I’m not sure I like the look of the new bumper in all aluminum, but I may just not be used to it. If I don’t warm up to it I may pull it and paint the bumper black and leave the rock guards silver. It makes me want to do a front frame lift to draw the bumper in closer to the grille. The Aluminum makes you see too much.

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I’m going to wash the rope and re-spool using the locked brummel method @mrblaine shared on the forum. I lost my plastic crappy fid and ordered a new better one that should be here tomorrow.

Warn bumper weight vs Fluxor

IMG_4430.jpeg
 
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I’m not sure I like the look of the new bumper in all aluminum, but I may just not be used to it. If I don’t warm up to it I may pull it and paint the bumper black and leave the rock guards silver. It makes me want to do a front frame lift to draw the bumper in closer to the grille. The Aluminum makes you see too much.

View attachment 554972View attachment 554980View attachment 554987

I’m going to wash the rope and re-spool using the locked brummel method @mrblaine shared on the forum. I lost my plastic crappy fid and ordered a new better one that should be here tomorrow.

Warn bumper weight vs Fluxor

View attachment 555020

Personally, I like aluminum look giving you have the aluminum fenders to balance it but it's ultimately your call.
 
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After installing the new @Fluxor front bumper I needed to get out and re-spool the winch line. I used the Locked Brummel method used by @mrblaine to get started, attached the line to a tree uphill and was able to use the winch controller to spool it tight so no line gets buried and cause a problem later.

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I’ve had vibrations at idle that are driving me crazy, so I made numerous attempts to clearance above the transmission in the tunnel. I also noticed the TCase was very close to the Savvy MUA crossmember and there had been some rubbing, so I removed the crossmember and cut 1/2” off so it clearances.

Before:
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Rubbing:
IMG_4636.jpeg

Cut and repainted:
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I have more work to do.
One thing I want to fix is the exhaust dump under the rig. It’s annoying.
 
I’ve had vibrations at idle that are driving me crazy, so I made numerous attempts to clearance above the transmission in the tunnel. I also noticed the TCase was very close to the Savvy MUA crossmember and there had been some rubbing, so I removed the crossmember and cut 1/2” off so it clearances.

Before:View attachment 563565

Rubbing:
View attachment 563566
Cut and repainted:
View attachment 563567

I have more work to do.
One thing I want to fix is the exhaust dump under the rig. It’s annoying.

I am curious how this works out. I replaced my trans mount just because when I rebuilt the 42rle and the vibration it idle was so bad made me think something was wrong. Changed back to an OE mount and all went away. I noticed the parts store mount was waaaay harder.
 
I am curious how this works out. I replaced my trans mount just because when I rebuilt the 42rle and the vibration it idle was so bad made me think something was wrong. Changed back to an OE mount and all went away. I noticed the parts store mount was waaaay harder.

Next step is to get some actual Clevite bushings for the Savvy MUA crossmember. I believe the word Clevite is supposed to be on them. Not on mine. Right now I’m not sure where to get them or what size.

I have an OEM transmission mount I bought a few years ago just in case I need to fab up a crossmember for an Atlas. So the extra rubber is there if I need it.
 
I am curious how this works out. I replaced my trans mount just because when I rebuilt the 42rle and the vibration it idle was so bad made me think something was wrong. Changed back to an OE mount and all went away. I noticed the parts store mount was waaaay harder.

Something that can cause vibrations, especially at idle, is running a different isolator material in the tranny mount and the motor mounts. If your motor mounts were stock rubber, and you installed the harder tranny mount, that could have been it. Likely the reason the vibe went away when you went back to a stock rubber tranny mount.
 
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I believe the word Clevite is supposed to be on them. Not on mine. Right now I’m not sure where to get them or what size.

I’m curious about this. @mrblaine has repeatedly said that the bushings need to be Clevite but I have never been able to find a celvite “brand” bushing. I know it’s supposed to be bonded with the sleeve, but I’m guessing materials can very. I don’t ever remember seeing it stamped in mine.

Mine still has a bad vibe at idle from time to time. I haven’t checked tranny tunnel clearance yet. I haven’t touched the Jeep in almost three months. Life is crazy right now.
 
I’m curious about this. @mrblaine has repeatedly said that the bushings need to be Clevite but I have never been able to find a celvite “brand” bushing. I know it’s supposed to be bonded with the sleeve, but I’m guessing materials can very. I don’t ever remember seeing it stamped in mine.

Mine still has a bad vibe at idle from time to time. I haven’t checked tranny tunnel clearance yet. I haven’t touched the Jeep in almost three months. Life is crazy right now.

Here's one
https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/clevite-lower-control-arm-bushing
 
Something that can cause vibrations, especially at idle, is running a different isolator material in the tranny mount and the motor mounts. If your motor mounts were stock rubber, and you installed the harder tranny mount, that could have been it. Likely the reason the vibe went away when you went back to a stock rubber tranny mount.

That’s interesting, I had poly motor and trans mount in my sbc V8 YJ and never had idle vibes. So maybe motor mounts and trans mounts made with the same OE control arm style bushings? I thought it was just a 4.0 thing and that’s why the OE motor and trans mounts are such a soft durometer.