05 Flame Red TJ Build

[mike d]

im running 35" tires on 17" rims, 1 3/4" body lift 2" suspension lift . 4 cyl , standard shift, stock gears. i get no binding or wheels hitting, it runs ok on the stock gears . not as good as with 15" 31" tires, but its a manual trans so i can shift to keep my rpms where its power range is ok but noticeable change from tire swap.

 

[JMT]

I finally bought a 33x12.5r15 spare to match my set. I’m 7,500 miles into my Cooper STT Pro’s and have done one 4-point rotation at about 2,000 miles. This data will be interesting for those who have a recent set. I wanted to work a fifth tire into the rotation so I bought a new one today and had it mounted and balanced. I had them rotate and balance the others. When they measured my tread depth they were all 17/32”, so they are wearing very evenly at this point, confirming good alignment and tire pressure. I run 26psi. The tires begin with 21/32” tread, so at this rate on the roads I drive you lose 4/32 (1/8”) for every 7,500 miles. With the 5th tire in the rotation I’m calculating I can get 25,500 miles on this set. At that point I estimate I’ll be down to 7/32”. No muy bueno, but they are MT’s, so what do you expect!? Here’s a pic of the new spare on my Jeep. Not the best pic, but hey, there’s tomorrow...Jeep is almost perfectly level with this setup

 

[KCsTJ]

I finally bought a 33x12.5r15 spare to match my set. I’m 7,500 miles into my Cooper STT Pro’s and have done one 4-point rotation at about 2,000 miles. This data will be interesting for those who have a recent set. I wanted to work a fifth tire into the rotation so I bought a new one today and had it mounted and balanced. I had them rotate and balance the others. When they measured my tread depth they were all 17/32”, so they are wearing very evenly at this point, confirming good alignment and tire pressure. I run 26psi. The tires begin with 21/32” tread, so at this rate on the roads I drive you lose 4/32 (1/8”) for every 7,500 miles. With the 5th tire in the rotation I’m calculating I can get 25,500 miles on this set. At that point I estimate I’ll be down to 7/32”. No muy bueno, but they are MT’s, so what do you expect!? Here’s a pic of the new spare on my Jeep. Not the best pic, but hey, there’s tomorrow...Jeep is almost perfectly level with this setup
View attachment 54482

@JMT are you planning on doing all tire rotations at 2000 or was the 2000 mile rotation for data purposes then you can extrapolate future wear from that 1st measurement.

 

[JMT]

@JMT are you planning on doing all tire rotations at 2000 or was the 2000 mile rotation for data purposes then you can extrapolate future wear from that 1st measurement.

I had them off to change my shocks to the Rancho 5000x, so I just rotated them. Couldn’t hurt I figured!

 

[ac_]

You will get more miles if you put miles on off-road. The tires won't wear so fast off roads. Well in the dirt. Rocks can tear them up. Looks great.

 

[bobthetj03]

Based on your wear calculations, it appears the Coopers will wear about the same as the first gen STT's. I do a lot of street driving as well. I have 31K on my KM2's and have some odd wear. 2 tires are at 9/32, and 2 are 11/32.

 

[KCsTJ]

@JMT , when you prepped your new axle, prior to painting, was the prep work mainly sanding/brushing and removing dirt?

Or was there a primer you sprayed on prior to the Zero Rust Aerosol?

 

[JMT]

@JMT , when you prepped your new axle, prior to painting, was the prep work mainly sanding/brushing and removing dirt?

Or was there a primer you sprayed on prior to the Zero Rust Aerosol?

Prep was surface rust removal with all kinds of wire brushes, sanding discs, etc...to reach all the hard to reach places. Then wiping down everything 2-3 times with alcohol. No Primer was needed or used. Zero Rust is direct to metal. It’s a rust converter. It seals off whatever rust remains from oxygen, so rust doesn’t return. So far it still looks great, even better than initially. It’s just sitting there. I should find out this weekend if September 21 or 22 is a go for doing the regear and locker. If not, I’m all ready to go ahead with the locker myself and will do it Sept 21.

 

[tomtaylz]

Prep was surface rust removal with all kinds of wire brushes, sanding discs, etc...to reach all the hard to reach places. Then wiping down everything 2-3 times with alcohol. No Primer was needed or used. Zero Rust is direct to metal. It’s a rust converter. It seals off whatever rust remains from oxygen, so rust doesn’t return. So far it still looks great, even better than initially. It’s just sitting there. I should find out this weekend if September 21 or 22 is a go for doing the regear and locker. If not, I’m all ready to go ahead with the locker myself and will do it Sept 21.

I just got three cans of zero rust myself for my LJs frame. There’s a tiny amount of surface rust on it which I’m going to make a project out of. Glad to hear it sounds pretty easy.

 

[JMT]

I just got three cans of zero rust myself for my LJs frame. There’s a tiny amount of surface rust on it which I’m going to make a project out of. Glad to hear it sounds pretty easy.

It will be, especially on the frame. An axle has a lot more crevices with all the mounts. I think the color will be close to original.

FYI, Blaine says that Krylon Semi-Flat is a perfect frame color match

 

[bobthetj03]

I just got three cans of zero rust myself for my LJs frame. There’s a tiny amount of surface rust on it which I’m going to make a project out of. Glad to hear it sounds pretty easy.

get a few Scotchbrite pads and scuff off the surface rust, then clean with wax/grease remover, then Zerorust. Should do the trick.

