Pressurized
TJ Enthusiast
I get it... In fact, possibly looking to buy the Savvy front set up just to be sure.I'll be interested in seeing that. There is about 300 ways to fuck that up, only a scant few to get it right.
I get it... In fact, possibly looking to buy the Savvy front set up just to be sure.I'll be interested in seeing that. There is about 300 ways to fuck that up, only a scant few to get it right.
All I know is that if you ain't ridin' on tuned, outboarded 12" Fox shocks, you just ain't ridin'...
@rasband not to single you out but you can’t really compare the climbing characteristics of an LJ to a TJ. That’s a lot of wheelbase difference.
Lmao y’all are such haters it’s hilarious to see you guys who have done “a few outboards” try to trash a guy who has done literally hundreds of outboards for a profession and has experimented with geometry an incredible amount over the years. Not with a calculator but real world trial and error. What Dave has done is offer a super low cost way to improve a short arm setup. That’s all. $160 to be exact. There’s no doubt if I had infinite money I’d be running a full midarm setup if I could afford it. But something for $160 that uses whatever arms I already have, substantially decreases body roll, improves handling, eliminates rear steer, makes it so I don’t have to trim my wheel well anymore to make room for the tire under articulation, eliminates track bar clearance issues, eliminates bind on Jack stands for easier more accurate cycling, and reduces hopping on climbs. All using my existing arms, that’s a pretty fucking sweet modification for the buck. Is it as good at climbing as the savvy midarm? No. Dave designed it to be an all around improvement for everything and make the rig more enjoyable to drive everywhere. Not necessarily to be the best at one thing. Savvy guys, we aren’t taking anything away from you lmao. Just saying this is a low cost viable option to make the rig drive better in all regards. And until you drive something Dave built then “you don’t know what you don’t know” as everyone seems to be saying lately.
@rasband not to single you out but you can’t really compare the climbing characteristics of an LJ to a TJ. That’s a lot of wheelbase difference.
The rear steer, or the twisting of the axle under articulation, is what would push the tire into the back wall of the wheel well. I suspect due to the steep downward angle of the arms on the droop side. I had to trim roughly 1.5” out of the rear wall before I had the corners. I put the corners on with the geo correction and cycled and the tire now goes straight up instead of back into the rear wall. No trimming needed on the new corners. That’s a nice plus. I had tried shortening my arms before and that still wasn’t enough.Tell us how rear steer was holding you back? How did you recognize it?
What was it about the factory lifted short arms that won't allow the tires to be tucked in the wheel well?
What track bar issues are there that aren't fixed with Currie?
The problem is that I have done enough to know a few things. And before you call me a Savvy mid arm fan boy, remind the crowd how often I tell people they don't need it.
For sure, I know you weren’t. Wasn’t trying to call you out at all just thought it was worth bringing up the difference between the two. Had a great time wheeling with you and hope to again some day!100% agree, I am just trying to understand it all and when/where it applies to me in an LJ. Sorry if anything above is considered talking trash - that's not my intent at all.
To be clear, I am not sold on a midarm (at least in the rear) - which is why I am curious about this as another option. It's definitely tempting for $160 and then to midarm the front.
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To be clear, I am not sold on a midarm (at least in the rear) - which is why I am curious about this as another option. It's definitely tempting for $160 and then to midarm the front.
The rear steer, or the twisting of the axle under articulation, is what would push the tire into the back wall of the wheel well. I suspect due to the steep downward angle of the arms on the droop side. I had to trim roughly 1.5” out of the rear wall before I had the corners. I put the corners on with the geo correction and cycled and the tire now goes straight up instead of back into the rear wall. No trimming needed on the new corners. That’s a nice plus. I had tried shortening my arms before and that still wasn’t enough.
The rear steer was also recognizable around corners. It would push the inside front tire up when throttling around corners. It doesn’t do that anymore.
I still had to trim my rear crossmember and even savvy gas tank flange to fit my Currie trackbar. Again not the end of the world like the wheel opening trimming but it’s certainly a plus. I also believe some of the stability gain is due to raising the axle side TB mount but I don’t know for certain.
