If you need a hand just yell, I got on at Wendle so I'm held prisoner until 5 but I'm free after that
It helped my leak slow downRemoved the front outer seal from the TCase. The FSM just says pry it out. It was a little stubborn, but a screwdriver and a rubber handle to hit the handle gradually worked it out. I’ll replace it on Monday with the new one. I don’t have the special tool listed in the FSM that helps you tap it in over the output shaft, so I’ll make one the correct diameter out of solid 3/4 wood and put a pipe over the shaft and tap it in. Till then the Jeep is down.
I also picked up some Conventional High Mileage 10W-30 to see if it will work wonders for my RMS. I hope. The leak is slow.
Knew you could do it! great job.The clutch is done, tranny is back on the Jeep. It only took about 7 attempts to get the tranny splines to line up with the clutch splines and go in. When it went, I knew. I got tired of trying to line up the tranny jack to get it lined up, so I just lifted it off my chest and my boys snuck the bolts in when I got it lined up. That dude is heavy. I’m glad I’m only 47 years old and my hands are strong.![]()
Thanks for the encouragement to just get into it Mike.Knew you could do it! great job.
Ford or Nissan dealership? What department do you work in?If you need a hand just yell, I got on at Wendle so I'm held prisoner until 5 but I'm free after that
I had a somewhat small drip, it would leave small puddles around if it sat long enough, crazy thing is I replaced my RMS when I rebuilt the motor 15k miles ago... and it leaks- used 5 quarts valvoline 10w30 conventional, and 1 quart Penzoil high mileage conventional(penzoil was the only non synth high mileage they had at orileys) and it has slowed my leak damn near completely. I have literally 1 drop hanging off the pan now after I drive. Id consider that a winRemoved the front outer seal from the TCase. The FSM just says pry it out. It was a little stubborn, but a screwdriver and a rubber handle to hit the handle gradually worked it out. I’ll replace it on Monday with the new one. I don’t have the special tool listed in the FSM that helps you tap it in over the output shaft, so I’ll make one the correct diameter out of solid 3/4 wood and put a pipe over the shaft and tap it in. Till then the Jeep is down.
I also picked up some Conventional High Mileage 10W-30 to see if it will work wonders for my RMS. I hope. The leak is slow.
they didn't come from the factory with that drip? haha , mine has the same 1 drop that is always present.........it's never fallen to the driveway so it can't be to bad right?I had a somewhat small drip, it would leave small puddles around if it sat long enough, crazy thing is I replaced my RMS when I rebuilt the motor 15k miles ago... and it leaks- used 5 quarts valvoline 10w30 conventional, and 1 quart Penzoil high mileage conventional(penzoil was the only non synth high mileage they had at orileys) and it has slowed my leak damn near completely. I have literally 1 drop hanging off the pan now after I drive. Id consider that a win
I had a somewhat small drip, it would leave small puddles around if it sat long enough, crazy thing is I replaced my RMS when I rebuilt the motor 15k miles ago... and it leaks- used 5 quarts valvoline 10w30 conventional, and 1 quart Penzoil high mileage conventional(penzoil was the only non synth high mileage they had at orileys) and it has slowed my leak damn near completely. I have literally 1 drop hanging off the pan now after I drive. Id consider that a win
That gives me confidence this might work. I’ve had a drop since I bought it with 46k miles. Nothing has changed (except the oil pan is bashed in) and I’m now at 88k. Over time there’s all this gunk between the pan and the tranny dust cover. I had the Pennzoil in hand for about $40, then I saw the O’ Reilly’s Irish stuff for $25. It says it has the same seal softening additives, so I went with it. After I get all the sensors and brackets attached back to the tranny and filled w Royal Putple I’ll get the shifter console back together and run the engine for awhile, then drain the oil and put the new stuff in. Can’t believe I missed this solution till recently.they didn't come from the factory with that drip? haha , mine has the same 1 drop that is always present.........it's never fallen to the driveway so it can't be to bad right?
I assume it was the original seal. Amazon updated and it will arrive Saturday.Was that the original seal on the TC? Kudos to you for sticking it out and doing the work yourself (I knew you could do it) but next time you get frustrated let me know and I'll head your way with my trailer and a lowball cash offer.JK
That would work... If he had strong enough hands to tighten the chuck!Do you have a strong drill? I was floating the idea of spinning it on the bench to see if it will leak.....
Was that the original seal on the TC? Kudos to you for sticking it out and doing the work yourself (I knew you could do it) but next time you get frustrated let me know and I'll head your way with my trailer and a lowball cash offer.JK
This is good advice that I know I forgot. For as soulless as the JK is, I was able to do fun mods on mine since I wasn't doing things to keep it functioning correctly. My LJ only has 45k miles on it and I have a laundry list of things I need to address when the weather gets warmer, and I'm not sure where I'll find the time.There have been fleeting moments I wanted to sell.One piece of advice for wannabe TJ builders is, can you deal with the issues? I imagine it’s that way with any car enthusiast. It does make me appreciate the engineering behind these rigs. Crazy they produce so many that are relatively problem free out of the factory.