Having run the LoPro mount, I wouldn't run it again. Just too much NVH for my taste. I would do a custom crossmember mount if you're looking for a compromise. Imagine being able to drop the skid without having to support the trany.
05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
Having run the LoPro mount, I wouldn't run it again. Just too much NVH for my taste. I would do a custom crossmember mount if you're looking for a compromise. Imagine being able to drop the skid without having to support the trany.
OP
Ok, how does this work? I’ve seen the Genright crossmember. Does it go from frame rail to frame rail to support the transmission? What does this mean for clearance under the TCase skid?
Yes the GenRight goes from rail to rail and the trans uses the crossmember as a mouting source.
OP
I read a bit on Genright crossmember last night. Would getting one mean I get rid of my transmission mount? Then I don’t need the UCF LoPro, but I still get the advantage of a partial TT? And no vibes through the crossmember?
Last edited:
The chances of you being able to run that skid without a sye/dc and adjustable uppers and not have vibes is slim to none. You are already 2+ inches of lift, adding 2" to the skid/case is 4" at the drive shaft. The lo pro mount only gives you 3/4" so you would still be at 3" + seen at the drive shaft. Full disclosure; I have not done it myself but I have talked (pm'd) several guys that have and none were able to do it without a sye/dc and at minimum adj uppers. One guy wasn't even lifted and couldn't do it on a stock drive shaft.
Using a separate mount like the Gen Right may be able to get around it since you don't even need to, or minimally, move the t/c to add a lower profile skid. Going totally flat will require much more work.
Using a separate mount like the Gen Right may be able to get around it since you don't even need to, or minimally, move the t/c to add a lower profile skid. Going totally flat will require much more work.
OP
OP
Ok, so I called Matt at UCF. He said with a 2.5" SL, 1.25"BL and 1"MML, going with the Extra Clearance Skid is going to give me 2" more clearance. He said the Lo-Pro drops the transmission 1". So overall net my transmission is moving up 1". That could (and probably will) give me driveline vibes. The short term fix for that is a 1" TCase drop which would put it right where it is now, so I'd only be getting 1" more clearance at this time and 2" if I do the SYE and DC later. Does that sound right?
My thought to him, which he agreed, was to go ahead and get a Ultra Clearance Skid and TCase Drop 2" and later I can do an SYE and DC and sell the Lo-Pro Mount and remove the TCase and be completely flat. Sound right?
My thought to him, which he agreed, was to go ahead and get a Ultra Clearance Skid and TCase Drop 2" and later I can do an SYE and DC and sell the Lo-Pro Mount and remove the TCase and be completely flat. Sound right?
Uh, sure
One of the guys I contacted did add an inch to his UCF skid until he added the sye and it worked fine. Personally I would wait and do it all at once but that's me. Of course any extra room is a plus considering how low the stock skid hangs.
When you do get the SYE, go for the super short version. That will give you a little longer drive shaft, which will also help.
OP
Installed my Savvy 1.25” Body Lift today. Undoubtedly my last mod for 2017! The Savvy kit is nice because it uses the stock rubber body mounts, which helps with vibrations.
Here’s what I did, some hints I learned and some problems I had. It was really cold outside, especially for TX, 22*, so I set up my friendly Mr Heater.
1. Remove gas cap.
2. Remove four torx screws that hold the gas fill bezel. If you don’t do this step the bezel could crack when you add the body pucks.
3. Remove four screws holding the fan shroud. If you don’t do this you could crack the shroud from stress. You’ll have to remove the Engine Coolant reservoir to get to the screw on the drivers side.
4. Remove the body mount bolts on the passenger side and front grill with a 5/8” socket. You will need a 12” extension to get to the one behind the rear shock mount. There are 5 body mounts on each side and 1 in the front under the grill, for a total of 11.
6. Loosen the body mounts on the driver side to ease the install.
7. Use a hydraulic floor mount to lift the passenger side of the tub from underneath the door where there is double thick body panel. Depending on how lifted your Jeep is, it’s very high, use a 4x4 placed vertically on your jack, or supports underneath.
8. Slip the body lift spacers in between the stock body mounts and the tub. This is a good time to replace rotten body mounts if you have some. Crown makes good replacements. If you use anti-seize, now is the time. Just keep in mind that your torque specs change with anti-seize. Finger tight only at this time. There are 2 different size bolts, so make sure you use the right ones at each location.
9. Remove snubber grill support, slip the bolt into the tub and out the hole if you can. Otherwise remove the headlight to get to it.
10. Use a little vasoline or lubricant to get the tapered snubber to slide into the Aluminum spacer and then screw it on the bolt.