Do the JW Geo Correction kits allow use of the OEM track bar??I still had to trim my rear crossmember and even savvy gas tank flange to fit my Currie trackbar.
I tried putting the lowers as short as they would go and same result.Sounds like the rear axle was pushed too far back like mine is on purpose. Q
That’s what Dave says but I haven’t tried it first handDo the JW Geo Correction kits allow use of the OEM track bar??
I've been waiting for an opportunity to show some ignorance, so here we go...Tell us how rear steer was holding you back? How did you recognize it?
What was it about the factory lifted short arms that won't allow the tires to be tucked in the wheel well?
What track bar issues are there that aren't fixed with Currie?
The supposed bind issue has already been beatened to death.
The problem is that I have done enough to know a few things. And before you call me a Savvy mid arm fan boy, remind the crowd how often I tell people they don't need it.
Dave prefers to use the OEM track bar.Do the JW Geo Correction kits allow use of the OEM track bar??
butt butt butt...It was a joke directed at the alleged problem of short arm bind
I'll go out of a limb and say, short of a deadly crash on the highway, that isn't the rear steer most are referring to that occurs during high articulation events.I've been waiting for an opportunity to show some ignorance, so here we go...
On my LJ I can notice rear steer when driving down the highway. Especially if its windy. Granted its really hard to tell the exact cause. It could be just the side wind. Being disconnected or having worn anti-sway bar bushings will also contribute to a loose feeling Jeep. But I think that rear steer is definetly a factor in that unsettled feeling you can get when lifted. I don't know that it would be a problem on a trail. I think its more a high speed stabilty issue.
So, I have a PM convo going with another member where I shared some of my experience on this exact topic. Over the last couple of days, my wife has driven the LJ to work, due to me doing some work on her JKU. She came back and said she immediately noticed how much more stable it felt on the road after the geo correction. Not an enthusiast or experienced offroad driver, and not prompted with any information, just someone that drove it plenty before and now after. Can't see how it could be a placebo effect on her, she had no expectations. It simply feels like it's working better...On my LJ I can notice rear steer when driving down the highway. <snip> I think its more a high speed stabilty issue.
Also to be clear I am 100% a savvy fan boy as well. They make good shit!And before you call me a Savvy mid arm fan boy, remind the crowd how often I tell people they don't need it.
You said you felt huge differences after the geo correction... I think mine was less dramatic, and I suspect that's due to wheelbase. My most notable changes were in compliance and stability. For instance going over a speed bump, I am using more shock travel, I'm confident of it. I suspect thats due to the flatter overall control arm angles. You felt it in handling... I suspect that was exaggerated over mine due to the Anti Rock, I'm still on the stock front bar which is quite stiff as we all know.The rear steer, or the twisting of the axle under articulation, is what would push the tire into the back wall of the wheel well. I suspect due to the steep downward angle of the arms on the droop side. I had to trim roughly 1.5” out of the rear wall before I had the corners. I put the corners on with the geo correction and cycled and the tire now goes straight up instead of back into the rear wall. No trimming needed on the new corners. That’s a nice plus. I had tried shortening my arms before and that still wasn’t enough.
The rear steer was also recognizable around corners. It would push the inside front tire up when throttling around corners. It doesn’t do that anymore.
I still had to trim my rear crossmember and even savvy gas tank flange to fit my Currie trackbar. Again not the end of the world like the wheel opening trimming but it’s certainly a plus. I also believe some of the stability gain is due to raising the axle side TB mount but I don’t know for certain.
Really I was just calling you guys out a little bit because I was sensing a good bit of condescending tone towards something you haven’t driven and is different than the status quo on the forum. I just want to encourage a little more open mindedness is all. I’ve learned a lot from your build about cycling and suspension and I appreciate that a lot.
There has to be a "reason" to skin cats?There is more than one way to skin a cat, you just got to know why your skinning the cat to begin with.
Tell us how rear steer was holding you back? How did you recognize it?
What was it about the factory lifted short arms that won't allow the tires to be tucked in the wheel well?