Drove my ‘06 Dodge Ram Diesel all over hell and back the last couple days chasing parts for the Jeep! 
What did you do to your other vehicle today?
- Thread starter Zorba
- Start date
Great parts chaser, not that anyone would be changing a lot parts out on a TJ.Drove my ‘06 Dodge Ram Diesel all over hell and back the last couple days chasing parts for the Jeep!
OP
Mercedes is like anybody else in many ways - they do some good things, and some not so good things. The heater hoses are a PITA to get at, and hard to obtain. Not that they're unavailable, but - like the V-belts - you're just as likely to end up with the wrong thing as you are the right.Leave it to our Hessian Friends to design a car that is good in many aspects, yet you can't change heater hoses or get
V-belts easily.
Honestly maybe the Germans should have just stuck with building air-cooled cars with 1 V-belt ,
and stone age simple wiring.
The original 2 litre diesel engine introduced in 1968 was carried forward into 2.2 and 2.4 litre versions. They all had a bottom mounted canister oil filter that was a ROYAL PAIN IN THE ASS to get back on correctly. I had a 240D (2.4 L), and grew up with a 220D (2.2L) - and both my father and myself had plenty of things to say about Germans, and Adolf Hitler, when dealing with that damn filter. I finally got just like my dad did - I'd do all sorts of work on that car, but I'd take it in for oil changes! And - like my father experienced - not even the mechanic always got it right. I had to take the 240D back one time because it was puking oil all over Goddess's green earth - then I found out the "trick" to that oil filter. Put it up on a lift, use a 4 foot BFSD/Prybar to rock the engine over on its mounts a half inch, then the damn thing would come in and out as easy as you please.
I have to say that when Mercedes fixes one of their screwups, they do a good job. Late version 240D engines, as well as the 3 litre, 5 cyl that I have, have a TOP mounted, and top opening, canister oil filter that is the utter model of how ALL oil filters should be done! Absolutely fantastic - and it sure beats not only the old style canister, but spin-on filters of all types. Particularly idiotic spin-ons that attach to the side of the engine block in a horizontal orientation, dumping oil all over the block upon removal!
Yeah, but how else do you insure proper lubrication / rust treatment of the exhaust pipe ? ! ?
I suppose the Benz has to rely on some sort of oil injector to dump some oil on the pipe ! LOL.
Is that your bus?
Do you know where the pics were taken and if it’s been restored?
These pics were taken in the HD parking lot at Happy Valley and the Lake Pleasant Pkw in June of 2015.
Edit: My photo was taken in 2015 NOT 2005 as I originally typed. Sorry for the confusion
BTW: @RINC I Love your avatar
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It's a '58 and I am not sure about what happened to it. My friend sold it off back in '07 for YUGE money.
My other other vehicle went Jeep parts gettin yesterday.
I did. Now I am Jeep poor again. Need to start working saturdays again.
I find it interesting that the 52 year old Chevy is still on the job dragging home expensive Jeep parts!!
Good for you RINC !
My Jeep is the 1st vehicle that I have with A/C. It's also the newest.
I have grown soft in the time of Jeep ownership, I need to add A/C to the non-A/C cab in the pick-up.
And so it begins !
Flip your vent wing windows full open and drive faster !
Or, pull the fuse for the Jeep A/C and install a CH 465 trans. and drum brakes !
I’m getting my 2013 GMC Sierra ready to sell to one of the local dealerships while the price is right. Discovered water in one of the headlight housings. No idea how it’s getting in there and I’m not going to replace it.
I pulled the housing and removed the bulbs. Took the cardboard roll from last TP roll I changed and shoved one end in one of the bulb holes and the other in the leaf blower. Shouldn’t take too long!
I pulled the housing and removed the bulbs. Took the cardboard roll from last TP roll I changed and shoved one end in one of the bulb holes and the other in the leaf blower. Shouldn’t take too long!
didnt know we had this thread.
96 c2500 pickup, been chasing sloppy steering and darty driving for the past year $$$$. its been a ongoing near daily project past few weeks waiting for parts and such week days I only have about 2 1/2-3 hours to work on it after work in the gravel driveway as the weekends had been ungodly muggy hot or rainy.
recently replaced the steering gear with a reman from redhead steering. what a improvement, steering wheel slop with the engine off went from 3" when twisting left/right from center to about 1/2" of slop.. very much tighter.
observed the pitman arm and idler mount were shot while doing the steering gear after a few short months even though there was plenty of greasing done to them (like every 5-700 miles). ordered complete Moog front end minus the lower ball joints.
waiting for the ball joints to arrive, 3 days after ordering..... the truck decided the fuel pump needed to kick the bucket finally at 283k miles at menards. half hour tow ran me $175 on a flatbed to my dads place.
following day I picked up a Delphi pump, took the metabo and cut a access hole under the tool box through the truck bed (dont worry, 1 more hole in the bed won't hurt it) I was hesitant to pull the bed or drop the tank due to rusty mounts in the bed. got the pump out and replaced it that night only to find that I managed to wiggle the steel fuel supply line clamped along the frame enough to cause the rust holding the fuel in the line to leak
placed a order with inline tube for new fuel lines.... more waiting.
