Okay so I just came across an 8.8 out of a tj with an artec truss kit for $400. I was between building an 8.8 or super 35. I need to regear either way but I just wanted to know what you guys would do? I feel like the 8.8 will be easy and cheaper at this point because I will just need to gear and lock and its a 31 spline. I dont have anything against the super 35 and ive read all the write ups (just to be clear, so this wont turn into an argument thread). There is a reputable shop near me that will gear for $500 per axle and it saves me the hassle of building the super 35. Should I pull the trigger on the 8.8? If so are there any other modifications that will need to be done? Help
8.8 Swap Questions
- Thread starter RYAN17
- Start date
Go for it. Sounds like it may be a bit cheaper. Its really your choice.
The only question I ask is what are you trying to resolve? Why the need for a axle upgrade/swap?
The only question I ask is what are you trying to resolve? Why the need for a axle upgrade/swap?
Well im on 33x12.50s now. With 3.07 stock gears. Life is tough. I am going to regear to 5.13s as soon as i can save enough $ because i want to do the front and rear at once. But i figure while i am in there i should lock them because i probably wont be opening them back up for a while. I know that the 8.8 will handle 35s better if i ever decide to make the switch in the future. Im open to all suggestions but im on a budget and it seems like I can get this done cheaper
It will likely turn into a back and fourth. The 8.8 has some drawbacks. It is cheaper, which most members here would go for.
Either way, it’s an upgrade. Blondes want to be brunettes and brunettes want to be blondes. Run the 8.8 on the cheap. If it give you trouble, sell it and run your (Free) Dana 35 that will hypothetically be sitting in your garage. If need be, super35 it. You have options.
Either way, it’s an upgrade. Blondes want to be brunettes and brunettes want to be blondes. Run the 8.8 on the cheap. If it give you trouble, sell it and run your (Free) Dana 35 that will hypothetically be sitting in your garage. If need be, super35 it. You have options.
Personally I'd rather have a Super35 with its chromoly 30 spline shafts than an 8.8 with its offset pinion and carbon steel 31 spline shafts. Not to mention you'll end up with less ground clearance with the 8.8.
Thanks for the input. Its a tough decision to make. I definitely have options im just trying to make a good decision because I definitely am on a budget. For some reason I like the 8.8 but most advise against it. Im not really in the range of building the super 35, locking, and regearing the front and rear at the moment. So if i decide to build my existing dana 35, should i just save my money so i can get the 30 spline shafts, throw in 5.13s, and lock it with arb or elocker? Is this a better decision?
8.8 has a pinion ~2" longer. Add the cost of a driveshaft to your budget. Does this 8.8 have the C-clip elimination already? Not a requirement, just curious. Either way going from a 3.07 to a 5.13 will be huge! Good luck.
Sunder
TJ Enthusiast
$400 sounds like a great deal on a 8.8 installed with an Artec Truss. The axle itself is often around $400, and the Artec Truss just under that.
You may also need an adapter to connect it to the drive shaft, and potentially different brake line adapters.
Most likely ends up being much cheaper than a Super Dana 35.
But do you have a slip-yoke eliminator? I think having that helps with the offset of the 8.8. I already had mine due to my lift, but you may want to factor that into your cost if you don't. Your profile says 4" suspension, so I'm hoping you have one. If not...I'd recommend it.
Do you have disc or drum brakes on your Dana 35? What does the 8.8 have?
I got the nice quick disc brake upgrade when I installed my 8.8.
The C-clip elimination isn't as "important" if you have disc brakes.
I like that the 8.8 offers a lot more selection on types of differential traction devices than the Super Dana 35. However, if the Super Dana 35 has the type of locker you want, then that's great.
Me, personally, I went with the Ford 8.8 over a Super Dana 35. And I had to pay $400 for the 8.8 axle itself, plus the Artec Truss. But part of my decision was factored into preferring an Eaton TruTrac over a locker due to winter driving and budget. True lockers perform better in most other scenarios, so you can't always make a decision based on what someone else did, as their reasons for doing so may be different.
I wanted to find a Dana 44 as my #1 choice, but it was insanely difficult to find in my area, unless I wanted to pay top price at ECGS.
You may also need an adapter to connect it to the drive shaft, and potentially different brake line adapters.
Most likely ends up being much cheaper than a Super Dana 35.
But do you have a slip-yoke eliminator? I think having that helps with the offset of the 8.8. I already had mine due to my lift, but you may want to factor that into your cost if you don't. Your profile says 4" suspension, so I'm hoping you have one. If not...I'd recommend it.
Do you have disc or drum brakes on your Dana 35? What does the 8.8 have?
I got the nice quick disc brake upgrade when I installed my 8.8.
The C-clip elimination isn't as "important" if you have disc brakes.
I like that the 8.8 offers a lot more selection on types of differential traction devices than the Super Dana 35. However, if the Super Dana 35 has the type of locker you want, then that's great.
Me, personally, I went with the Ford 8.8 over a Super Dana 35. And I had to pay $400 for the 8.8 axle itself, plus the Artec Truss. But part of my decision was factored into preferring an Eaton TruTrac over a locker due to winter driving and budget. True lockers perform better in most other scenarios, so you can't always make a decision based on what someone else did, as their reasons for doing so may be different.
I wanted to find a Dana 44 as my #1 choice, but it was insanely difficult to find in my area, unless I wanted to pay top price at ECGS.
I went with an 8.8 and Artec truss myself. The previous owner of your 8.8 MAY have set it up (welded the Artec truss) for a proper driveline angle, taking care of a few problems along the way. If he welded it at the wrong angle... That's a lot to cut off.
Some drawbacks of the 8.8 are less clearance (never mattered for me), narrower track (matters if you want to ever outboard rear shocks), Offest pinion (never mattered for me).
Has its pluses too, like cost, strength, disc brakes. Fouledplugs and Sunder pretty much nailed it.
Some drawbacks of the 8.8 are less clearance (never mattered for me), narrower track (matters if you want to ever outboard rear shocks), Offest pinion (never mattered for me).
Has its pluses too, like cost, strength, disc brakes. Fouledplugs and Sunder pretty much nailed it.
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