I had trouble with the mount behind the rear shock mount. The threads in the tub were misaligned. I had to lower the jack and move to the drivers side for the time being
11. Remove body mount bolts on drivers side and repeat the process.
I was able to get the bolt to line up behind the rear shock mount on the passenger side when the drivers side was jacked up.
12. With the jack still on the drivers side, complete the last body mount in the front under the grill.
13. Torque everything down to spec. 6 body mounts on each side @50ft/lbs, 4 in rear and one up front @35ft/lbs (less if you used anti-seize)
14. Reattach fan shroud, 1” lower if you added a body lift only. Do the motor mount next if you are adding one and reattach at stock location when finished
15. Reattach 4 screws to gas fill bezel. If it’s too short you can lengthen it some by removing the two clamps and repositioning.
Before:
After:
Specs that changed:
1. LF from top of tire to bottom of flare. Before 5 7/8”; After 7 1/4”
2. RF before 6 1/8”; After 7 1/2”
3. LR Before 7 5/8”; After 9 1/19”
4. RR Before 7 3/8”; After 8 3/4”
Ready for 33’s! And get rid of some bumpstop! More to come!!!
Here’s what I did, some hints I learned and some problems I had. It was really cold outside, especially for TX, 22*, so I set up my friendly Mr Heater.
1. Remove gas cap.
2. Remove four torx screws that hold the gas fill bezel. If you don’t do this step the bezel could crack when you add the body pucks.
3. Remove four screws holding the fan shroud. If you don’t do this you could crack the shroud from stress. You’ll have to remove the Engine Coolant reservoir to get to the screw on the drivers side.
4. Remove the body mount bolts on the passenger side and front grill with a 5/8” socket. You will need a 12” extension to get to the one behind the rear shock mount. There are 5 body mounts on each side and 1 in the front under the grill, for a total of 11.
6. Loosen the body mounts on the driver side to ease the install.
7. Use a hydraulic floor mount to lift the passenger side of the tub from underneath the door where there is double thick body panel. Depending on how lifted your Jeep is, it’s very high, use a 4x4 placed vertically on your jack, or supports underneath.
8. Slip the body lift spacers in between the stock body mounts and the tub. This is a good time to replace rotten body mounts if you have some. Crown makes good replacements. If you use anti-seize, now is the time. Just keep in mind that your torque specs change with anti-seize. Finger tight only at this time. There are 2 different size bolts, so make sure you use the right ones at each location.
9. Remove snubber grill support, slip the bolt into the tub and out the hole if you can. Otherwise remove the headlight to get to it.
10. Use a little vasoline or lubricant to get the tapered snubber to slide into the Aluminum spacer and then screw it on the bolt.
I had trouble with the mount behind the rear shock mount. The threads in the tub were misaligned. I had to lower the jack and move to the drivers side for the time being
11. Remove body mount bolts on drivers side and repeat the process.
I was able to get the bolt to line up behind the rear shock mount on the passenger side when the drivers side was jacked up.
12. With the jack still on the drivers side, complete the last body mount in the front under the grill.
13. Torque everything down to spec. 6 body mounts on each side @50ft/lbs, 4 in rear and one up front @35ft/lbs (less if you used anti-seize)
14. Reattach fan shroud, 1” lower if you added a body lift only. Do the motor mount next if you are adding one and reattach at stock location when finished
15. Reattach 4 screws to gas fill bezel. If it’s too short you can lengthen it some by removing the two clamps and repositioning.
Before:
After:
Specs that changed:
1. LF from top of tire to bottom of flare. Before 5 7/8”; After 7 1/4”
2. RF before 6 1/8”; After 7 1/2”
3. LR Before 7 5/8”; After 9 1/19”
4. RR Before 7 3/8”; After 8 3/4”
Ready for 33’s! And get rid of some bumpstop! More to come!!!
Last edited:
Starrs
TJ Guru
OP
OP
Appreciate the kind words! Dec 23 was my 1year Jeep anniversary. Most I’d done before on an auto was change the oil 3-4 times. Lots of people here have taught me so much! Frankly, they taught me everything I know.
More Savvy parts coming tomorrow!
P.s. You both have beautiful Jeeps! Well done and tasteful. I’m looking forward to Ranger Bob setup and just to see where you go next Starrs. I can see your antsy!
Last edited:
I don’t know how I wasn’t following this thread. Great work and details. Wondering about the comment on if anti seize is used torque specs are different. Can you tell me what it would be if antiseize is used.? Dave seems to use it on Everything and I follow his lead. Thanks!