Got the TCase bearing replaced, case sealed up, everything except the skid back together.

No change.

🤷‍♂️

It was a good exercise in how to spend $100 and waste 8 hours.

I’m going to buy a mechanics stethoscope.
 
Last edited:
Got the TCase bearing replaced, case sealed up, everything except the skid back together.

No change.

🤷‍♂️

It was a good exercise in how to spend $100 and waste 8 hours.

I’m going to buy a mechanics stethoscope.

Damn.....
Really thought that bearing was the culprit.
 
I just want to be able to drive the Jeep. It’s probably something really stupid.

Why? Why? Why? This is driving me crazy.

It almost always is. I hope that you can figure it out soon.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
You went to Jeep hell and never got out. I’m nowhere near feeling your pain man!
It's livable right now, but still not right. Can you step back and determine exactly when the shuddering started and what you were doing with the jeep at that time?
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
It's livable right now, but still not right. Can you step back and determine exactly when the shuddering started and what you were doing with the jeep at that time?
The best I can recall I had been fooling around with pinion angles front and rear. The shattering now is only when I have the rear shaft in. If I remove it then all of it goes away. When I get home I’m going to adjust opinion. But right now it’s 22.3 at opinion and 23.7 on the shaft. That’s almost 1° low pinion which is where you want to be. But I’m gonna adjust it anyway. The other thing I did was put some rear brake pads on. Calipers are the same calipers as before. But the sound I don’t think begin like immediately with any of those things but kind of gradually came on
 
  • Wow
Reactions: DrDmoney
I took it for a drive. If I’m in gear and stomp the accelerator it shudders, no matter what speed, no matter what gear. If I take it out of gear I can stomp the accelerator and no problem.

Transmission fluid is full. Rear gears are good. I’m working on the rear pinion angle. It may be a little low.

Questions:

The CA’s are what they are, but does the axle have to be square to the frame?

I’m going to rebuild the rest of the CA’s. Trying anything to find out what’s wrong.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
I took it for a drive. If I’m in gear and stomp the accelerator it shudders, no matter what speed, no matter what gear. If I take it out of gear I can stomp the accelerator and no problem.

Transmission fluid is full. Rear gears are good. I’m working on the rear pinion angle. It may be a little low.

Questions:

The CA’s are what they are, but does the axle have to be square to the frame?

I’m going to rebuild the rest of the CA’s. Trying anything to find out what’s wrong.
So no noise while in neutral at speed but once you hit the gas aggressively noise?

Sounds like checking out the uppers is defiantly the next step.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
So no noise while in neutral at speed but once you hit the gas aggressively noise?

Sounds like checking out the uppers is defiantly the next step.
Exactly
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
The best I can recall I had been fooling around with pinion angles front and rear. The shattering now is only when I have the rear shaft in. If I remove it then all of it goes away. When I get home I’m going to adjust opinion. But right now it’s 22.3 at opinion and 23.7 on the shaft. That’s almost 1° low pinion which is where you want to be. But I’m gonna adjust it anyway. The other thing I did was put some rear brake pads on. Calipers are the same calipers as before. But the sound I don’t think begin like immediately with any of those things but kind of gradually came on
You broke the rules, only one change at a time 🤦🏼‍♂️
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
You broke the rules, only one change at a time 🤦🏼‍♂️
I agree with you 100%. It’s good to talk this through actually. It’s making me think. In my defense, I did the pinion angles first. I started in the front. I was trying to get some caster back. I got to 4.8* or so. That’s not bad with larger tires. I moved to the rear and ended with the pinion around 1.4* low. I Drove it and thought the angles were better because the HV didn’t come on till 72 mph rather than 64. However, there was a low drone through all the gears. It was faint and may simply have grown worse. I realize now that the shift in HV may be entirely due to moving from 33’s to 35’s without changing gears. Something seems awry with the rear angles, even though they are good, they may not be good enough.
 
i've seen the mention of bigger wheels and the notion they can run with less than stock castor. but i have also found material that says the direct opposite, stating a larger wheel should have a bit more.

i know it not what you wanna hear but if those joints are dry enough to start crumblin, they are dry enough to have lost elasticity.

and i don't think you wasted your time in that SYE, that bearing was a good find and likely caught your next problem b4 it caught you.
 
Last edited:
i've seen the mention of bigger wheels and the notion they can run with less than stock castor. but i have also found material that says the direct opposite, stating a larger wheel should have a bit more.

i know it not what you wanna hear but if those joints are dry enough to start crumblin, they are dry enough to have lost elasticity.

and i don't think you wasted your time in that SYE, that bearing was a good find and likely caught your next problem b4 it caught you.
You’re right about the bearing. My venting got the better of me.

I hope it is the arms. That’s an easy fix. 👍🏼
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01
Since we are throwing out spit balls, put the 33's back on and drive it.
That’s a real easy fix. I will try that after I get the pinion perfect.

1. Pinion
2. Tires
3. CA’s

Hopefully I can get to some of this today. Busy week
 
  • Like
Reactions: bobthetj03