05 Flame Red TJ Build

[PStov98TJ]

I do really like the tummy tuck first idea. I think too many people see a TT as a "hard core" modification...as if lifting the Jeep and completely changing the geometry of your suspension isn't a crazy idea. If I've learned one thing, it's that most mods are not too "hard core". That only really starts when you get the welder out in my opinion.

I agree with @bobthetj03 - If I could do it all again, it would be very tempting to just go as flat as possible with the t-case skid and spend my money there first. After you get the skid, a low-profile tranny mount, new driveshaft, and an SYE, it'll cost about the same as a lift...but you will have gained a lot by raising the lowest point of your rig (other than the axles, and bigger tires are the only fix for raising the diff up). Then later on, you can install fenders and/or a lift and go bigger with tires if you want.

And congrats on the new wheels and tires man! You've officially started down a path that will leave you broke, but smiling the whole time.

 

[Rob5589]

Looks great, man! Optimally you would want a re-gear with 32/33. Depending on your type of wheeling, I would look into lockers, and a Super 35 kit if you do not have the 44 option. That and a higher clearance skid and go to town. If you find you need even more clearance, climbing boulders, etc, then 33's and re-gear.

 

[JMT]

I do really like the tummy tuck first idea. I think too many people see a TT as a "hard core" modification...as if lifting the Jeep and completely changing the geometry of your suspension isn't a crazy idea. If I've learned one thing, it's that most mods are not too "hard core". That only really starts when you get the welder out in my opinion.

I agree with @bobthetj03 - If I could do it all again, it would be very tempting to just go as flat as possible with the t-case skid and spend my money there first. After you get the skid, a low-profile tranny mount, new driveshaft, and an SYE, it'll cost about the same as a lift...but you will have gained a lot by raising the lowest point of your rig (other than the axles, and bigger tires are the only fix for raising the diff up). Then later on, you can install fenders and/or a lift and go bigger with tires if you want.

And congrats on the new wheels and tires man! You've officially started down a path that will leave you broke, but smiling the whole time.

I read Chris' build on the tummy tuck and what may be involved. Lots of stuff. I was trying to add it all up $, might take $1200-1500 to do it right. Would be awesome and just keep the 31's. I was curious, do you have to re-gear if you keep thinner tires, say, a 32x10.5 or a 33x10.5? What I'm asking is does the width make a difference in the gearing?

 

[JMT]

Looks great, man! Optimally you would want a re-gear with 32/33. Depending on your type of wheeling, I would look into lockers, and a Super 35 kit if you do not have the 44 option. That and a higher clearance skid and go to town. If you find you need even more clearance, climbing boulders, etc, then 33's and re-gear.

Thanks, these are some interesting ideas. The Super 35 runs about 1K since I am running a Dana 35. What lockers do you recommend. By higher clearance skid are you saying the whole nine yards tummy tuck? I'm only lifted 1.75" right now...

 

[bobthetj03]

the width of the tire will not make a difference for your gearing. It's the diameter of the tire that does it, although a skinnier tire means less rolling mass weight wise. I have 33x1050x15's, and re-gearing was needed with my 5 speed manual.

 

[Rob5589]

For lockers, Detroit or ARB for rear, Aussie or No Slip in frt. Tire width adds weight, a narrow 33 still needs gearing, same as the standard 12.5". A high clearance skid, tummy tuck, sorta the same thing, depends on how far you want to take it, really. It would be great to have a skid that does not take so much work. I was looking at mine last night; that thing is freakin huge and low hanging.

 

[JMT]

I really wish I had gotten on this forum before I started making mods. I added a 1.75" BB (Rubicon Express) with monotube shocks. Now I'm wishing I had just held out for a 2" OME. Not much lost, perhaps, but is there a way to replace the spacer with the OME coil springs and get the track bar relocation bracket replacement? Can I use the shocks I just put on? They are RE but made by Bilstein. I already have bump stop extensions. If I could do this it would save me like $500

 

[bobthetj03]

I really wish I had gotten on this forum before I started making mods. I added a 1.75" BB (Rubicon Express) with monotube shocks. Now I'm wishing I had just held out for a 2" OME. Not much lost, perhaps, but is there a way to replace the spacer with the OME coil springs and get the track bar relocation bracket replacement? Can I use the shocks I just put on? They are RE but made by Bilstein. I already have bump stop extensions. If I could do this it would save me like $500

I think you'd be ok with those shocks, but to be sure, measure the extended/collapsed lengths. OME shocks for that lift are...

