05 Flame Red TJ Build

[JMT]

When I get the Savvy transmission skid installed, I am going to get a no spill system like a Stahlbus for draining the oil at oil changes. Do I need a drain attachment that is straight, 45*, or 90*? Or is this something I have to wait to know?

 

[Irun]

90 should work. Are you doing the engine skid as well?

 

[JMT]

90 should work. Are you doing the engine skid as well?

Sorry, yes, I should have referred to it with the full name: Savvy engine & transmission skid. Thanks for the answer to my query.

Post in thread '05 Flame Red TJ Build'
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/05-flame-red-tj-build.3998/post-1505958

 

[oldjeepman]

I had a drain like that on my last TJ. It had a 1/2" nipple on it that I attached a plastic tube on with a special tool. ( wooden clothespin ) that drain into oil container ( use cat litter jug ) no mess...

 

[JMT]

I had a drain like that on my last TJ. It had a 1/2" nipple on it that I attached a plastic tube on with a special tool. ( wooden clothespin ) that drain into oil container ( use cat litter jug ) no mess...

I'm going with the No Spill System. I have some part numbers for the standard, but need to reach out for the compact. You can add a straight, 45* or 90* drain for easy, no spillage oil drain. Once I get all this going I will report back. Most use the Stahlbus, Fumoto, or EZ System. I'm not sure anyone has used the No Spill System.

https://nospillsystems.com/

 

[JMT]

Savvy continues to confuse me.

 

[JMT]

This is the link to the compact version of the No Spill System for oil changes. Also see the drainer options underneath on the same page.

https://nospillsystems.com/product/25-12720-01/

 

[Apparition]

Savvy continues to confuse me.


View attachment 507194

I believe Savvy confuses themselves

 

[Mike_H]

I'm going with the No Spill System. I have some part numbers for the standard, but need to reach out for the compact. You can add a straight, 45* or 90* drain for easy, no spillage oil drain. Once I get all this going I will report back. Most use the Stahlbus, Fumoto, or EZ System. I'm not sure anyone has used the No Spill System.

https://nospillsystems.com/

I had Fumoto...but it SUCKED trying to work around the engine skid. I could get the lock undone, but the valve didn't have enough room to rotate. Changed it out for a Stahlbus and things are mucho better

 

[Apparition]

I had Fumoto...but it SUCKED trying to work around the engine skid. I could get the lock undone, but the valve didn't have enough room to rotate. Changed it out for a Stahlbus and things are mucho better

I simply don't change the oil.

 

[JMT]

Thanks to @Mike_H for the MORE bomb proof MML. Thanks to @red02tj for the panel door piece(s). Hate to tell you this, but a tiny part on the red one was broke where it must snap on inside the HEVAC. Thank you though. I’ll see what I can do!

 

[red02tj]

Thanks to @Mike_H for the MORE bomb proof MML. Thanks to @red02tj for the panel door piece(s). Hate to tell you this, but a tiny part on the red one was broke where it must snap on inside the HEVAC. Thank you though. I’ll see what I can do!

View attachment 507309

Bummer…see if the black one works it wasn’t as clean a print but it should still snap in. If not, I’ll take a closer look at the model and printer settings.

 

[Mike_H]

Thanks to @Mike_H for the MORE bomb proof MML. Thanks to @red02tj for the panel door piece(s). Hate to tell you this, but a tiny part on the red one was broke where it must snap on inside the HEVAC. Thank you though. I’ll see what I can do!

View attachment 507309

I hope the motor mounts work out for you

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Bummer…see if the black one works it wasn’t as clean a print but it should still snap in. If not, I’ll take a closer look at the model and printer settings.

Does the material make difference there? Or is that part of the component just too inherently weak?

Really cool that you are able to do that.

 

[Mike_H]

Does the material make difference there? Or is that part of the component just too inherently weak?

Really cool that you are able to do that.

Material but more likely orientation of the print. 3d prints are considerably weaker "with" the layers vs perpendicular to them. Snaps are tough to get consistant results with and if you print the flex direction perpendicular to the layering, they will break.

 

[red02tj]

Material but more likely orientation of the print. 3d prints are considerably weaker "with" the layers vs perpendicular to them. Snaps are tough to get consistant results with and if you print the flex direction perpendicular to the layering, they will break.

Usually I end up printing toys for the kids, this has been a good opportunity to get into more of the model designs. Ps I did a firmware up and temp calibration after your last suggestion.

 

[Apparition]

Usually I end up printing toys for the kids, this has been a good opportunity to get into more of the model designs. Ps I did a firmware up and temp calibration after your last suggestion.

What infill are you using?

Here's what one of my Jeep parts looks like.

 

[red02tj]

What infill are you using?

30%

 

[Apparition]

30%

I wonder if the tabs ended up being 100% based on the settings.

 

[Mike_H]

Usually I end up printing toys for the kids, this has been a good opportunity to get into more of the model designs. Ps I did a firmware up and temp calibration after your last suggestion.

Keep it up! Its a fun process to be able to make "real" parts. I made a new auto shifter bezel for my Jeep because the originals are REALLY F-n expensive.

But I come by the snaps breaking knowledge honestly...(upper left corner).