Nice, I thought about making and adaptor ring as well. But I didn't know what do use. I do have a buddy with a 3d printer. I should have asked him about it. Do you still have the printer details?
Aftermarket subwoofer replacement for factory subwoofer?
- Thread starter JGil
- Start date
Darsmith
TJ Enthusiast
I'll be in touch if I need it. I'll try a couple other things first. Thank you.
If you have the skillet to 3D print a new housing to hold an 8" woofer that would be amazing.
How did you mound this sub to the floor? Did it come with a little bracket deal or did you fab something yourself?
First I had to figure out precisely where the sub would sit in relation to the console. I then attached Velcro at both ends and placed it in position on the floor. The Velcro not only keeps it in place but it also isolates it from the floor so there's no rattling. With this sub there isn't any wiggle room front to back once the console is in place.
Darsmith
TJ Enthusiast
I've thought about it for a while and may try later this year to design something up. I too would like to put in an 8" subwoofer in the console.
I had a 8" box built the old school way, for my Tuffy center console. If you create something it would sell all day here as an 8" is that much nicer than a 6.75", for a woofer.
itsmitchmanson
New Member
itsmitchmanson
New Member
Thank you for the helpful pictures! How did you go about modifying the center console over the Sound Ordnance sub?
Thanks in advance
-Mitch
With console removed I popped out the rivets from the inside to remove the tray then simply set it on top with some adhesive weather stripping on the bottom so that it wouldn't rattle. It stays put well and is removable to check connections or stash something slightly out of sight.
itsmitchmanson
New Member
I ended up drilling through the rivets and putting the tray on top as well. I have not used the weather stripping, but that would be a good addition if I do notice it rattling.
Thanks for your help!!
-Mitch
Hey-O! I was just looking at this speaker on Amazon thinking it would be a nicer fit than the OEM and Quadratec drop-in. Only thing is it's single coil but that just means you use one set of wires. I called Crutchfield and asked about Bi-amping the factory amp - they told me it would be fine. Basically just use one wire from each side and cap the unused wires. Rudimentary picture below showing how it would be wired.
I haven't pulled the trigger yet but was wondering how you got it to fit seeing as you mentioned it's not 100%.
*edit* - After taking a closer look at the pictures of the sub, I see what you meant by it not being an exact fit. Looks like you have to drill some pilot holes which is no big deal. Placed an order and bought foam tape to make sure everything is properly sealed.
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IT looks like that's a dual-voicecoil woofer in your diagram, but the amazon page seems to indicate it's a single voicecoil woofer. If it's a dual, you need to wire both voicecoils, either in series or parallel. This is actually why they're designed that way: with a dual 2 ohm voicecoil, wiring them in series = 4 ohms, parallel will give you a 1 ohm load.
No problem, hooking up only 1 VC of a dual VC driver is a pretty common error.
The factory amp only has two wires and not four, you can run a single voice coil sub with no modifications.
Edit: for what it's worth I don't think dual voice coil subs should be run on two channels, they will fight each other, the dual configurations is just to allow you to run the speaker series or parallel to give you different impeadence options but whatever floats your boat
Edit: for what it's worth I don't think dual voice coil subs should be run on two channels, they will fight each other, the dual configurations is just to allow you to run the speaker series or parallel to give you different impeadence options but whatever floats your boat
Every video and picture I see of the factory sub shows two terminals (one on each side) with a total of four wires being used (two for each coil).