2.5 Stroker

I'm a big fan of stroking a engine when it's going to be a good match. I'm not sure a stroker crank in a 2.5 is a good match.

Stroking a Chevy 350 to a 383 is as easy as dropping in a Chevy 400 crank. But you do have to machine the bolt for rod clearance.
The stroker kit used on the magnum V-8 is easier as no black machine work is needed. And it gains a lot more displacement out of the deal too. 360 to 408 or if you drop a stroker crank into a 318 to 390.

The main reason I was always told for doing a stroker was for the low end torque. Longer stroker = more torque or that is always what I was taught.
 
I'm a big fan of stroking a engine when it's going to be a good match. I'm not sure a stroker crank in a 2.5 is a good match.

Stroking a Chevy 350 to a 383 is as easy as dropping in a Chevy 400 crank. But you do have to machine the bolt for rod clearance.
The stroker kit used on the magnum V-8 is easier as no black machine work is needed. And it gains a lot more displacement out of the deal too. 360 to 408 or if you drop a stroker crank into a 318 to 390.

The main reason I was always told for doing a stroker was for the low end torque. Longer stroker = more torque or that is always what I was taught.
You failed to mention 345 to 392….

(I’m sure it was just an oversight on your part)

🙂
 
You failed to mention 345 to 392….

(I’m sure it was just an oversight on your part)

🙂

Sorry about that. Was listing the ones I knew off the top of my head. And as much as I LOVE a Hemi it's still a more expensive swap compared to the magnum. Of course if it's a newer TJ and was to be a choice between Hemi or LS.......
 
I would not assume it is making 4.0 power based solely on their 185 number. I would want to see the torque and power curves. My guess is that the 4.0 still makes way more torque down low.
That was my point with my original post. The difference between their 145 and 185 rating is likely the cam and amount of head work which would only show up with peak hp numbers and not tq below the curve. A turbo can help grunt you down the road at 3k rpm though, but would do nothing at 1.5k rpm.

And +1 for stroking when it's relatively easy with a significant bump in displacement i.e. the Jeep I6.
 
That was my point with my original post. The difference between their 145 and 185 rating is likely the cam and amount of head work which would only show up with peak hp numbers and not tq below the curve. A turbo can help grunt you down the road at 3k rpm though, but would do nothing at 1.5k rpm.

And +1 for stroking when it's relatively easy with a significant bump in displacement i.e. the Jeep I6.
I know nothing about turbos, other than I like what they do in my eco post work van and my personal f150. Lol.
I thought the issue with a 2.5 turbo was fuel management?
Low boost requires no intercooler?
I do not need any low end help with my doubler. If I could get a bit more HP for hwy and hill driving I would be happy. For a while anyway. Lol

Seems like anyway you slice it, for the price of making more HP with a 2.5 you could have another power plant under the hood.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, engine swap is the way to go IMHO. That's why I prefaced what I said with "If I was determined to keep my 4 banger." I don't want to force my build preference too hard on anybody (but it does happen).

But yes, fueling. That can be handled with bigger drop in injectors and tuning. Now finding somebody to tune a 2.5L and with what is a different issue. That's the part I said you'd have to research. Not a lot of aftermarket support out there for that motor.

Oh, and about intercooling with low boat, kinda sorta yes but it's not that simple. Try this one on for size: 10 psi from one turbo ≠ 10 psi from a different turbo.
 
Go back to the DIY 2.5 Turbo I linked earlier. I'd guess you could do it for around the same price or less than a engine swap. I got this guys "How to Turbo Book" about 16-17 years ago and just never did anything with it. From what I know about turbos (which can't be measured it's so little) it would solve your on road power problems or help to a point.

I would think with the newer tuning abelites available now compared to what they were 15 years ago you should be able to get a tune for a forced induction 2.5. I'd contact @Flyin' Ryan Performance and see what Ryan has to say. If he can tune it then I'd say try it. But it's also not my money.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gollywomper
I have done both a 2.5 stroker and numerous turbo 2.5s.

We put 18psi through a stock 2.5...they are quite tough.

18 PSI on stock bottom end? WOW that is pretty amazing.

For something a little more sedate like under 10PSI what does it take? Are there sensors like the MAP that are plug and play or is it all custom?
 
I'm guessing the 2 bar MOPAR MAP sensor is what is commonly used and rescaled. From an SRT I think?

And tuned correctly, 18 psi on a 300hp capable turbo seems easily doable on most stock bottom ends.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
505 has a 2.5 Stroker engine. They claim 185HP. What issues does a Stroker cause? Do they play nice with the TJ sensors? Will they run with the stock fuel system?

Interested. Adding this to the Stock SE thread ...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
I have a 4.6 stoker the power output is more but nothing that is going to take out any drivetrain that a stock engine would and the specs on mine are at the crank not the rear wheels where you feel it without any smog stuff or things stealing power, I’d guess the 4 bangers no different so I’d expect very mild gains and some regret.