32s vs 33s: Let’s see em!

285/70R17's (33") with 2 1/2 inch Rough Country lift.

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Appreciate that.

A 1” body lift would be perfect for 33’s. My understanding from mrblaine about the reason a 1.25” body lift was developed was to provide slightly more clearance for the transfer case when doing a TT.

Currie makes the 1” aluminum equivalent.

There are no drawbacks to a small body lift. It makes room for larger tires, gives the opportunity to raise the gas tank skid 1”, gives room above the rear bumper for a larger spare, etc...

Mrblaine said once there was no better bang for your buck.


One more body lift question, is a motor mount lift required with a 1” body lift?

Reading on the Currie website about their 1” body lift, it says that a motor mount lift is strongly recommended.

I don’t want to have any issues with manual transmission shifting, transfer case linkage, or any other small potential issues.

I just had all new Currie Adjustable control arms and a SYE/DC driveshaft installed, and we were able to push the rear axle back I believe 1” or 1.5” with no contact of parts. I’m assuming that a motor mount lift would bring on the need to reset the pinion angles front and rear?
 
One more body lift question, is a motor mount lift required with a 1” body lift?

Reading on the Currie website about their 1” body lift, it says that a motor mount lift is strongly recommended.

I don’t want to have any issues with manual transmission shifting, transfer case linkage, or any other small potential issues.

I just had all new Currie Adjustable control arms and a SYE/DC driveshaft installed, and we were able to push the rear axle back I believe 1” or 1.5” with no contact of parts. I’m assuming that a motor mount lift would bring on the need to reset the pinion angles front and rear?
A MML is not required with a BL. You just have to move the fan shroud down 1”.

However, with a BL (or BL and MML), your TCase linkage will be twisted and you’ll either need to adjust it or get a savvy adjustable TCase cable shifter. Most just get the Savvy since the stock linkage is a piece of garbage.
 
A MML is not required with a BL. You just have to move the fan shroud down 1”.


Good to know. I’ll research how hard of a project that is to do.

I have a little while to decide, but the decision will be leave it as is (height wise) and go 32’s, or do the 1’ body lift and go with 33’s.

Decisions, decisions!!
 
Good to know. I’ll research how hard of a project that is to do.

I have a little while to decide, but the decision will be leave it as is (height wise) and go 32’s, or do the 1’ body lift and go with 33’s.

Decisions, decisions!!
I added a caveat in the prior post. Please don’t miss it!
 
I added a caveat in the prior post. Please don’t miss it!


Just read it. Thanks for that! I can live with installing the Savvy linkage. I had read about it a while back and thought it might be a good idea one day. Shifting into 4wd now doesn’t inspire a lot of confidence with the factory linkage. Sometimes it feels like I’m going to bend something in the linkage.

The bigger one I was worried about was the transmission linkage. I didn’t want any issues shifting gears, or have to trim the tub or center console.
 
The bigger one I was worried about was the transmission linkage. I didn’t want any issues shifting gears, or have to trim the tub or center console.
I have the 6-speed too. I did the MML first and later a BL. After the MML It caused some issues shifting related to the inner boot because the engine and tranny we’re tilting the shifter back. It was very close to hitting the console. When I did the BL it was worse because it raised the tub (and hence console), exacerbating the problem. But a BL alone won’t do this because it simply lifts the tub straight up. I would be very confident you would not have any transmission linkage issues with a BL only.
 
Zone 4.25 combo lift kit. Comes with body and mml. As well as a 3 inch suspension lift. Also has a bracket used to fix the alignment of the transfer case linkage. Put that in the trash and installed a savvy shift cable kit. Also installed a jks front track bar.At that point it was a pretty great set up for 33 12.5 15 tires.It still uses the factory control arms which where the limiting factors on travel but I still managed a healthy 21 inches of articulation. I then soon after decided to jazz up the lift a little more. Installed Currie control arms which drastically increased my droop. Had to install longer brake lines. Here is pics of the first set up as well as after the control arm upgrade. I picked up 7 inches of articulation putting me at 28 inches

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BFG 32 11.50's with a 2 inch BB lift, i think 33s look great, but I would have had to lif more and also regear as I'm only 3.07s, but I only turn about 200 miles a month and just didn't want to spend the dosh.

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buying tires for recently lifted 2.5 in 04 TJ with 3.73’s mostly street driven. Trying to decide. Relying on your pics, and words of experience. Thank you in advance

This was the Jeep I wanted to emulate. Sorry Chris, but I still just love your old Jeep. SICK!!!

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Mine isn't as cool as it is silver and doesn't have a hard top, nor a cool front bumper. Anyway, here is mine ALSO with 33's and a 2.5" OME lift with HD springs. I have since added the same nurf bars on the sides which actually look really nice and it is very close to as cool as Chris's former ride.
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