resembles a rod end because the ones on helicopters require maintenance. Don't be that guy.
 
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Rickyd said:
Is this a swayloc vs antirock thread now?

Ok, antirock is just fine! It's cheaper and much better than swayloc!!!

Learn how to drive people!
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These discussions are reminding me more and more of auto versus manual. You know who shits on autos the absolute most? That's right, the folks who don't have them, don't drive them, don't use them, don't understand them, and have their manhood tied up completely in how a transmission shifts.

When the overwhelming majority of respondents state that they tried the SwayLOC, didn't like the performance, complexity, and other problems so they removed it and went back to discos and the AR, then we have something. Until then, it is just another auto versus manual thread where one side is clearly inexperienced but still thinks they have a valid opinion.
 
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Shank said:
What about the people that know automatics are better in almost every way but still prefer manual as they enjoy driving them, how does that play into the debate?
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It doesn't. No one is forcing anyone to choose a transmission type any more than anyone is forcing anyone to drive while wearing shoes or not.
 
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mrblaine said:
These discussions are reminding me more and more of auto versus manual. You know who shits on autos the absolute most? That's right, the folks who don't have them, don't drive them, don't use them, don't understand them, and have their manhood tied up completely in how a transmission shifts.

When the overwhelming majority of respondents state that they tried the SwayLOC, didn't like the performance, complexity, and other problems so they removed it and went back to discos and the AR, then we have something. Until then, it is just another auto versus manual thread where one side is clearly inexperienced but still thinks they have a valid opinion.
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I agree.i don't have either swaybar.figured we might as well chase it down to its conclusion.

I've had manual and auto tj's. I don't think either is better.they have characteristics that make them suited for different tasks. Though I'd say overall the auto is more useful

The big thing my manual tj does better offroad is crawl slower on steep long grades(miles worth) where an auto tends to run away. It's an odd feeling to have your brakes start to overheat and smell at 3mph. Narrow logging roads full of debris keep the speed down by necessity.
 
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Rickyd said:
The big thing my manual tj does better offroad is crawl slower on steep long grades(miles worth) where an auto tends to run away. It's an odd feeling to have your brakes start to overheat and smell at 3mph. Narrow logging roads full of debris keep the speed down by necessity.
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Fix your gearing in the auto and that pretty much goes away.
 
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mrblaine said:
Fix your gearing in the auto and that pretty much goes away.
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I mean with an equivalent axle to tire ratio.which the jeeps in question have.

To do what you say would keep the auto tj off the highway. Part of why I wish I could find a suitable overdrive trans for early tj's. If I stretched my tj I'd even consider the 42re and deal with it's issues
 
Rickyd said:
I mean with an equivalent axle to tire ratio.which the jeeps in question have.

To do what you say would keep the auto tj off the highway. Part of why I wish I could find a suitable overdrive trans for early tj's. If I stretched my tj I'd even consider the 42re and deal with it's issues
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Mine is geared as low as it can go and I have yet to have issues with not going slow enough either on or off road. In fact, if the axles were gearedv even lower to 589, the Jeep would do better on the highway than it does now.
 
JMT said:
Any more clearance for what?
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Tires hitting stock bar (yes I know I could add washers). I also have that $90 or whatever dirt cheap used AR I got on here sitting waiting to go in. The only real reason I want it is for that.
 
Rickyd said:
Rickyd said:
The big thing my manual tj does better offroad is crawl slower on steep long grades(miles worth) where an auto tends to run away. It's an odd feeling to have your brakes start to overheat and smell at 3mph. Narrow logging roads full of debris keep the speed down by necessity.
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To do what you say would keep the auto tj off the highway. Part of why I wish I could find a suitable overdrive trans for early tj's. If I stretched my tj I'd even consider the 42re and deal with it's issues
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With 35" tires, 5.38 gears, and a 42RLE automatic transmission with Rubicrawler that allows low ranges of 2.72:1, 4.0:1 and 10.78:1, I can go plenty slow and with Black Magic brakes I have adequate braking even for those gears.
 
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Mr. Bills said:
Whatever you say, Jerry.
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Mr. Bills said:
With 35" tires, 5.38 gears, and a 42RLE automatic transmission with Rubicrawler that allows low ranges of 2.72:1, 4.0:1 and 10.78:1, I can go plenty slow and with Black Magic brakes I have adequate braking even for those gears.
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I also can crawl pretty slow with my rubicrawler. I idled up Cadillac hill when we ran the Rubicon due to a slow group ahead of us.
 
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jjvw said:
Mine is geared as low as it can go and I have yet to have issues with not going slow enough either on or off road. In fact, if the axles were gearedv even lower to 589, the Jeep would do better on the highway than it does now.
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Mr. Bills said:
With 35" tires, 5.38 gears, and a 42RLE automatic transmission with Rubicrawler that allows low ranges of 2.72:1, 4.0:1 and 10.78:1, I can go plenty slow and with Black Magic brakes I have adequate braking even for those gears.
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Now imagine you don't have overdrive and the auto has no extra gearing or magic boxes since it is either detrimental to highway driving or unavailable. Stock for stock.

Your examples don't have any relevance
 
Rickyd said:
Now imagine you don't have overdrive and the auto has no extra gearing or magic boxes since it is either detrimental to highway driving or unavailable. Stock for stock.

Your examples don't have any relevance
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I’ve got a 32rh/4.56/231 and have done a lot of long grades on fire roads to and from rock crawling trails and I haven’t experienced any runaway or brakes overheating. Even with a 231 going down steep hills I don’t use my brakes. 1st gear is adequately slow. And I had a manual in the same setup for a few years as well.
 
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