3 year 10k mile Super35 usage review

Westtown Willy

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I wanted to add my first-hand S35 observations for those that are considering one & might stumble onto this thread in the future. There’s no shortage of opinions, educated guesses and flat out speculation about the S35 upgrade that people have to wade through to find the limited amount of first-hand accounts & I remember it well having read it all (now over three years ago) along with most of what’s been written since, & I for one would’ve loved more usage reviews when considering this upgrade but they’re in pretty short supply - so here is what I’ve done, where I’ve done it, & what the results were - the conclusion I’m drawing here is that it will do what I have done with ease.

I bought my 2004 X in late 2016 with the stock Dana 35/Dana 30, 3.07 gearing and 33s; I bought it solely for what it looked like rather than what it could/couldn’t do on or off road.

In the spring of 2017 when I realized I’d be going off road as often as I could I had it re-geared to 4.56 & added the Super35 and Super30 shafts with air lockers. In the 3 years that followed I put 10,000 miles on including over 40 full wheeling excursions ranging from 6 to 8 hours off road (8 when I started, now I’m barely good for 6, this shit beats me up 🧐), each of those days also includes a round-trip of 150-200 highway miles depending on where I’m going.

Trail selections I’ve run are typical Appalachian mountain terrain ranging from dirt roads to mud trails to deep mud trails to water crossings to off camber twisty trails to hill climbs to rocky trails to very rocky trails to trails I had to be dragged through with assistance because lockers weren’t enough to maintain momentum.

I’m generally pretty conservative which I define as: I don’t drive fast, I don’t get things bouncing though there have been exceptions by accident, I crawl by default, if I ever mash a pedal it’s always the clutch to kill torque & stop to rethink what I’m doing, only then do I begin again. If I fail to navigate an obstacle while locked after several attempts I will generally pull the winch line rather than push my axle’s luck.

By far my favorite thing to do is climb hills, the steeper the better, and it can be plain dirt, gravel, coal, a monster boulder, or a tree stump rock infested heavily rutted cluster fuck, when I see an incline my instinct is to crest it. This is no doubt the most stress my S35 sees, all the weight is on it & that’s most often where the axle is also locked so it’s really seeing the worst of circumstances from a stress standpoint that I throw at it. I generally prefer to try most things open at least once or more before resorting to the locker, just more fun that way but I know the areas where I go off road well enough at this point that I know where to lock first; often when I’m doing these climbs the locker ends up on at one point or another.

I’m not a big rock garden guy, I shy away from them, not because of any limitations of my rig but because I don’t find any joy in it. I’ve done my fair share of them particularly in my first two years when I wanted to try everything & I was still experimenting. I banged everything up pretty good underneath doing it, particularly my diff housings, control arm & rear shock mounts, tie rod & gas tank skid/trailer hitch. If I never hit any of those things again I wouldn’t be pissed. I’ve also done a fair amount of other damage, both front fenders, passenger side door/door jamb, two sets of flares & so forth, all of that was done while doing/attempting to do something sketchy & usually in a really awkward positions.

My TJ is as light as it can be, it’s weighed down by bigger tires, some skids underneath and a winch up front but other than that I think it’s about as lean as I can get away with & still be competent (I carry a tool box @80lbs full in lieu of a back seat and a spare on the stock carrier with a stock rear bumper). I also run a soft top year round & no other superfluous bling is affixed in or on my rig. I’m light at 140lbs & generally riding solo. All my trips are day trips so there’s no camping equipment or anything else, just me, the tools & a bag with a couple candy bars & water bottles is about it. It’s also doorless around 7 months of the year.

That’s it, that’s the story of what my Super/35 & Super/30 axles have endured without mechanical failure, breakage or damage of any kind; I removed the rear cover yesterday and everything looks brand new. The only issue I had was maybe a few months after install my rear pinion seal leaked & the shop that installed the gears put a new one in gratis. Other than that they’ve run quiet and smooth.

Those are my observations, make of them what you will.

One editorial comment, given my experience with these axles I do believe they are overbuilt for my purposes, I don’t think I’ve approached the limit of abuse they can handle. It’s a moot point however because I believe they’re still necessary given that the only step down would’ve been to leave them stock & open which simply wouldn’t have served my purposes – I have unequivocally needed my lockers too many times to have been able to go where I’ve gone & had the fun I’ve had without them, and while I can’t say for sure I probably would’ve broken at least one stock shaft by now doing some of the things I’ve done, particularly in my first year when I was much less experienced behind the wheel.