4 days later fuel lines and separate Moog order arrived. swapped out the fuel lines in about 2 hours, no time to get to Moog parts)
following day replaced both upper ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman, idler and idler bracket, measured front of dust shield to dust shield for brakes prior to replacing parts and measured and adjusted before tightening the tie rod ends in place and successfully got it better aligned than I have in the past (need to set up a alignment next)
This truck has more value in parts than the truck is worth... and im stupid enough to keep putting money into it. id honestly value this thing at about $1k because it runs and drives lol.
parts replaced within the past year with brand new items include
Rear leaf springs and u bolts - $600
leaf spring hangers - $30
driveshaft u joints & carrier bearing - $200
front coil springs - $160
Trans pan gasket, filter, oil - $150... had to do this twice, first gasket weeped
front brake pads, slide pins, pads, misc - $100
lower and upper control arms - $180
steering gear - $300
ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman, idler and idler mount - $340
tires - $480
bilstein shocks - $230
tow - $175
fuel pump - $230
Fuel lines/filter - $100
my labor - free
$3275 total invested this year at 283k miles and a rusty body its not worth it... but at least it drives straight, doesn't clunk over bumps and tows sorta ok.
96 c2500 pickup, been chasing sloppy steering and darty driving for the past year $$$$. its been a ongoing near daily project past few weeks waiting for parts and such week days I only have about 2 1/2-3 hours to work on it after work in the gravel driveway as the weekends had been ungodly muggy hot or rainy.
recently replaced the steering gear with a reman from redhead steering. what a improvement, steering wheel slop with the engine off went from 3" when twisting left/right from center to about 1/2" of slop.. very much tighter.
observed the pitman arm and idler mount were shot while doing the steering gear after a few short months even though there was plenty of greasing done to them (like every 5-700 miles). ordered complete Moog front end minus the lower ball joints.
waiting for the ball joints to arrive, 3 days after ordering..... the truck decided the fuel pump needed to kick the bucket finally at 283k miles at menards. half hour tow ran me $175 on a flatbed to my dads place.
following day I picked up a Delphi pump, took the metabo and cut a access hole under the tool box through the truck bed (dont worry, 1 more hole in the bed won't hurt it) I was hesitant to pull the bed or drop the tank due to rusty mounts in the bed. got the pump out and replaced it that night only to find that I managed to wiggle the steel fuel supply line clamped along the frame enough to cause the rust holding the fuel in the line to leak
placed a order with inline tube for new fuel lines.... more waiting.4 days later fuel lines and separate Moog order arrived. swapped out the fuel lines in about 2 hours, no time to get to Moog parts)
following day replaced both upper ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman, idler and idler bracket, measured front of dust shield to dust shield for brakes prior to replacing parts and measured and adjusted before tightening the tie rod ends in place and successfully got it better aligned than I have in the past (need to set up a alignment next)
This truck has more value in parts than the truck is worth... and im stupid enough to keep putting money into it. id honestly value this thing at about $1k because it runs and drives lol.
parts replaced within the past year with brand new items includeRear leaf springs and u bolts - $600
leaf spring hangers - $30
driveshaft u joints & carrier bearing - $200
front coil springs - $160
Trans pan gasket, filter, oil - $150... had to do this twice, first gasket weeped
front brake pads, slide pins, pads, misc - $100
lower and upper control arms - $180
steering gear - $300
ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman, idler and idler mount - $340
tires - $480
bilstein shocks - $230
tow - $175
fuel pump - $230
Fuel lines/filter - $100
my labor - free
$3275 total invested this year
at 283k miles and a rusty body its not worth it... but at least it drives straight, doesn't clunk over bumps and tows sorta ok.
Last night the '07 Ram 2500 Hemi received a new Y/head pipe w/ cats. Back in April, I discovered the a break in the driver side pipe. Then I went on travel, and out of the country, for 7 weeks. By time I returned the crack had worsened. The R&R job was only 6 fasteners +4 O2 sensors. The O2 were easy because I replaced them last year. 5 of 6 fasteners were cooperative. The 6th, a Y-pipe flange grade 10.9 bolt snapped in the manifold flange. Once that was dealt with install was a breeze and the truck no longer sounds like a clapped out POS. . . .the rust bed says otherwise though.
I also discovered/confirmed that both exhaust manifolds leak (go figure) and both heat shields are floppin' around so that'll be a project for another day.
I also discovered/confirmed that both exhaust manifolds leak (go figure) and both heat shields are floppin' around so that'll be a project for another day.
Took the oldest grandson for a cheeseburger/ice cream run in the sidecar rig today.
After ice cream, he asked if we could take the longer way home. I may have a convert.
After ice cream, he asked if we could take the longer way home. I may have a convert.
A group of us took our side by sides to Idaho. I'm the one in the small motorhome, towing the red Honda Talon.
i put one of these in my civic mofo flys now. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QH7844C/?tag=wranglerorg-20