Front: 22.36/13.19"
Rear: 22.12/13.35"

If your shocks come anywhere close to those lengths, you should be fine.

 

[glwood]

I think you'd be ok with those shocks, but to be sure, measure the extended/collapsed lengths. OME shocks for that lift are...

Front: 22.36/13.19"
Rear: 22.12/13.35"

If your shocks come anywhere close to those lengths, you should be fine.

X2. I had a BB & Rancho shocks on prior to my OME lift, but when I did the swap, I measured the Rancho & OME collapsed and extended shock lengths, they were pretty much identical. As long as the shocks are the right length, no problem using with OME springs, if you are happy with them.

 

[JMT]

Thanks to both bob and glwood. I called RE. Here's what they gave me. Looks good for 2".

Front 23.5/14.9
Rear 23.8/14.8

With these specs could I go with a 2.5" OME springs?

 

[bobthetj03]

Thanks to both bob and glwood. I called RE. Here's what they gave me. Looks good for 2".

Front 23.5/14.9
Rear 23.8/14.8

With these specs could I go with a 2.5" OME springs?

Yes. Just make sure you bumpstop accordingly if you need to. You have a little bit less collapsed length there, so you don't want to be bottoming out the shocks at full stuff.

 

[glwood]

Thanks to both bob and glwood. I called RE. Here's what they gave me. Looks good for 2".

Front 23.5/14.9
Rear 23.8/14.8

With these specs could I go with a 2.5" OME springs?

Looks like those are 1.5 - 1.7" inches longer collapsed, so you might need to adjust the bump stops somewhat.

I see @bobthetj03 beat me to it...

 

[JMT]

I extended the bump stops 1.75" when I installed the RE spacers. So that should keep them from bottoming out, yes? Sorry for so many questions, this is all new stuff to me...

 

[bobthetj03]

I extended the bump stops 1.75" when I installed the RE spacers. So that should keep them from bottoming out, yes? Sorry for so many questions, this is all new stuff to me...

Only way to be absolutely sure is to check when you replace the springs. When you pull the front springs, remove your front shocks and stuff the axle to the bumpstops, then measure from the bottom shock mount to the top shock mount to determine its collapsed length. If its shorter than the shock can collapse then you need additional bump stop.

 

[JMT]

How important is the steering stabilizer that comes with the OME 2" kit? From what I'm reading it saves your steering components and makes for a better ride.

 

[FTI76]

How important is the steering stabilizer that comes with the OME 2" kit? From what I'm reading it saves your steering components and makes for a better ride.

It's not really important. Steering stabilizers are all valved 50\50. If you were going with the OME kit and their yellow-gold shocks I would pop it on their to look pretty but for what you are doing I don't think it's necessary.


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[PStov98TJ]

If your stock one is still functioning, and not leaking oil, just use it until it wears out. No reason to buy another one when the one you've got is working fine.

 

[JMT]

What's the EASIEST way to remove the coil springs?

 

[Rob5589]

Jack it up, put it on jack stands at the frame, leave jack under diff, remove tires, remove shocks, loosen trackbar, loosen control arms, lower jack, springs literally fall out. It is super easy and quick.

 

[PStov98TJ]

Jack it up, put it on jack stands at the frame, leave jack under diff, remove tires, remove shocks, loosen trackbar, loosen control arms, lower jack, springs literally fall out. It is super easy and quick.

If you need more droop after that, you can remove the sway bar links too. If they still don't fall out, put the jack under the inner C and jack it up, opposite spring will fall out. Repeat for the other side.