Basically outboarded now.
Basically outboarded now.
Selling and moving now gets you nothing. Wait until your current tires wear out, then make the move. Chances are, the options will be better then!I've pretty much decided I'm going to a 17" wheel. I really wanted to stay with 15", and I have plenty of tire choices that I would be happy with, but after more research I think the pros of a 17" wheel outweigh those of a 15". It doesn't even have much to do with the direction of the market or load, it's probably mainly in more on-road stability with a 8-9" sidewall height over 10". I don't think there is much if any advantage aired down on a 15 vs 17 with a 35" tire. The other thing is that wheels are getting so expensive that I'm already at $225 or so just for a regular sucky wheel, so why not spend twice that and go to beadlocks. That said, I won't do it just yet, though I do have two sets picked out. I'm currently riding on a set of 35 KM3's with about 4K on them. I could sell them and go all in on 17" beadlocks and tires, but I'm in no hurry. Other things like welding projects for this year and some more painting if I can. I've got a bulged disc pinching a nerve and it pretty much debilitates me, so I have to get that all worked out. Plus I have the Rubicon to get in order before end of Summer, so I'm plenty busy. At any rate, thought I would share that. There's a lot more to the discussion and reasoning.
Im having a very difficult time getting them to balance. First time was terrible. Second time I got their good guy on them. He thinks it’s the wheels. He tried multiple orientations. I wanted all stickies on the inside of the wheel, but after an hour I resorted to letting him use some of the clamp on style on the inside. I’ve already lost one of those. Even from that balance they weren’t balanced. I can live with it for awhile, but I don’t want uneven wear on the tires.Selling and moving now gets you nothing. Wait until your current tires wear out, then make the move. Chances are, the options will be better then!
He has a machine to check this. Ask them to stop being lazy and find out.He thinks it’s the wheels
I think he did. It’s been 6 months, so my memory is a little faint. It’s why I’ve been looking since way back then on and off, especially when I was distracted by the Adams driveshaft fiasco. Plus, I want out of the DC-2’s. You were the one got me thinking more about Beadlocks. What put me over the edge was the cost of normal wheels has increased so much. I could do a 15” Beadlock and move these tires over for $2k. Lots of other options like OMF, but I’d rather not modify the DC-2’s. No steel Beadlocks of interest to me. Coyotes do interest me, but I’d still need new wheels that I like and I’m very picky. I’m also injured right now and could not perform that labor.He has a machine to check this. Ask them to stop being lazy and find out.
Countless. There’s this loose hill climb a few miles from me. Then there’s this trail called Rollercoaster and when it’s snowed over I need to be down to 6psi.How many times have you thought you needed to air down to 6 psi to make an obstacle?
I think there is a little bit of this! ^^^You're overthinking it. Typical teacher, lol!
The Hutchinson bead locks (like @Plumber1 has) are an internal double bead lock, definitely a high buy in but if you need a new wheel and you go with the Coyotes the cost is the similar. Personally I abuse my wheels when wheeling and I like having a lock ring to grind on vs my wheel.Countless. There’s this loose hill climb a few miles from me. Then there’s this trail called Rollercoaster and when it’s snowed over I need to be down to 6psi.
Really it’s just that I can’t stand to spend $1k on wheels I don’t like when I can spend $2k for one’s I do like AND get more functionality. It’s the same reason I did a full tuck rather than a partial. If I’m going to go part way I may as well go all the way. No use half-assing it. I literally can’t find a typical wheel I like. I kind of like the Ansen 969’s but wrong size and color. I sorta like the Walker Evans but wrong color. I like Mamba Moab look-alikes but backspacing is 4.5. Those would all get beat to hell anyway and add no functionality. Over-thinking it is my specialty. I’ve been thinking on this two years now. Even my wife says get new wheels.
Im open to suggestions. I checked all the companies that @Fouledplugs mentioned in his beadlock thread. I also looked at the builds of several of you top guys on here which was interesting to say the least.
This is the one feature of a beadlock I really like. A sacrificial rock ring!Personally I abuse my wheels when wheeling and I like having a lock ring to grind on vs my wheel.
Personally I abuse my wheels when wheeling and I like having a lock ring to grind on vs my wheel.
We’re all on the same page then.This is the one feature of a beadlock I really like. A sacrificial rock ring!
I air down to 9psi all the time and never lose a bead. If I did it wouldn’t bother me much. I just can’t find a non-beadlock wheel I’m willing to spend $225+/wheel on and gain no functional advantage. That’s one reason I’m heading toward a beadlock.I think there is a little bit of this! ^^^
Having run beadlock wheels a couple times, I can't justify the cost and performance loss I experienced with them. If I go that route again, it would be with the Coyote beadlock system. That way you get a true locked tire on the rim. That said, you have folks here like @jjvw who wheeled their Jeeps hard without beadlocks. Maybe they had a tire that lost the bead occasionally, but it's really not a big deal.
What performance loss are you referring to?I think there is a little bit of this! ^^^
Having run beadlock wheels a couple times, I can't justify the cost and performance loss I experienced with them. If I go that route again, it would be with the Coyote beadlock system. That way you get a true locked tire on the rim. That said, you have folks here like @jjvw who wheeled their Jeeps hard without beadlocks. Maybe they had a tire that lost the bead occasionally, but it's really not a big deal.
Some of those sacrificial rings cost more than a normal wheel. My rings are scratched to hell, mostly from the Rubicon.This is the one feature of a beadlock I really like. A sacrificial rock ring!
Beadlock wheels can add 15+ lbs per wheel of unsprung weight. This impacts braking, acceleration, and handling. For me, it was very noticeable.What performance loss are you referring to?
How did the tires work for you?Some of those sacrificial rings cost more than a normal wheel. My rings are scratched to hell, mostly from the Rubicon.
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I hate the look of the DC-2’s. They are also beat up from the inner to the outer. At times I have to remove sharp points that protrude over the edge toward the tire. They won’t balance.can't poke a hole in those DC's and use the coyote's?
don't see you mentioning wheel damage often so do you need the rock rings or the double bead lock and run flat?
new rims and coyote's might be less or at least comparable to aluminum BL's.
Not worried about scratches. Rings are around $120 each. Not a bother to me.Some of those sacrificial rings cost more than a normal wheel. My rings are scratched to hell, mostly from the Rubicon.
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