1 inch lift recommendations?

[Richard1958]

I’m having the hideous 3” BL taken off my ‘02 and installing a 1.25” in its place in case I get 33’s sometime in the future. I’d like a more aggressive stance, but I’m not going any higher with BL. I don’t do any serious wheeling anymore; mainly Class 6 roads and light stuff.
I was thinking if a 1” lift because it keeps me out of the technical stuff like SYE and such. Any suggestions on a good quality kit (if they exist)?

 

[SSTJ]

I'm interested. This kind of thing is helpful to those of us with stock SEs, because without regearing, 31s are the upper limit.

 

[Gollywomper]

Under 2” I would go with a spacer type lift. Pretty cheap to do. Just keep an eye on your shock bias, up vs down travel.

 

[Chris]

You don't need a suspension lift, just grab some Savvy 1.25" body lift mounts and you'll be good to go. Seriously, that's the way to to it IMHO.

 

[SSTJ]

FYI, I once posted this thread, asking for similar advice.

 

[Gollywomper]

I think he already has a BL. Was having his 3” reduced to a 1.25”.

 

[jjvw]

33s need more room than a 1.25" body lift and 1" spring lift. That can be a good setup for 31-32".

 

[TheBoogieman]

H&R 1" lift springs. You'll be limited to 31s.

 

[Richard1958]

H&R 1" lift springs. You'll be limited to 31s.

I like that. I’d heard that pairing up with Rancho shocks is a good combo. I have Skyjackers on this (noob move) and the ride is a bitch.

 

[Wtrask]

1 inch spacers and maybe a 1 inch body lift will fit 33s fine for your needs. I wish I kept it simple like that when I started with my Jeep.

 

[Sancho]

1 inch spacers and maybe a 1 inch body lift will fit 33s fine for your needs. I wish I kept it simple like that when I started with my Jeep.

Yes and no. It is driveable on the road.

But offroad you need a bit more room than 2 inches... otherwise you are gonna stuff the tires right into your fenders on the first bump or ditch. Not to mention possible rubbing at full turn.

Doing 33's properly requires a bit of investment. It is more than tires, springs, and bl pucks.

Ask me how I know. Lol

 

[Wtrask]

He mentioned he doesn’t go off-road. Worst case he will need wheel spacers or backspaced wheels. I’d keep it simple with some spring spacers a decent shock and some narrow 33s.

 

[Sancho]

He mentioned he doesn’t go off-road. Worst case he will need wheel spacers or backspaced wheels. I’d keep it simple with some spring spacers a decent shock and some narrow 33s.

I hear ya bout keeping it simple. That is why 31's and a 2 inch lift is an awesome idea.

Going 33's can open a can of worms.... antithesis of simple.

 

[Gollywomper]

He mentioned he doesn’t go off-road. Worst case he will need wheel spacers or backspaced wheels. I’d keep it simple with some spring spacers a decent shock and some narrow 33s.

Properly setting up to run 33s is the same regardless of how you plan to use it.

 

[jjvw]

He mentioned he doesn’t go off-road. Worst case he will need wheel spacers or backspaced wheels. I’d keep it simple with some spring spacers a decent shock and some narrow 33s.

The reasoning behind most of the tire size and lift combinations is to, at the very least, maintain the factory 4" of up travel.

With this combination, there will be a loss of factory 4" of up travel, which will diminish the ride quality even on the street.

Mine has a hard earned 6" of up on all four corners and I can use it all going to the grocery store, if I want to.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

He mentioned he doesn’t go off-road. Worst case he will need wheel spacers or backspaced wheels. I’d keep it simple with some spring spacers a decent shock and some narrow 33s.

The OP mentioned he does Class 6 roads occasionally.

Tennessee Class 6 Road:

 

[JMT]

The OP mentioned he does class 6 roads occasionally.

Tennessee Class 6 Road:

View attachment 299663

Yeah, 33’s for sure.

4” total lift is needed. That means an SYE and DC are in the picture, which means at least rear CA’s are needed. Also front and rear adjustable TB’s.

 

[jjvw]

The OP mentioned he does Class 6 roads occasionally.

Tennessee Class 6 Road:

View attachment 299663

Forced perspective. I'll bet your fish and camel spiders are huge, too!

 

[jjvw]

I hear ya bout keeping it simple. That is why 31's and a 2 inch lift is an awesome idea.

Going 33's can open a can of worms.... antithesis of simple.

The popular Zone 4.25 Combo kit is about the bare minimum to make 33s (mostly) work. And that is a 3" spring lift.

I did it with less a long time ago, but I was using 9" shocks with a shorter than normal compressed length and paid careful attention to the setup.

 

[Sancho]

The popular Zone 4.25 Combo kit is about the bare minimum to make 33s (mostly) work. And that is a 3" spring lift.

I did it with less a long time ago, but I was using 9" shocks with a shorter than normal compressed length and paid careful attention to the setup.

When i did 33's the standard way... 3' spring, 1.25 bl, plus mml, f/r adj tbs, and upgraded steering dampner.

I ended up needing a lot of extra items that were unplanned for.

Such as:
Saavy shifter linkage upgrade. (Required)
Modify shifter console/bezel. (Required)
Upgrade spare tire carrier (basically required)
Regear (required for me)
Sye and shaft. (Somewhat required. Vibes in long run are bad.)
Chromolly shafts (not required.. but might as well)
Rear locker (not required... but might as well)
Wheel spacers (somewhat required)

Now i know why everyone who gets to 33's... ends up going to 35's... "might as well".