The rubicon express trackbar with their weld on bracket are on my dads Jeep and have always fit really well too. With and without a body lift at 4” lift.
A comparison of building for 33s and 35s
- Thread starter Irun
- Start date
The rubicon express trackbar with their weld on bracket are on my dads Jeep and have always fit really well too. With and without a body lift at 4” lift.
@Irun, since your original post mentions this is a daily driver AND trail rig, and mention is made of safe handling and acceleration, then what do you think about the need for a TCase with 4:1 or better ratio? I know that was a game changer for technical rock crawling for me. Helped immensely with control/handling.
I was going to add, "unless you have an auto," and then we're back to needing upgrades in the brake department with a 2.72:1!
With the manual 5:1 or lower would be ideal as well as a hand throttle. Would a hand throttle be a good addition for every 33" or 35" build? I know I love mine for control, which is in the handling department.
OP
That is a depends on where you wheel. Up here 4:1 can be a detriment where more often you need wheel speed.
OP
This is the main reason I like a Rubicrawler mated to a 241. Having the ability to switch between 2.72:1 and 4:1 is something I do routinely where I wheel. You just have to be careful to not use the 10.88:1. All that does is break stuff. If however you're running a 231, a Rubicrawler offers no real value, from my perspective. Much like the 241's 10.88:1, the 231's 7.40 is useless and will also break parts. That said, it's a upgrade I'd not recommend, due to the cost/benefit.
If you run a manual then those low ratios can certainly be of benefit as long as you drive appropriately. But this is probably better to be in its own thread.
I've thought about it in terms of just not having enough useful gearing between 4H and 4L but curious, where's that threshold? Seems like 4:1 is probably overrepresented in breakages vs 2.72, but I don't have the data to put it squarely on the extra torque rather than for example, the way they are used.
So far, the most ideal set up that we have figured out is the Rubi Crawler with the Atlas 2.0. Very few will do it but it does exactly what we need without ratio overlap that negates a large chunk of the money spent on the set up.
With a 231 case and the crawler, you wind up with 1-1, 2.72-1 2.72-1, and 7.4-1. None of those are very good in most instances.
With a 241, you get 1-1, 2.72-1, 4-1, and the really silly 10.88-1. So, a bit of change for less than great, but good.
The Crawler with a 2.0 Atlas gets you 1-1, 2.0-1, 2.72-1, and a very good 5.44-1.
Unfortunately that is based around the 42RLE for most of it since you can't get it behind the manuals without going to the 4 speed Atlas which adds length most can't deal with. The reason I keep mentioning it as the Crawler / is because you can add the Atlas 2.0 to the Rubicrawler if you already have it installed.
One important consideration for me is seat height. I have to be able to get in and out easily for a daily driver. That dictated 33's and 3" lift.
Its funny this is being discussed today...last night I was dreaming/Planning the next stages of my build and looking through old t-cases that have a 2:1 ratio. The old Spicer 20 does...I don't know how that packages in a TJ...I know it would need a flip kit, and just like junkyard axles, it probably doesn't pencil out if you value your time even a little bit.
OP
At more than $5k for the pair, I can see why very few would go this route. Given the cost of a used 241 now, if I were going to need multiple ratios, I don't see other options that don't require a lot of work in terms of parts and time.
If you are running a manual then a NW Fabworks Blackbox I https://northwestfab.com/products/blackbox-i to an Early Bronco 20 with a Wild Horses big shaft kit https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produ...ete_Kit_Assembled/Bronco_Dana20_Transfer_Case gets you in the 231 with SYE length range. The EB20 has the same problem as the Dana 300 in that it does not work so hot with some autos.
I have only your pads on my jeep with 35’s and a manual. I have not once thought I needed more stopping power. I can very easily lock them up with no issue, or throw people into the dash with out warning!
I’m sure the manual helps me a lot on trails in 4low. I do feel like I have one of the better braking jeeps for unknown reasons, as I have read that some jeeps just stop better than others.
In no way am I saying good brakes are not important, just in my case the pads seem to work for me
One thing I'll say about going to the Big Brake Kit after the BMB pads is that the brake modulation is much nicer. And the braking ability is improved even more so. But the modulation doesn't get mentioned very often.
And an automatic helps more on the trails than a manual.
One thing I'll say about going to the Big Brake Kit after the BMB pads is that the brake modulation is much nicer. And the braking ability is improved even more so. But the modulation doesn't get mentioned very often.
And an automatic helps more on the trails than a manual.
Only if you are a poor driver! I kid! I kid! I would prefer if I had an auto, but I don’t do to bad with a manual…