I'll buy you a plane ticket. We can rebuild the one I've got and you can make another video on rebuilding a 4R100. Got plenty of cameras, microphones and lighting.
And I think Oregon Transmission isn't too far away... maybe we can get a tour...
-Mac
32RH issues
- Thread starter mpbannon
- Start date
I'll buy you a plane ticket. We can rebuild the one I've got and you can make another video on rebuilding a 4R100. Got plenty of cameras, microphones and lighting.
And I think Oregon Transmission isn't too far away... maybe we can get a tour...
-Mac
even when i was looking initially, 32rh transmissions just don't seem to show up too often.
Theres a 999 (what they put in YJ's) with a 231 for 800 on marketplace right now. I'm pretty sure it would directly bolt up, and/or you just put the 32RH innards in the case and you'd be golden. I don't know if spline counts are the same, but I do know that the shifter & TV linkages are slightly different. Probably not enough to matter, but future readers may take note. Also, not all 999;s are lockups, but that's addressable if you have the right torque converter, input shaft, pump, valve body, and are willing to drill a hole in the case to hold the connector.
I now know better and hoard parts. I wish was when I was about younger man, but time teaches many things.
Its been a busy week with my kids halloween parades and trick or treating, I did make some progress. All the rubber seals are replaced, next step is to match the teflon sealing rings. I decided to do new steels, since the rear clutch was pretty trashed
Ran in to a slight hiccup... I left all the valves and springs un-bagged since that was going to be the first thing I cleaned and rebuilt, but it got knocked over and mixed up. Fortunately I *think* I have everything organized and in the right location.
View attachment 652700
I now know better and hoard parts. I wish was when I was about younger man, but time teaches many things.
Its been a busy week with my kids halloween parades and trick or treating, but I did make some progress. All the rubber seals are replaced, next step is to match the teflon sealing rings. I decided to do new steels, since the rear clutch was pretty trashed
Ran in to a slight hiccup... I left all the valves and springs un-bagged since that was going to be the first thing I cleaned and rebuilt, but some got knocked over and mixed up. Fortunately I think I have everything organized and in the right location. (Kick down valve and detent was installed reverse of what is pictured)
New steels is always a good call, it’s a cheap insurance.
My first thing that I was going to point out was that TV but you’ve got it handled. Did it fit down in the bore nice and smooth with 0 resistance and 0 lubricant of any kind?
I don’t see your line reducing plug that goes into the big metal sleeve on the right of your picture. Maybe my eyes deceive me. (Last picture I uploaded you can see the plug I’m addressing within it’s respective sleeve)
My first thing that I was going to point out was that TV but you’ve got it handled. Did it fit down in the bore nice and smooth with 0 resistance and 0 lubricant of any kind?
I don’t see your line reducing plug that goes into the big metal sleeve on the right of your picture. Maybe my eyes deceive me. (Last picture I uploaded you can see the plug I’m addressing within it’s respective sleeve)
Sorry, have been busy with work and appointments. The plug is in there, you just can't see it too well in the picture. Trans is buttoned up(after a few hiccups with an extrasnap ring), less the valve body, but I got the new shift solenoid today so it will be going in soon.
Out of cheapness I found a "add a drain plug" for 7 bucks from dorman I might try in lieu of the deep pan. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QSZDV3X?tag=wranglerorg-20 while it wont get it all out, itll definitely prevent the mess of ATF spilling all over.
Next step is a new torque converter and the old girl is going back in.
Out of cheapness I found a "add a drain plug" for 7 bucks from dorman I might try in lieu of the deep pan. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QSZDV3X?tag=wranglerorg-20 while it wont get it all out, itll definitely prevent the mess of ATF spilling all over.
Next step is a new torque converter and the old girl is going back in.
I had the extra snap ring too…. Turns out for me it was the L/R Drum to the output shaft. Helps a lot to use ziplocks with labels on em!
Any reason to replacing the solenoid? Unless Mopar or having lockup issues I wouldn’t worry about replacing it. Since it’s buttoned up and it’s so easy to reach again I wouldn’t sweat it.
