If they work together as well on the blue one as they have on the white it'll go really well. They can still share use of the white until the blue is ready. Maybe by then one lad will favour one TJ an the other the other TJ. They seem to have a good work ethic, no doubt the result of excellent parenting and fatherly guidance
That’s nice of you to say. I hope they will work together well on this one. The last one did have its challenges! They want to get done fast and this kind of work doesn’t always lend itself to going fast. The rust removal will be a pain in the butt, but if it can be done it will be a pretty nice rig. Nothing is so bad that it won’t last 5-10 years, and hopefully much longer once we get some things knocked out.If they work together as well on the blue one as they have on the white it'll go really well. They can still share use of the white until the blue is ready. Maybe by then one lad will favour one TJ an the other the other TJ. They seem to have a good work ethic, no doubt the result of excellent parenting and fatherly guidance
oh, I thought you already had it and were denying us pictures.... I was starting to have withdrawalsDude I know!
I don't pick it up till Saturday!
This will prove to be a true challenge for them. You're not going to like this, but anytime you deal with rust, I've found, it's best to pull everything you can. Doing so actually makes the job go faster than trying to work around everything and doing an incomplete job. To be fair, this is a time consuming process that involves, at a minimum, remove the following:
That is a true challenge for me Rich! I will take it to heart and see what I can do with them. I may have to figure out a way to do this in sections so that it can also be a daily driver since a major impetus for finally deciding on this rig was one of my sons got a job and the other is on the verge of getting a job. This is in addition to their small business. In the end they both need something to drive within the next couple of weeks (which is why I was asking you about your rig about a week ago!). O2 sensors are on order, new plugs will go in. I've got to get rid of those two codes (0133, 2069). If that gets worked out then all the fluids will get changed.This will prove to be a true challenge for them. You're not going to like this, but anytime you deal with rust, I've found, it's best to pull everything you can. Doing so actually makes the job go faster than trying to work around everything and doing an incomplete job. To be fair, this is a time consuming process that involves, at a minimum, remove the following:
Shocks
Springs
Control Arms
Steering
Track Bars
Front Axle (with steering)
Rear Axle
Gas Tank and Bumpers
Rear Inner fender Liners
Then I break down the front and rear axles to the housings, leaving the center section in. For the front, the brakes, hub bearings, dust shields, axles, ball joints and knuckles get removed (with center section in). For the rear, the brake cables (at the tub parking brake bracket), entire brake assembly, and the sway bar is removed. Then I go to town with either wire wheeling, flap disking, or blasting the rust, depending on the severity. After that it's time for degreasing, Rust Reformer, primer, and paint.
For the tub I degrease everything then start the wire wheeling, flap disking, or blasting. Same goes for restoration there, i.e. the Rust Reformer, primer, and paint. With the axles and tub done I move onto the frame, you know the drill here, time, time, and more time to clean the inside and outside of the frame, removing all the rust possible. All of this is done first, before any mechanical money is spent. Reason being, if I find something I really don't like I'm only into the task for labor and can bail if needed.
If I stick it out, then the spending of money and mechanical work commences. You ever wonder how I get the results I do? Simple, lots and lots of work. The good news is once it's done, the job of keeping up get much easier. The point here is that this will test their resolve and teach them, as you've already done, the importance of attention to detail and the consequences of ignoring things that shouldn't be ignored.
As always, just the ramblings of a rust zealot and old man!
Read this to get an idea of what you're in for...
That back corner has to go. Yikes
Damage to the front driver corner. Frame was not affected. The original flare is still on the Jeep. You can see how it was swiped. I think the fender itself was replaced.
Well if you can stop the rust from progressing , tub corners and sliders cover those areas and fenders can be dealt with many ways, in fact I have seen more complete fenders on CL than half doors. = .02
