05 Flame Red TJ Build

[JMT]

Thank you! Great tip. I'll go this route when I approach the task. We always have white vinegar in the house and gallons of distilled water for the twin toddlers (cleaning, humidifier, etc.).

Did you get my Excell document? We can work it out. I think you can do it.

 

[dla]

I like the silver, or stay black!

Thanks @dla. Great skill you’ve got there. Now I don’t have to just imagine what it would look like. Very helpful.

I agree, silver or stay black. The black on red makes the black sliders look like their hangin there out of place.

 

[FarFire70]

Did you get my Excell document? We can work it out. I think you can do it.

I don't recall an excel doc. Sorry if I miss something. If it was in the other thread, I need re-look it before I engage on the project.

 

[JMT]

I agree, silver or stay black. The black on red makes the black sliders look like their hangin there out of place.

Exactly my thought. The black slider looks like it’s just hanging out there very out of place. My wife said same thing too and one of my sons. I was hoping you’d pitch in your thoughts.

 

[JMT]

I don't recall an excel doc. Sorry if I miss something. If it was in the other thread, I need re-look it before I engage on the project.

I’ll send you an Excell document with paint procedures.

 

[JMT]

I’ve been dealing with a few issues since the transmission swap.

First, didn’t have a solution for the front turn signals and side marker. That’s all fixed with four 3/4” Amber LED’s. Two in the GR fender holes and two in holes I drilled in the stock fender. No feedback on the instrument cluster. Success.

Second, the used Mopar starter I purchased on EBay was not always engaging the flex plate. I ordered a $90 chinesium so I wasn’t stuck with downtime. It’s working flawlessly for now. In the meantime I took the Mopar starter apart and cleaned it really well. If China craps out I’ll toss Mopar back in.

Third, I got a P0058 code. Bank 2/Sensor 2 or PCM. My gas mileage last tank was 9.7. I started with the sensor. Frustrating bc the sensor was brand new NTK. The new one works well and the code is gone. 13.6mpg on this tank!

Now I’ve got a clunk underneath. I’ll look for it tomorrow.

I still need to install the Setrab cooler, but I’m in the middle of a laundry room make over.

 

[JMT]

I’ve got some electrical problems I could use some help on. Instrument cluster back lights don’t work. Fuse #10 (Instrument Cluster) is good and getting current. I pulled the instrument cluster and unplugged both plugs just to make sure they were seated. Plugged back in with no change. Turn signal indicators work, check engine works, et Al, but no backlighting.

Fuse #1 was glowing and I removed the fuse quickly. It was extremely hot and blown. I put another fuse in and the sequence is it gets hot and starts melting the plastic, then blows the fuse, but keeps glowing and melting the plastic. I cleaned the fuse blades and receptors as well as I could with no change. When I put a new fuse in I see a spark in the input side and it Immediately gets hot.

Fuse #4 (door defeat) is good, but no current passing through the fuse. When passenger door ajar there are three sets of double beeps and then nothing. When driver door ajar it beeps as normal till the door is shut. Any ideas appreciated.

 

[JMT]

If the tension in the fuse holder is not good then the connection will not be good, and heat will build which can blow the fuse.

Aluminum oxide can also build up on the fuse blades causing a poor connection with the same result.

Not sure how to fix the tension in the fuse holder. I can get better fuses with a thicker blade for a better connection, but the original fuse was a good fuse. Some of the others weee lower quality Amazon bulk.

 

[Wildman]

Were you having these issues with the wiring harness prior to the auto swap & new wiring harness? If not then I'd be looking at what you did when you installed the new harness and see if you can find an issue.
It's really strange that it will blow the fuse but continue to get warm.

 

[JMT]

Were you having these issues with the wiring harness prior to the auto swap & new wiring harness? If not then I'd be looking at what you did when you installed the new harness and see if you can find an issue.
It's really strange that it will blow the fuse but continue to get warm.

I did not have these issues before the auto swap. I swapped the dash harness, but the auxiliary fuse box is the same. However, some of the problems could be in the steering and instrument cluster area. I don’t know, but I’m terrible with electric. I think like Blaine said it’s the fuse quality. I need to go to the other thread and ask what a good quality fuse is.