Gears look as good as the day they were installed:

IMG_5214.webp
 
I wanted to add my first-hand S35 observations for those that are considering one & might stumble onto this thread in the future. There’s no shortage of opinions, educated guesses and flat out speculation about the S35 upgrade that people have to wade through to find the limited amount of first-hand accounts & I remember it well having read it all (now over three years ago) along with most of what’s been written since, & I for one would’ve loved more usage reviews when considering this upgrade but they’re in pretty short supply - so here is what I’ve done, where I’ve done it, & what the results were - the conclusion I’m drawing here is that it will do what I have done with ease.

I bought my 2004 X in late 2016 with the stock Dana 35/Dana 30, 3.07 gearing and 33s; I bought it solely for what it looked like rather than what it could/couldn’t do on or off road.

In the spring of 2017 when I realized I’d be going off road as often as I could I had it re-geared to 4.56 & added the Super35 and Super30 shafts with air lockers. In the 3 years that followed I put 10,000 miles on including over 40 full wheeling excursions ranging from 6 to 8 hours off road (8 when I started, now I’m barely good for 6, this shit beats me up 🧐), each of those days also includes a round-trip of 150-200 highway miles depending on where I’m going.

Trail selections I’ve run are typical Appalachian mountain terrain ranging from dirt roads to mud trails to deep mud trails to water crossings to off camber twisty trails to hill climbs to rocky trails to very rocky trails to trails I had to be dragged through with assistance because lockers weren’t enough to maintain momentum.

I’m generally pretty conservative which I define as: I don’t drive fast, I don’t get things bouncing though there have been exceptions by accident, I crawl by default, if I ever mash a pedal it’s always the clutch to kill torque & stop to rethink what I’m doing, only then do I begin again. If I fail to navigate an obstacle while locked after several attempts I will generally pull the winch line rather than push my axle’s luck.

By far my favorite thing to do is climb hills, the steeper the better, and it can be plain dirt, gravel, coal, a monster boulder, or a tree stump rock infested heavily rutted cluster fuck, when I see an incline my instinct is to crest it. This is no doubt the most stress my S35 sees, all the weight is on it & that’s most often where the axle is also locked so it’s really seeing the worst of circumstances from a stress standpoint that I throw at it. I generally prefer to try most things open at least once or more before resorting to the locker, just more fun that way but I know the areas where I go off road well enough at this point that I know where to lock first; often when I’m doing these climbs the locker ends up on at one point or another.

I’m not a big rock garden guy, I shy away from them, not because of any limitations of my rig but because I don’t find any joy in it. I’ve done my fair share of them particularly in my first two years when I wanted to try everything & I was still experimenting. I banged everything up pretty good underneath doing it, particularly my diff housings, control arm & rear shock mounts, tie rod & gas tank skid/trailer hitch. If I never hit any of those things again I wouldn’t be pissed. I’ve also done a fair amount of other damage, both front fenders, passenger side door/door jamb, two sets of flares & so forth, all of that was done while doing/attempting to do something sketchy & usually in a really awkward positions.

My TJ is as light as it can be, it’s weighed down by bigger tires, some skids underneath and a winch up front but other than that I think it’s about as lean as I can get away with & still be competent (I carry a tool box @80lbs full in lieu of a back seat and a spare on the stock carrier with a stock rear bumper). I also run a soft top year round & no other superfluous bling is affixed in or on my rig. I’m light at 140lbs & generally riding solo. All my trips are day trips so there’s no camping equipment or anything else, just me, the tools & a bag with a couple candy bars & water bottles is about it. It’s also doorless around 7 months of the year.

That’s it, that’s the story of what my Super/35 & Super/30 axles have endured without mechanical failure, breakage or damage of any kind; I removed the rear cover yesterday and everything looks brand new. The only issue I had was maybe a few months after install my rear pinion seal leaked & the shop that installed the gears put a new one in gratis. Other than that they’ve run quiet and smooth.

Those are my observations, make of them what you will.

One editorial comment, given my experience with these axles I do believe they are overbuilt for my purposes, I don’t think I’ve approached the limit of abuse they can handle. It’s a moot point however because I believe they’re still necessary given that the only step down would’ve been to leave them stock & open which simply wouldn’t have served my purposes – I have unequivocally needed my lockers too many times to have been able to go where I’ve gone & had the fun I’ve had without them, and while I can’t say for sure I probably would’ve broken at least one stock shaft by now doing some of the things I’ve done, particularly in my first year when I was much less experienced behind the wheel.

Gears look as good as the day they were installed:

View attachment 172737
Thanks for posting this up, iv been thinking of installing a S35 in mine and reading the few good reviews like yours assure me it will be a good decision.
 
