So, managed to fix my TQ Lock Out issue by replacing the TQ Solenoid. To summarize, Jeep engine was professionally rebuilt with only 1500 miles or so. 32RH Trans started making a knocking noise. Had the transmission professionally rebuilt. Before I had them rebuild it, I did some homework and read about cracked flex plates making noise. Anyway, gave the transmission rebuilder my NEW Flex Plate and asked them to install it while they had transmission out for a full rebuild.
Moved to TX a week after picking it up from transmission shop.
Drove it twice in TX. Once it started making a clacking/knocking sound from bell housing and then it went away. Started throwing CEL P7040.
Lost track of the sound once the P7040 CEL started coming on and I focused on that. Jeep basically sat for last year since moving from TX as I was focused on career and new house. Finally got around to P7040 issue and managed to fix with replacement TQ Solenoid.
Added water pump overdrive pulley as well from Texas Jeep Products and it dropped the temps greatly.
Found out due to my job, I am having to move back to AZ and packing up house hold goods next week. The house has been on the market after only living in it for 14 months..... Yea, taking a blood bath on the house with todays market.
Anyway, was glad that the engine temps dropped since I would be back wheeling in AZ again with triple digit summer temps. Anyway, fixed the P7040 issue last week and was so happy with my jeep...... until this evening after only driving it for the fourth time since P7040 fix.
Now the knocking/clacking sound from bell housing is back! No noise for first 4 drives and then on way home tonight, while waiting at drive through the clacking/knocking noise came back. Noticed it was rhythmic and sped up and down with MPH. Stopped and it was still knocking. Went through all gears including neutral and still knocking even in idle.
Decided "screw it" and started driving home at speeds under 40MPH.
Halfway home the knocking disappeared. WT%^$!!@!!!
My thinking is that the new flex plate was never put in at the transmission shop when they rebuilt the transmission. After all they missed a bad TQ Solenoid (Or coincidently it went bad right after transmission rebuild?) and since it was attached to crank, they were probably more focused on transmission?
Pulling the inspection plate tomorrow and checking tightness of bolts between flex and TQ.
Staying with friends in AZ until my TX home sells so probably no chance to work on it over the next several months back in AZ but is it possible to replace the Flex plate without completely pulling transmission out?
My understanding is that TQ slots into Transmission and Flex is attached to Crank.
When transmission is mated to engine, you bolt the TQ to the Flex plate.
If that is in fact the case, to remove the Flex Plate you would have to access the 6 bolts attaching it to crank?
Can that be accessible with the transmission pulled back 5 or 6 inches?
Just trying to wrap my head around the situation so I know what needs to be done to replace Flex Plate.
Moved to TX a week after picking it up from transmission shop.
Drove it twice in TX. Once it started making a clacking/knocking sound from bell housing and then it went away. Started throwing CEL P7040.
Lost track of the sound once the P7040 CEL started coming on and I focused on that. Jeep basically sat for last year since moving from TX as I was focused on career and new house. Finally got around to P7040 issue and managed to fix with replacement TQ Solenoid.
Added water pump overdrive pulley as well from Texas Jeep Products and it dropped the temps greatly.
Found out due to my job, I am having to move back to AZ and packing up house hold goods next week. The house has been on the market after only living in it for 14 months..... Yea, taking a blood bath on the house with todays market.
Anyway, was glad that the engine temps dropped since I would be back wheeling in AZ again with triple digit summer temps. Anyway, fixed the P7040 issue last week and was so happy with my jeep...... until this evening after only driving it for the fourth time since P7040 fix.
Now the knocking/clacking sound from bell housing is back! No noise for first 4 drives and then on way home tonight, while waiting at drive through the clacking/knocking noise came back. Noticed it was rhythmic and sped up and down with MPH. Stopped and it was still knocking. Went through all gears including neutral and still knocking even in idle.
Decided "screw it" and started driving home at speeds under 40MPH.
Halfway home the knocking disappeared. WT%^$!!@!!!
My thinking is that the new flex plate was never put in at the transmission shop when they rebuilt the transmission. After all they missed a bad TQ Solenoid (Or coincidently it went bad right after transmission rebuild?) and since it was attached to crank, they were probably more focused on transmission?
Pulling the inspection plate tomorrow and checking tightness of bolts between flex and TQ.
Staying with friends in AZ until my TX home sells so probably no chance to work on it over the next several months back in AZ but is it possible to replace the Flex plate without completely pulling transmission out?
My understanding is that TQ slots into Transmission and Flex is attached to Crank.
When transmission is mated to engine, you bolt the TQ to the Flex plate.
If that is in fact the case, to remove the Flex Plate you would have to access the 6 bolts attaching it to crank?
Can that be accessible with the transmission pulled back 5 or 6 inches?
Just trying to wrap my head around the situation so I know what needs to be done to replace Flex Plate.
