05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
So...no one has said it yet so I guess i'll be the first. Take that JKS rod end with the Johnny joint and bend it! Pull the guts, heat it up with a torch, and make it be at the angle you need. Don't overthink it. Big Crescent wrench will do it. I guess you'll need to find someone with a torch, but that shouldn't be too hard.
Also, JKS removed the JJ from their newer rear trackbars for the TJ in favor of their own high mis-alignment joint. If you end up not using that JJ end, I'd be willing to take it off your hands...I have the JKS version and would much prefer the JJ version.
Also, JKS removed the JJ from their newer rear trackbars for the TJ in favor of their own high mis-alignment joint. If you end up not using that JJ end, I'd be willing to take it off your hands...I have the JKS version and would much prefer the JJ version.
OP
I've got a propane torch, will that work? Why do I need to pull the guts? I tried to pull the snap ring yesterday and it bent two snap ring plier ends. These are a nice craftsmen set with set screws for different tips. I've also got a giant pipe wrench that I could get some leverage behind. I have a vice, but I have a hard time getting it to stay still when I put any muscle into it. I've never done anything like this, so how long do I put the torch on it and do I turn the bar to evenly heat each side, or just put the heat on it on the side I want to bend?
You'd want to pull the guts so the heat doesn't mess with anything. I suppose if you heat it up and the end isn't hot you'd be good.
A propane torch will work but will take longer. I've always tried to bend before they get red hot and let cool naturally. My thought was that it wouldn't weaken the metal. Heating both sides. I have not attempted something hollow though.
Harbor Freight also has a pipe bender for around $100 if you'd feel more comfortable not using heat.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-to...MIzNybmd2u6QIVPiCtBh3RTwItEAQYASABEgIdyvD_BwE
A propane torch will work but will take longer. I've always tried to bend before they get red hot and let cool naturally. My thought was that it wouldn't weaken the metal. Heating both sides. I have not attempted something hollow though.
Harbor Freight also has a pipe bender for around $100 if you'd feel more comfortable not using heat.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-to...MIzNybmd2u6QIVPiCtBh3RTwItEAQYASABEgIdyvD_BwE
That is a 1" shank? I don't think a propane torch would do it, but maybe. Like @Alex said, its gonna take some time. You are for sure going to want to pull the guts out of the JJ if you try to use a propane. You'll heat the whole thing so much the polyurethane will melt.
To take apart the JJ, you need to compress the joint before you pull the snap ring. Here is a video. They make a tool for rebuilding them. It makes a difficult job very easy. Maybe someone close has one to borrow?
This is the way I would do it. I'm no fabricator, but I stayed at a Holiday inn last night.
First, get that joint apart. I posted in my jeep group FB page when I rebuilt my arms and found someone willing to let me borrow the tools. Next, find a friend, neighbor, acquaintance with an Oxy-Acetylene set-up. There is a bit of a learning curve for adjusting the flame.
Clamp the joint in a bench vise and get the shank hot. You want it red, but not glowing. I'd use a big crescent wrench around the threaded end, parallel to your bend direction, and simply pull. Its still gonna take some arm strength. You don't want to use a pipe wrench because the teeth will damage the threads.
You might also just try bolting the one @Wildman sent you and making sure its got the right "kick" to it. Yes, there isnt a joint, but you should still be able to tell if the angle of the dangle is correct. Then just bring the bare shanks to a mechanics shop with a dozen doughnuts and ask them to make the less bent one match the more bent one.
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You'll need to fashion a contraption to relieve the preload on the JJ in order to release the snap ring and pull the guts, and then do the same to re-install it. Currie makes a tool to do this, but if you are creative you can make your own.
I tried making my own...I got something to work...but the tools are SO much nicer. I agree though, for one joint, you can probably struggle with a couple sockets and some All-Thread
OP
OP
Yeah, I looked at that pipe bender a few days ago and watched a video. I wondered if it was only for hollow pipe. I actually walked to a couple neighbors houses yesterday who have garages asking if they had a pipe bender.
OP
Yeah, I'm going to mock up the one @Wildman sent me before going to any trouble. Nice video. John makes it look easy. I'm sure with the tool it is.
OP
I might look at adding some additional anchor points from the skid to the crossmember that are not in proximity to the trackbar, then eliminate those that are in the way.
It's very curious that you're having the fitment issues with the trackbar. However, I've only done two Savvy UA installs. Both of the ones I did had the Savvy gas tank skid. One had a stock track bar, with relocation bracket, and one, mine, had a MC track bar. Both cleared the gas tank skid with no issues.
I’m running the MC track bar with no issues but I also have the Savvy GTS and UA. Plus my brackets are a bit different being on a RockJock 60.
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My only guess, having no experience with other installs, is the 18*pinion rotation is angling back my angled trackbar relocation bracket enough to cancel out any gains. It’s almost upright on the axle.
Hard to tell from this picture, but my angle was close to that. Looking at the control arms on mine, I had them adjusted out and I had the wheelbase very close to 93".
OP
I think @Chris had problems with the rear trackbar when he did his tuck. Maybe he could remind us of his solution.
OP
Well, that would change my pinion angle. Right now it’s at 18 and the shaft is at 20. I don’t think I want to creep away from that.