I'll throw some words of support in here for the S35. I lived in Utah when I built the original BlackSheep. I put a S35 with a Detroit locker in the rear and upgraded axles with the Detroit in the front, both rolling 4.10 gearing. I started on 33" tires. I was in Moab running trails about a dozen times per year between 2002 and 2005, along with other trips around the Wasatch mountains and into the valley. It was not a daily driver and I did trailer it after the first year.
I drive similarly to what @Westtown Willy describes, quite conservative. Eventually, I moved up to 35" Krawlers after adding some suspension upgrades. If you know Moab, you know that there is a lot of traction out there just moving around between obstacles. I drove most trails in Moab that were typically run by full bodied rigs - at the time, Pritchett Canyon was probably the most difficult I'd run.

I did break one axle shaft on the S35. I was lucky that it was during Easter Jeep Safari and I was able to find a replacement at the Vendor Expo. My brother and I repaired it on the trail.

If I had a TJ with a Dana 35 and found myself in that situation where I wanted to add lockers, I'd do the S35 again. Especially considering the cost vs doing a complete axle upgrade.
 
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I'll throw some words of support in here for the S35. I lived in Utah when I built the original BlackSheep. I put a S35 with a Detroit locker in the rear and upgraded axles with the Detroit in the front, both rolling 4.10 gearing. I started on 33" tires. I was in Moab running trails about a dozen times per year between 2002 and 2005, along with other trips around the Wasatch mountains and into the valley. It was not a daily driver and I did trailer it after the first year.
I drive similarly to what @Westtown Willy describes, quite conservative. Eventually, I moved up to 35" Krawlers after adding some suspension upgrades. If you know Moab, you know that there is a lot of traction out there just moving around between obstacles. I drove most trails in Moab that were typically run by full bodied rigs - at the time, Pritchett Canyon was probably the most difficult I'd run.

I did break one axle shaft on the S35. I was lucky that it was during Easter Jeep Safari and I was able to find a replacement at the Vendor Expo. My brother and I repaired it on the trail.

If I had a TJ with a Dana 35 and found myself in that situation where I wanted to add lockers, I'd do the S35 again. Especially considering the cost vs doing a complete axle upgrade.
You still running the detroit locker? I'm still debating if I should go with the detroit locker or air locker. Btw thanks for replying!
 
You still running the detroit locker? I'm still debating if I should go with the detroit locker or air locker. Btw thanks for replying!

I sold the original in 2015 and built my '04 Rubicon in 2018. I would only do another detroit if I was not daily driving. Selectable locker is definitely the way to go if you drive on the road, even if only occasionally.

There does come a point when you have to consider whether upgrading the Dana 35 is cost effective vs finding and installing a replacement. I think it will generally be less costly to upgrade the Dana 35. Take that into consideration when making your decision. A detroit S35 kit probably isn't horribly expensive. You end up spending more money to get an air locker fully functional - addition of the onboard air for example. I always liked the concept of the Ox locker, although I've never wheeled with anyone who had one and I haven't really read up on the reviews (and I don't know if that is available in an S35 kit).

I'm sure someone will chime in about buying a used or junkyard axle, fitting it to your rig and upgrading that - If you can do all that fabrication yourself (or maybe you have a good buddy) this is probably a similar or equal cost to upgrading the Dana 35. These are the cost balance things that need to be considered.

In the end, when I built the Original BlackSheep, cost and timing was a factor, so I decided on the Detroit S35 kit. It performed well for me even though I did eventually break an axle shaft. I actually broke quite a few things on that rig so breaking a rear axle didn't come as a complete surprise.
 
This is good news to hear! For years I've dismissed, due to a lack of first hand knowledge, the use of a Dana 35 for serious off-roading. The fact that it's C a clip design, carried forward in the 35 kit, used to scare me off. However, the more I read about the Super 35, the more I'm starting to believe in it. The increased axle strength, along with an increase in the number of splines, i.e. a jump from 27 to 30, has convinced me that I'd be willing to run a 35 rear and not worry about the C clip.

Overall, pairing a built Dana 30 with a built Dana 35 can provide a strong and reliable combination, even for tough trails. What I like best about the combination is weight reduction. Although I don't believe there's any significant weight savings between a Dana 35 and a Dana 44, they both seem to be in the 150 - 170 lb range, there's a huge difference between a Front Dana 30 and 44. If the numbers I'm seeing are correct, it's somewhere on the order of 140 lbs. Having picked a few of each up, this definitely makes sense.