No worry about the drain plug. It’s going to keep it to where there’s less mess. That’s why I bought mine. I understand the not spending all the extra money. Another reason I bought it was because the extra qt which increases cooling capacity because my issue was overheating. You won’t drain every drop of ATF with a plug or even dropping the pan so don’t fret. Keeping the factory pan on the 2.5l keeps you from dropping the skid plate to take the pan on and off but the 4.0l (to my knowledge) needs to drop the skid anyways
Great work, it took me 2-3x as long. I was down for 3 weeks but had to replace a bit more than usual.
Don’t forget to flush the cooler. Just as you would replace the converter because it contributes to the issue, so does the dirty cooler.
Any reason to replacing the solenoid? Unless Mopar or having lockup issues I wouldn’t worry about replacing it. Since it’s buttoned up and it’s so easy to reach again I wouldn’t sweat it.
No worry about the drain plug. It’s going to keep it to where there’s less mess. That’s why I bought mine. I understand the not spending all the extra money. Another reason I bought it was because the extra qt which increases cooling capacity because my issue was overheating. You won’t drain every drop of ATF with a plug or even dropping the pan so don’t fret. Keeping the factory pan on the 2.5l keeps you from dropping the skid plate to take the pan on and off but the 4.0l (to my knowledge) needs to drop the skid anyways
Great work, it took me 2-3x as long. I was down for 3 weeks but had to replace a bit more than usual.
Don’t forget to flush the cooler. Just as you would replace the converter because it contributes to the issue, so does the dirty cooler.
Mine was from the front servo piston. It was missed going back into the ziplock after cleaning. Normally, im pretty good at remembering where everything goes when taken apart, but I knew there would be downtime between. As for the solenoid, the pan is installed just to keep junk out, the valve body is sitting on the work bench waiting for the new solenoid. I was having a lockup code before it went bad so I expected replacing it.
Shout out to @hear for his videos and all the help on here made this rebuild super simple despite the hiccups!
Shout out to @hear for his videos and all the help on here made this rebuild super simple despite the hiccups!
Nice work! You did the whole thing w/o even needing to post any drama here, that might be a first. The real question is how many times did you have to pull out stuff you already installed because you realized you did something wrong?
What you see in my videos for the most part is me executing the maneuvers for the 3rd or 4th time. And of course the complete teardown video is actually me re-tearing it down because I dropped the solenoid plug clip which was literally the final step before bolting on the pan.
What you see in my videos for the most part is me executing the maneuvers for the 3rd or 4th time. And of course the complete teardown video is actually me re-tearing it down because I dropped the solenoid plug clip which was literally the final step before bolting on the pan.
I had to take the geartrain out 5 times, the extension housing off 3 times, and the rear band took probably about 3 hours of Brain power…. Let’s just say I forgot a few things, remembered, took it back apart and put it together then questioned myself if I put it back together correctly…
The rear band was just pure chaos for me though but that’s because the 30rh uses the same band, link, and strut system as the 727’s and not the simple 32RH setup
The rear band was just pure chaos for me though but that’s because the 30rh uses the same band, link, and strut system as the 727’s and not the simple 32RH setup
Let us know,I’d like to see how the duel o ring trans-dapt works.the one that says 904 only is 100.00 the other one is half of that?
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I had a lot of small block mopars growing up with the 904,never had one mess up?you might have a problem finding one that is messed up to rebuild.
Not sure what you're point is, Mac has one in his shop and I have 2 in my garage all awaiting rebuilds. The amount of views and comments on my videos and DM's I get here says otherwise.
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Oh I definitely pulled everything out and put it back quiet a few times lol. A couple as a test run after taking it apart and a few for the "hmmm something isn't right".
The dip stick hasn't been ordered yet, might attempt to repair it still. I did order the deep pan though, clearance issues arose with the "add a drain" and I definitely want the drain plug.
The dip stick hasn't been ordered yet, might attempt to repair it still. I did order the deep pan though, clearance issues arose with the "add a drain" and I definitely want the drain plug.
I’ve got the pan on. Love it. Saves such a headache with fluid everywhere!
I was able to (hopefully permanently) repair my dip stick tube. I shoved an aluminum rod through the short piece, and into the long piece, tacked welded as much as I could and threw a piece of shrink tube on it. The shrink tube was for any pinholes but it fits with the grommet in the transmission, so ill be over here praying it doesn't leak!
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