97 Wrangler - Transmission Crossmember Bolts / Attachment to Frame

[Vali Jo]

Bear with me, I am a do-it-myself kind of person, but I am NOT a mechanic so I am continually learning.
Original owner of a '97 Sport, 4.0 L - 5 speed AX15 transmission 279K miles
Just dropped the skid plate (transmission cross member) so I could change out the clutch. Working on getting it put back together and it appears that a couple of the bolts (or the related nutserts) are stripped out.
I have combed the forum and watched any video I could find but I need more help.

1. I have purchased a replacement nutsert (from blackmagicbrakes.com @mrblaine ) but the original bolt doesn't appear to fit (1/2" - 12 x 1 1/2"). Do I need to purchase a different size bolt or with the age of the bolts should I just buy new ones?
2. If I need to just purchase new ones, any recommendation as to a good place to purchase them outside of Extreme Terrain?
3. If I drill out the original nutsert with a 5/8" bit, will the one I purchased still fit (please say yes)? If not, How should I remove the original ones to make sure that it does/can?

I have attached some photos for reference. Any other recommendation for me in my attempt to get my girl back on the road would be welcomed.

 

[macleanflood]

Odds are someone lost the originals years ago and jammed in whatever they had with a big fing impact gun.

Ergo your problem!

My 97 had 1" square tube to space down the skid plate. The bolts were cheap junk and rust seized. No amount of heat, break free, kroil or snake oil would get them free.

Cut the square tube in half... ripped out the bolts and most of the nutserts, replaced them with BMB and antisieze...zero issues since!

-Mac

 

[bbaldwin237]

Your '97 should have SAE 1/2-13 bolts. Did you ensure you ordered the correct nutserts for the 1987-2002? In 2003 they went to a metric 12mm bolt. I also have a 97 and my hardware went right into the replacements I bought from Blaine.

As for removal, a grinder worked for me.

 

[mrblaine]

Your '97 should have SAE 1/2-13 bolts. Did you ensure you ordered the correct nutserts for the 1987-2002? In 2003 they went to a metric 12mm bolt. I also have a 97 and my hardware went right into the replacements I bought from Blaine.

As for removal, a grinder worked for me.

She has the correct nutsert, it is silver, the metric versions are dirty gold color.

 

[mrblaine]

Bear with me, I am a do-it-myself kind of person, but I am NOT a mechanic so I am continually learning.
Original owner of a '97 Sport, 4.0 L - 5 speed AX15 transmission 279K miles
Just dropped the skid plate (transmission cross member) so I could change out the clutch. Working on getting it put back together and it appears that a couple of the bolts (or the related nutserts) are stripped out.
I have combed the forum and watched any video I could find but I need more help.

1. I have purchased a replacement nutsert (from blackmagicbrakes.com @mrblaine ) but the original bolt doesn't appear to fit (1/2" - 12 x 1 1/2"). Do I need to purchase a different size bolt or with the age of the bolts should I just buy new ones?

You have a bunch of pics, how many of the nutserts have issues?

1. If I need to just purchase new ones, any recommendation as to a good place to purchase them outside of Extreme Terrain?

We have plenty of bolts.

1. If I drill out the original nutsert with a 5/8" bit, will the one I purchased still fit (please say yes)? If not, How should I remove the original ones to make sure that it does/can?

Yes, it will fit but you'll still need a way to get the flange removed from the frame by grinding the 2 spot welds very carefully. Your frame has already lost some thickness, don't need it to lose any more.

I have attached some photos for reference. Any other recommendation for me in my attempt to get my girl back on the road would be welcomed.

View attachment 500160

View attachment 500161

View attachment 500162

View attachment 500163

View attachment 500167

 

[Vali Jo]

You have a bunch of pics, how many of the nutserts have issues?

We have plenty of bolts.

Yes, it will fit but you'll still need a way to get the flange removed from the frame by grinding the 2 spot welds very carefully. Your frame has already lost some thickness, don't need it to lose any more.

[You have a bunch of pics, how many of the nutserts have issues?]
Only 2 (that I know of), I can hand-thread all of the other bolts and they stay in. However, it is a '97 and purchased in OH and driven /stayed in IL/MO area (LOTS OF SALT). Since the skid-plate/crossmember is off, I am wondering if I wouldn't be money ahead doing the work now to replace all of them or use what I have and replace as needed??

[We have plenty of bolts.]
Are they hardened?
The "two-piece" configuration is intimidating (based on the photo I saw) to match the "conical seat" detail.

[Yes, it will fit but you'll still need a way to get the flange removed from the frame by grinding the 2 spot welds very carefully. Your frame has already lost some thickness, don't need it to lose any more.]
That is great to know (as far as fit), Sadly, I am seeing the section loss on the frame and realizing I need to find someone with a shop that allows "sweat equity" work so when I need to do a "frame off"

 

[mrblaine]

[You have a bunch of pics, how many of the nutserts have issues?]
Only 2 (that I know of), I can hand-thread all of the other bolts and they stay in. However, it is a '97 and purchased in OH and driven /stayed in IL/MO area (LOTS OF SALT). Since the skid-plate/crossmember is off, I am wondering if I wouldn't be money ahead doing the work now to replace all of them or use what I have and replace as needed??

Whatever will work best. Try fixing the one that needs it and then see if you want to tackle the rest. I'd lean towards not messing with any that are in working condition.

[We have plenty of bolts.]
Are they hardened?

Yes, they are all grade 8 for SAE and class 10.9 for the metric versions.

The "two-piece" configuration is intimidating (based on the photo I saw) to match the "conical seat" detail.

It is a conical washer we have made to convert a normal bolt to fit in the conical seat in the skid plate. Just slide the washer onto the bolt with the flat side against the head, not hard to do at all.

[Yes, it will fit but you'll still need a way to get the flange removed from the frame by grinding the 2 spot welds very carefully. Your frame has already lost some thickness, don't need it to lose any more.]
That is great to know (as far as fit), Sadly, I am seeing the section loss on the frame and realizing I need to find someone with a shop that allows "sweat equity" work so when I need to do a "frame off"

Rather than quote with brackets copy and paste, put the cursor at the end of a sentence from me that you want to address and hit enter. That will pop down and leave a window with what I posted with my username above. Type under that.

 

[Vali Jo]

Whatever will work best. Try fixing the one that needs it and then see if you want to tackle the rest. I'd lean towards not messing with any that are in working condition.

Yes, they are all grade 8 for SAE and class 10.9 for the metric versions.

It is a conical washer we have made to convert a normal bolt to fit in the conical seat in the skid plate. Just slide the washer onto the bolt with the flat side against the head, not hard to do at all.

Rather than quote with brackets copy and paste, put the cursor at the end of a sentence from me that you want to address and hit enter. That will pop down and leave a window with what I posted with my username above. Type under that.

Thank you for all of the help! I will be ordering soon.

 

[LONGJP2]

Thank you for all of the help! I will be ordering soon.

Do you have a jack under the transmission?

 

[Vali Jo]

Do you have a jack under the transmission?

Yes, a scissor jack.