All that said, two things I'd be curious about, assuming a Dana 30 and Super 35 combination, is this:

1. Looking at the design of the 35 housing, based on ring gear size, it appears as if there would be more ground clearance on it vs a 44. I don't know if this is true or not, so I'd be curious if anyone has numbers to validate it?
2. If running a 30 front, is the 20(ish)% increase in strentgh of a HP30 worth it? I honestly have only ever seen a couple failures on LP30s, which were the result of neglect or stupidity.
 
Mrblaine has covered this countless times since the S35 first came out, long, long ago.:sleep: The C-clip eliminator option too.
 
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I did break one axle shaft on the S35. I was lucky that it was during Easter Jeep Safari and I was able to find a replacement at the Vendor Expo. My brother and I repaired it on the trail.

that entire write up is interesting, thanks for adding that. It sounds like you've pushed yours even further. Larger tires and locker type are big variables. And the differences in environment are stark, with more traction you're certainly in a situation where you can stress the shafts & all components more, particularly if you get it bouncing. Where I go it's nearly always a slippery slop-fest, but that can be troublesome too in the sense that one minute your tires as sliding & then they catch a dry spot. That's one big reason I'm a big proponent of selectable lockers & running mainly open, I'd rather the wheel break loose & lose momentum & start over than throw a lot of shocks through the drive train.

Regarding the broken shaft, that's also interesting, I haven't heard many of those but it's actually encouraging with respect to the S35/Dana 44 analysis given that the S35 shaft is the same diameter & spline size & perhaps a tiny bit stronger given the different materials, so I'd imagine you'd have broken the Dana 44 shaft under identical circumstances. One of the go-to reasons people cite for shying away from an S35 is that it kicks the can down the line to the ring/pinion as the weak link which, while not true, seems to be the prevailing wisdom. Your tale tends to support that's a fallacy.

Still, if I were doing it all over I'd go through the same steps I went the first time. I'd look to see the availability of a TJ 44 then factor in the costs to make it operational to my specifications then compare that to the known cost of the S35, the lower price would be the way I'd go. There is a ton of room for play depending on what you find, if you're lucky you find one in good shape already geared to your liking with a functional locker making it a matter of paying for it & swapping it out if the price is right. It's when you find that one that needs some love to get it where you want it that the cost can nickle & dime up & over the S35
 
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Mrblaine has covered this countless times since the S35 first came out, long, long ago.:sleep: The C-clip eliminator option too.

I have no issues with the C clip or the LP30, per my response. Although I didn't say it, the only reason I'd consider a HP30 would be to raise the pinion. In my case, I'd likely want to do that, given I've busted one yoke ear and sheared off a couple of the strap bolts. The real question I couldn't find a clear answer on is whether there's any ground clearance advantages between the 35 or 44? My guess would be that if there was, for either, it would be nominal.
 
I have no issues with the C clip or the LP30, per my response. Although I didn't say it, the only reason I'd consider a HP30 would be to raise the pinion. In my case, I'd likely want to do that, given I've busted one yoke ear and sheared off a couple of the strap bolts. The real question I couldn't find a clear answer on is whether there's any ground clearance advantages between the 35 or 44? My guess would be that if there was, for either, it would be nominal.

I've read that the difference is very minor from 35 to 44, very slightly better clearance with the 35. The real difference seems to be when comparing it to the 8.8, if memory serves that hangs a good bit lower, maybe around an inch?
 
I too have nothing but good things to report on the Super35. I'm on my second full season (8,000 miles?) with it and it's performed flawlessly. My style of wheeling sounds very similar to the OP; conservative, analyzing the right line but not backing down from challenging terrain. I made the jump to front & rear E-Lockers, 4.88 gears and 35" tires at the same time. I will say that making those changes has yielded a significant capability increase to my rig (as one would expect). The added capability has lead me to more challenging trails / obstacles. The tougher terrain has upped my skill set and confidence. It's been an interesting journey and a fun couple of years!

Thanks for starting this thread @Westtown Willy. I hope is serves the purpose you mentioned for others in the future doing their own S35 homework. If I were to build another Jeep for 35" tires I wouldn't hesitate to follow the exact same path: Super35 kit by Revolution Gear / Eaton.:)
 
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Thanks for the post. I too am running a S35. I picked up the entire axle with a Detroit locker for $400 from someone who experienced a Detroit failure that was covered under warranty but for some reason was convinced he needed an 8.8. I havent wheeled it yet as I still need to swap front axles. Ill hopefully have it together and on the rocks the middle of next month.