Red Scotchbrite pads:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M97NU9S/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Wax/grease remover:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008QDSVPE/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[ac_]

Hey don't worry if the dude stands you up. I am going to order my front gear today or tomorrow. And if the guy stands you up, I will help you. We can face time while we do our own respective gears. I am leaning more towards a Eaton e-locker now. still trying to decide. I am also going to order extra carrier bearings to hone out and make a tool if I do, and an extra crush sleeve just in case.

 

[Boinked]

Hey don't worry if the dude stands you up. I am going to order my front gear today or tomorrow. And if the guy stands you up, I will help you. We can face time while we do our own respective gears. I am leaning more towards a Eaton e-locker now. still trying to decide. I am also going to order extra carrier bearings to hone out and make a tool if I do, and an extra crush sleeve just in case.

@ac_ I have a set of set up barings you are more than welcome to use.

 

[ac_]

@ac_ I have a set of set up barings you are more than welcome to use.

I really appreciate that, and I will take you up on that if I go with the lunchbox locker, but If I go with the Eaton it takes different bearings, so I don't think the standard ones will work. I will ask when I order the locker what the difference is. Thanks for the offer.

 

[JMT]

Hey don't worry if the dude stands you up. I am going to order my front gear today or tomorrow. And if the guy stands you up, I will help you. We can face time while we do our own respective gears. I am leaning more towards a Eaton e-locker now. still trying to decide. I am also going to order extra carrier bearings to hone out and make a tool if I do, and an extra crush sleeve just in case.

@ac_ I have a set of set up barings you are more than welcome to use.

It's the setup bearings, and a few other tools that I'm hoping to save on, since once you add up all those tools I'd need it's another $150 bucks or so. Christmas is getting close and lots of presents for all. Money is at an end. I have a few more odd jobs I can pick up. Your offer to help is awesome! I'm fairly confident that with the right tools I can do it. I'd just have to exercise some patience. I could do the rear on the bench, so there's no time crunch there. Once I do that I think I'd be in a better position to do the front and get it back in for my DD. Eaton E-Locker front and rear. Very nice. If we end up moving up north to snow country, which is something else on the table, I may have to ditch the PowerTrax and do a selectable, but time will tell.

I will get the gears done sometime. It's just I'm running out of weekends this year. After Sept 21-22 I don't even know when I might be able to get to it. That's why, no matter what, I'm installing my PowerTrax No Slip on Sept 21. That's relatively easy, I think, and I will at least be ready to tackle some obstacles I've been eyeing at our mid-Oct wheelin trip. Many thanks for the offer to help. Face time would work!

 

[JMT]

Oh, and @ac_ and @Boinked, my most fearful part of the gears is setting that pinion depth. Gotta have setup bearings for that, and as you mentioned, a couple of crush sleeves. It would be nice if it goes in right the first time, then get the carrier set and see those depths just right, that would be nice....the carrier is much easier to mess with.

 

[JMT]

I really appreciate that, and I will take you up on that if I go with the lunchbox locker, but If I go with the Eaton it takes different bearings, so I don't think the standard ones will work. I will ask when I order the locker what the difference is. Thanks for the offer.

No need for setup bearings with the lunchbox. You can probably do it without even removing the carrier. Just remove the pin, take out the spider gears, side gears and thrust washers, install the lunchbox locker in their place, wallah. Even if you have to remove the carrier and the ring gear, there's no need for setup bearings, just do it on the bench and put the ring gear back on the carrier exactly as it was and the carrier back in exactly the way it came out. Easy peasy

 

[Boinked]

At least on my Dana 30. The shims are outboard of the barings. And were one solid piece. They didn't work for my new carrier. If you are just changing spiders without removing the carrier you will be fine. But if you are regearing then you will need them.

 

[ac_]

No need for setup bearings with the lunchbox. You can probably do it without even removing the carrier. Just remove the pin, take out the spider gears, side gears and thrust washers, install the lunchbox locker in their place, wallah. Even if you have to remove the carrier and the ring gear, there's no need for setup bearings, just do it on the bench and put the ring gear back on the carrier exactly as it was and the carrier back in exactly the way it came out. Easy peasy

Yes as @Boinked pointed out, even if I went with the powertrax I am still regearing so I would need the set up bearings regardless.

I am opting out of the second set of pinion bearings because. Honestly in all of my years of setting up gears I have never had to change the depth. I have always been lucky enough to just reuse or set the shims to the same size and have it work. I am banking on it this time too. If I do find that I need to change it. I will probably hone out the bearing and order a new set if I have too, because it is not my daily driver it can sit while I wait for the new bearings, but I just don't want to order two sets of bearings for no reason.

@Boinked I know you had some issues with your oil slinger, but in the end did you have to change your pinion depth?

 

[Boinked]

Yes as @Boinked

@Boinked I know you had some issues with your oil slinger, but in the end did you have to change your pinion depth?

In the end i removed the oil slinger. And shimed behind the race. Rather than under the barings. (On the pinnion)

And i think i was wrong about the Dana 30 carrier shims. They are under the barings. It was yhe Dana 35 that was outboard.

When you are ready to do it. I have no problem letting you use everything I have for it. Dial gauge w/ magnetic mount. My extra making compound. Beam torque wrench. If you need them.